D16y8 head swap p0132

MolonLabe556

New Member
So I recently did an head swap

98 civic cx

99-00 ex head
99-00 ex intake manifold
D16y17 block
P29 75mm piston
High flow oil pump
98 cx original engine harness
Vtec, knock sensor & IACV wired correctly
ECM - 37820-P2P-A12 M/T (99-00 w/air injection)
1320 RMF header (no cat)
Passwordjdm power chamber intake

During installation of vacuum hose I accidentally broke one of the pipe on the FUEL INJECTION AIR CONTROL VALVE which connects to the intake pipe to the intake manifold. So I temporarily plugged the hose with a 12mm bolt. And so I started the vehicle.

The car runs and seems to idle fine
But after awhile(5mins) DTC sets and I get a P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

I have checked if the wires are plugged in correctly and checked for continuity on the harness pins to the ecu connector pins and I do. I can’t remember the voltage I was getting while it was idling. Prior to this swap I replaced that sensor and just reused it.

Now I’m thinking could the air control valve that I broke cause this DTC to set or the my actual o2 b1s1 is way too close to the exhaust port as in, I need to move it further down the exhaust manifold? Current location right now is about 12” from the exhaust port of the head, unlike the oem which is down below the motor. And if I was to use a o2 defouler, could that help?








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MolonLabe556

New Member
OBD2A-OBD2B conversion harness?



Use a defouler to solve a primary O2 sensor problem? :shock:

View attachment 29780
Solved the o2 problem I moved the sensor further down with a defouler.
BUT NOW...
Fan isn’t working as of right now even when I get to normal operating temperature or above. I’ve bench tested the fan and it works fine by removing the connector and directly powering it. I’ve checked the relay by swapping it with the a/c magnetic clutch and he a/c turns on and off. I’ve jump the female connector on the thermo fan switch to see if the wire/harness has continuity and the fan immediately turns on.

My question is, i saw online that there’s suppose to be another fuse under the dash... iff that #17 fuse under the dash is busted would jumping the female connector on the thermo switch make the fan not work? Or would it still find ground on g201 and run the fan?

I’m using a mishimoto thermo switch & fan with blox radiator.

Oh and I did use a Obd2a-Obd2b jumper harness.


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MolonLabe556

New Member
Of finally I actually got to it right now. Took off the defouler as its suppose to be. Current voltage after 3k rpm and fan kicking on. I can actually see the voltage fluctuate from .29 to .80
 


MolonLabe556

New Member
That code came back again but wasn’t sure if maybe when I was trying to bleed the coolant and keeping it at steady 3k till 200 Fahrenheit for the fan to turn on. I hope I didn’t overheat the car.

So for my cooling system I found that one of the terminal on the harness got pushed in slightly probably not making full contact with the thermo switch.
Not sure if it’s normal for the temp to stay around 190 on idle.

Had 2 problems going on at the same time. Thank god the fan switch worked and got the primary to fluctuate smoothly compared to last night when it was spiking without the defouler.
Hopefully I get this car running this weekend so I can finally see if it’s gonna overheat or have any other issues.

Thanks for the help. Appreciate it.
I’ll give some update to what happens next.


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