dyno disaster..help!



myinca

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#1
my friend has a '00 civic ex. he dyno'd his car with it stock...then went back to dyno after a few bolt-ons....he put an AEM V2 intake, AEM Pullies, Greddy header, and Greddy Catback....well there was a problem with the latest dyno...and this is where i need help. Im not to familiar with all the Air/fuel stuff but the guy said he was running rich...A/f was 12.1 when should be 13.1.....he said it was fine at part throttle tho 14.7.....what is the ideal A/F at WOT? and what is causing this problem...how to fix it? he did nothing but those bolt ons. thanks for the help. here's the dyno sheets...

STOCK RUN



AFTER BOLT-ONS




a lil treat....623whp stang on the dyno before us

 


MasterShake

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#2
try a fuel pressure regulator. and i heard some where that adding those things make it run rich, not too sure bout that tho.
 

myinca

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#3
we asked but they said that that would not work( he has one in his trunk but they explained y it wouldnt work didnt understand to much of it tho) but is this a common result? shouldnt this not be happening with just basic boltons?
 


JL

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#4
You need to run some type of engine management like Hondata, AEM, etc to tune the fuel map. I don't know why such a thing would happen but I'd run it on the dyno a couple more times to be sure.
 

myinca

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#5
yeah thats what we were thinking, hes goin with hondata...but we were just curious bc boltons shouldnt be doin it....it ran the same 3 times on the dyno
 

nightryder99

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#6
hondata is a good system but too expensive for the actual use ...unless he's going to turbo i see no point in throwing money like that

on this site....you can find info on a stock ECU ( the 92-95 civic hatch Si) which can be modified to be reprogrammable..this is something I'm looking into for myself aswell because I just got a intake manifold ...and I'm running to bloody rich myself ( d16y8 )

look into the P28 ....it will cost you half the money ..for almost ( if not the same ) result for this app.
 

oc_civic

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#7
actually because hes only running rich at some rpms a vafc (correctly tuned) would be ideal.. as you can make adjustments per 500 rpm range.. the reason a fuel preasure regulator will not work is it makes ONE solid adjustment.. so say you turn down preasure a bit to lean out the rich areas.. you are now having less fuel preasure across the board thus running lean where you used to run stoichiometric.. a vafc would actually probably be a good fix if he was looking to run perfectly across the entire rpm range..
 

myinca

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#9
arite thanks guys i will relay the info.....what exactly is a vafc..who sells them and how much we lookin at? thanks
 

rei

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#11
myinca said:
arite thanks guys i will relay the info.....what exactly is a vafc..who sells them and how much we lookin at? thanks
apexi makes it.. it can be found all over the net..
 

nightryder99

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#12
oc_civic said:
actually because hes only running rich at some rpms a vafc (correctly tuned) would be ideal.. as you can make adjustments per 500 rpm range.. the reason a fuel preasure regulator will not work is it makes ONE solid adjustment.. so say you turn down preasure a bit to lean out the rich areas.. you are now having less fuel preasure across the board thus running lean where you used to run stoichiometric.. a vafc would actually probably be a good fix if he was looking to run perfectly across the entire rpm range..
yea but wouldn't the P28 be the better choice??
a VAFC runs for 300 bucks...a modified ECU 100$... + harness 75$ + tune 100$
it would cost you the same price ..tax included than a full modified ecu which will be capable of precise maping of torque/fuel /air/hp maps.... giveing a more precise result

atleast that's how I see it
 

myinca

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#13
ok i see...no the car is not auto...and the hondata he was looking at said 200-300 and he seemed like he wanted to go with that...ill let yall know if we ever find out what the cause of the problem was
 




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