Car Wont start after turbo install

hundredwatt

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#1
Hey EveryBody. I Just Got My turbo installed, but My car won't start. What is the problem? All I have messed with electrically has been lengthening the Oxygen Sensor Wires. Also I no longer have an oil pressure sensor, I just have an oil line running out of where the sensor is supposed to be. Okay, also, there is some wires wrapped around the powersteering cooler, I removed them, would those keep it from starting? Sometimes before the turbo, it has done this thing where it won't start with the starter, you end up having to push it off, but that was just once in a while. what could cause this?
 

Sleeper

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#2
hear the fuel pump prime? likly be the main relay, under the dash near the hood latch opener grey/brown box
 


hundredwatt

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#3
if it is the main relay is there a way I can test it without buying a new relay? Also if the relay is bad is there a way it will start?
 

Evan.

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#4
are you throwing a CEL?

btw, you shoud hear the fuel pump come on with 2 turns of the key. Like fuel priming, if not, the main relay is shot.
 


hundredwatt

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#5
I have never noticed hearing the fuel pump before in this car, I'll listen and check, I had a Check engine light when I got the car, but I removed the bulb. LOL. It sparks fine I can see the sparks through the clear distributor cap. , I smelt gas a couple of times, also do you retard the timing by turning the distributor counterclockwise, and clockwise for advance?
Thanks
 

Evan.

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#6
I would not recommend retarding / advancing your timing via that route. Get the CEL bulb back in and diagnose.
 

hundredwatt

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#7
I did hear the fuel pump prime, how do I test for fuel rail pressure? How else are you supposed to adjust the timing? an oil presure sensor wouldn't keep me from starting would it? I think the injectors aren't firing or something. Like I said sometimes you wind up having to push it off, but I don't have it off the ramps yet, I was wanting to idle it for a bit before driving off in it. Can the wires around the powersteering cooler have anything to do with this? I removed them, but i put them back on now.
 

Evan.

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#8
If you haer it prime, you should have pressure. My best advice would be to get your CEL light bulb replaced and diagnose.
 

hundredwatt

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#9
no one around hear has an obd1 scanner, does the computer get its ground from being mounted to the body? or via the wires?
 

Evan.

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#10
to the body. An obd1 scanner is hard to come by, ive been searching for one for a while and the only one I came across was $399 bucks. I was searching in order to just erase a code im throwing since I cant fix it and theres nothing wrong. Theres afree way to do it if you replace your CEL bulb, its real easy.
 

slowhatch

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#11
sk8shorty017 said:
I would not recommend retarding / advancing your timing via that route. Get the CEL bulb back in and diagnose.
why not? ive never seen any problems with cars that retard their timing using the dizzy...
 

Sleeper

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#13
there are no OBD1 scanners for honda. you simply ground out the 2 pin service connector about the ECU thats tucked under the dash.. Removing the CEL out your car would have to be one of the dumbest moves.
 

Handlebars

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#15
if you have a solid cel, that means 1 of 3 things. the ecu is bad, the ground is bad, or the main relay is bad. check those three, and you should find your problem. check your wiring first, my main relay didnt kick over b/c i had poor wiring to my map sensor, which messed up the ground.
 

Handlebars

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#17
hundredwatt said:
i apreciate the info.
check the grounds. you should have a good ground to the thermostat housing, and then at least 2 from the engine to the chassis, one being on the tranny to the frame rail, the other from the valve cover to the drivers side frame. more is better. then, if you did a new map sensor, very carefully check those wires to see if they are crossed or are touching. if you know someone else with a civic, try that main relay and see if that works. if those fail, and you have a chipped/socketed ecu, thats probably the source of the problem.
 
#18
Handlebars said:
check the grounds. you should have a good ground to the thermostat housing, and then at least 2 from the engine to the chassis, one being on the tranny to the frame rail, the other from the valve cover to the drivers side frame. more is better. then, if you did a new map sensor, very carefully check those wires to see if they are crossed or are touching. if you know someone else with a civic, try that main relay and see if that works. if those fail, and you have a chipped/socketed ecu, thats probably the source of the problem.
x2 grounds suck.
 

hundredwatt

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#19
The Car was starting and running fine before the turbo install just once in a while it wouldn't start, and i figured out what that problem was. I took the main relay apart and there were no broken solder joints. I hear the fuel pump, I checked for spark, I've done everything I can think of. I took the dash apart and replaced the cel bulb. What else? could the turbo cause too much backpressure for it to start?
 

hundredwatt

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#20
Aparently having the hood up at night all week caused moisture to get in the distributor cap and cause corrosion. I cleaned of the contact points which were green untill i could tell they were brass again. It fired right up.
 






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