97 civic ex auto wont rev over 1000 rpm barely runs

[Ej8civicex]

I recently purchased this 97 civic ex. Auto 177000 miles bone stock and PO have a lot of maintance records. The car was stolen and found a couple blocks away from the POs house and was running like this.

The car started up right away but wouldn't rev over 1000 rpm and the engine would shake pretty bad.
I changed the timing belt and the car won't stay running unless I hold the key in start for 3-4 seconds. But it runs the same.
Tps and map aren't switched.
I changed out the throttle body and tested the tps.
I cleaned the throttle body and iacv.
I got new ngk plug wires
I changed the timing belt
I tested the icm and had battery voltage on the black/yellow and white/blue but only had 6.15 volts on the yellow/green wire.

I've read that wire should have 10 volts.
Could the wiring under the dash affect the distributor wiring.
Anything would help ha I'm lost

 

[Ej8civicex]

I think the ignition switch is at fault for that problem and I have no cels. Could the icm or coil be producing a low voltage that would cause this?

 

[Ej8civicex]

I thought I saw a post or two about that being a clue to a bad ignition switch.
Yes the cel works it comes on with the key on and goes off after two seconds.
Only codes it had were abs 61 and 64

 

[Ej8civicex]

Post the CEL codes.

You have spark if the engine runs at all.



Are you suggesting the starter doesn't crank the engine? Or that the engine does not fire up immediately?

The car cranks right away and fires but barely and if I release the key the car dies. But if I hold the key in start for 2-3 seconds after it starts cranking it will stay running. But again barely runs and shakes.
Sorry about the bad despriction

 

[Ej8civicex]

I will check the timing tomorrow again

 

[Ej8civicex]

I used the top of the head and the back of the cams but I couldnt get my camera to get a good angle of it so I took a picture of those. I used the mark behind the crank pulley on the timing gear itself and the little arrow on the block.
And then I slid the belt on checked timing again, put lower timing cover back on and then crank pulley turned engine 6 times checked timing, 6 more times checked timing, removed cover and pulley and tightened tensionor, and repeated turning and checking timing.
Thank you for the replies and help

 

[Ej8civicex]

You need to verify the timing using the white TDC1 mark on the crank pulley.

Have you subsequently attempted to set the ignition timing with a timing gun?

If you verify the mechanical timing is correct, then triple check these:

That's the white mark on the crank pulley I used it's hard to see the lower triangle on the timing cover but it's there.
No I don't have my timing light right now, I lent it out, but full retard and advance doesn't help it to much and nowhere in between.
I will double check plug wires and all electrical connection today after work.
Along with mechanical timing.

 

[Ej8civicex]

Sounds good.

You must have triple alignment of the upper and lower sights with the white mark on the crank pulley when the cam marks are also perfectly (not close) aligned with the top of the head.

So triple alignment on the timing cover and crank pulley. Both sides of the cam are dead even with the surface of the head.



The caps not mounted but it's orientated correctly.
I was changing the coil and icm as per advice from a member on honda-tech.
I posted there as well but idk about the forum rules and posting links to other forums but it's the same thread title.

I forgot to mention that the exhaust manifold has a huge crack on the fourth cylinder.

 

[Ej8civicex]

The crack in the e. manifold is causing the engine to run very rich. Install a new one ASAP. When you do, also clean the O2 sensor with brake cleaner.

The rich condition almost surely has killed the cat. Check whether it's clogged. That can also cause power loss.

Jump the service connector or connect a code reader. The cracked e. manifold should be throwing at least CEL code P0171. If not, check whether the 7.5A hood BackUp fuse is blown.

I can't tell whether your firing order is correct. The correct firing order looks like this:

View attachment 29288

Old owner said they drove it like that for about 4-5 years with no code and passed smog.
My OBD2 scanner shows no codes but I will try the service connect for cels
I check the fuse under the hood
And if I helps the under dash fuse panel has had about half the fuses replaced with the wrong amp fuses
The firing order is the same as the diagram

 

[Ej8civicex]

The crack in the e. manifold can be officially classified as a Grand Canyon. What is required to pass smog in your state? Does your code reader indicate that all sensors are ready?

Do this:

1. Remove MAP sensor connector.
2. Turn key to ON(II).
3. Does CEL turn on and stay on?
4. If it stays on, pull code with the code reader. What code do you read?
5. Turn key to OFF for 5 minutes.
6. Plug MAP sensor connector back in.
7. Turn key to ON(II).
8. Does CEL turn on and stay on? Is the same code still retrieved with the code reader?

The crack is huge! I can see daylight through it at the right angle. I believe just o2 and cat?? I don't think evap is required until 2004.
And before while troubleshooting I unplugged the tps, and a code for that and it cleared when plugged in.
But I will do that and be right back

 

[Ej8civicex]

Map unplugged, key on (II), no cel, even after 5 minutes with the key out and cycling the key.
The cel will only come on if I start the car. Following your steps I get no cel, but if I start the car I get p01018 map high input. And after plugging it in it would not clear until I started it again.

And when trying to pull the historic fault codes I get nothing even after giving the ecu multiple cels that same day and I have never cleared the codes for this car.

 

[Ej8civicex]

so my fiancé lost the faceplate for the radio. And I don't think I have a clock.
I have a little shitty multimeter at my house I can use for basic stuff and then have a really nice one at work I can borrow if need be.

 

[Ej8civicex]

And as a note the fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 would drop to -100.1 and back during idle. I don't know much about fuel trims though

 

[Ej8civicex]

So I don't have a 7.5 fuse in my back up

And I wasn't sure if I needed the key on or off but:
Key off 12v at right side, 0v at left side

Key on 12v at right side, 4.15v at left side

 

[Ej8civicex]

Fuse replaced battery voltage on both side of the fuse with key on and off

 

[Ej8civicex]

What are the voltage readings with key OFF?

Battery voltage both sides with key off

 

[Ej8civicex]

I unplugged the map, tps, and iacv. I cycled the key and got p 1509 iacv. And after plugging them back in and cycling the key the code and light did not go away.

 

[Ej8civicex]

Got the car fully warmed up and got no codes.
Still runs terrible rpms won't even register on the tach after starting to warm up
O2 sensor 1 showed 0.0 volts and 0.6 volts at wot
And 02 sensor 2 showed 1.3 volts constant.
The car won't get out of openloop either

 

[Ej8civicex]

No it didn't blow it still has voltage on both sides.

185

Yeah slightly worse

Yes the engine runs better with the o2 sensor unplugged

 

[Ej8civicex]

I don't what happened when the video cut half the screen out it didn't do that on my phone or youtube.
When I installed the distributor I had the cap off and engine TDC to see that plug wire it was on