Well People have been buggin me that pix that i had on my old thread didnt work very well so this weekend i was doing the headgasket change and i decided to do the write up once again and throw in the timing belt and water pump. So here it goes enjoy.
BTW I do Take Paypal donations for my website
For more of my write ups check out
Http://www.JDMLyfeStyle.com
Tools needed
Good Torqe Wrench
Rachet with 10, 12, 14, 19 sockets
12mm wrench
Needle nose pliars or channel locks for removing coolant hoses
Flat head screw driver
Step 1
Pull your car onto a level solid service. would not recommend doing this in a gravel driveway. Be sure that your E-Brake Is Engaged. also i put blocks behind the rear tires.
step 2
Jack up the car and place the jackstands in the spot shown.BTW look how straight that damn exhaust is
Step 3
Remove the Negative Battery Terminal. I would do this when doing any work under the hood.
Step 4
Pop the Cap off the Radiator (Do not remove cap if Engine is still hot) Pull the plug on the radiator to flush all the fluid out of the cooling system. Put in a appropriate container and dispose of it properly
Step 5
Remove the 12mm bolts holding on your header and take the header off the car. remove the bolts holding it on to the cat. In my case i just have an exhaust clamp on to be able to remove it quickly to run open header.
Step 6
Take a 19mm rachet and remove the freeze plug located on the front of the block. this will get all of the coolant out from the water jackets
Step 7
Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. pull it up as high as you can to get all of the coolant out(picture 1)
while your in that area unplug the distributor connector.
Also remove the coolant hose going into the bottom of the intake manifold (picture 2)
Step 8
unplug the following things
Upper radiator hose
other coolant hose going into the side of the head
water temperature sensor
Vtec Solenoid
lol and i forget what the other 2 are but u see the red dots
Step 9
Time to get ready to take the intake manifold off. but before we can do that we have to remove a few things
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body. and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding it to the intake manifold
take off the vaccum line in the front of the manifold. u will see the
take off the vaccum line on the far right back of the manifold.
take off the coolant line that goes to the IACV
unpluge the map sensor, Tps sensor, IACV sensor
Take off your Fuel return line from your Fuel pressure regulator
remove the fuel line that is connected to the Fuel filter. be sure not to loose the washers!!!!. place the end of the fuel line into a sandwich baggy and put another baggy around it and zip tie so you do not spill fuel everwhere.
Step 10.
You do not have to do this if you are not getting the head resurfaced.
use a 12 mm wrench and remove the bolts holding on the intake manifold.
Step 11
remove the spark plug wires and remove the 10mm Valve cover bolts and remove the Vent tube going from your Valve cover to your Intake.
Step 12
This is where it gets fun
Be sure the engine is at TDC on the cams and crank. Line up the white line on the crank pulley with the timing mark on your lower timing cover.
be sure the Cams lines are lined up straight from each other and the cam gears are marked up
Step 13
take a 14mm socket and release the tension on the tensioner. that is located in the lower timing cover right above the crank pulley
step 14.
remove the timing belt. be sure not to jerk it around. you dont wanna mess up the alignment of the teeth.
step 15
I would recommend doing this step as well
take a 19mm and remove the oil pan bolt and let the oil drain out. Since you are doing this might as well change the oil.
Step 16
take a 12mm and remove the 3 bolts holding on the distributor
step 17
Now take a 10mm (yellow) and 12mm (red) and remove the cam cap cover bolts
you need to do this in the following sequence on the 12 mm bolts
1 7 9 5 3
4 6 10 8 2
step 18
now gently pry up the cam caps and remove the cam seals..IMPORTANT YOU MUST KEEP THE CAM CAPS IN THE SAME ORDER!!!!!!!!
Step 19
remove the cams. place them in a plastic wrap and keep a light layer of oil on them put them somewhere will they will not be disturbed.
step 20
Remove the 12mm cylinder head bolts in the following sequence (Or a 1/2" 12point if you have ARP Head Studs.)
1 7 9 5 3
4 6 10 8 2
Step 21
remove the Head. i was doing this solo coming off head studs so this is the best way i can get the head off.
Step 22
use a lint free cloth...i used a microfiber cloth and use some sore of cleaning agent.. in this case i used Sea foam deep creep. and clean the block surface and inspect for any damagaes.
Step 23 (optional but recommended)
Take the head to a machine shop to have it inspected for warpage and have it resurfaced
In my case i shaved off .04"
Now its time to put it back together
Be sure to install the headgasket right. line up all the ports and waterjackets
you it is recommended that you get new head bolts. I did not. i went with ARP Head stud kit $105 from prostreetonline.com. Honda dealer wanted $140 for the 10 head bolts (1 time use only)
BTW I do Take Paypal donations for my website
For more of my write ups check out
Http://www.JDMLyfeStyle.com
Tools needed
Good Torqe Wrench
Rachet with 10, 12, 14, 19 sockets
12mm wrench
Needle nose pliars or channel locks for removing coolant hoses
Flat head screw driver
Step 1
Pull your car onto a level solid service. would not recommend doing this in a gravel driveway. Be sure that your E-Brake Is Engaged. also i put blocks behind the rear tires.
step 2
Jack up the car and place the jackstands in the spot shown.BTW look how straight that damn exhaust is
Step 3
Remove the Negative Battery Terminal. I would do this when doing any work under the hood.
Step 4
Pop the Cap off the Radiator (Do not remove cap if Engine is still hot) Pull the plug on the radiator to flush all the fluid out of the cooling system. Put in a appropriate container and dispose of it properly
Step 5
Remove the 12mm bolts holding on your header and take the header off the car. remove the bolts holding it on to the cat. In my case i just have an exhaust clamp on to be able to remove it quickly to run open header.
Step 6
Take a 19mm rachet and remove the freeze plug located on the front of the block. this will get all of the coolant out from the water jackets
Step 7
Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. pull it up as high as you can to get all of the coolant out(picture 1)
while your in that area unplug the distributor connector.
Also remove the coolant hose going into the bottom of the intake manifold (picture 2)
Step 8
unplug the following things
Upper radiator hose
other coolant hose going into the side of the head
water temperature sensor
Vtec Solenoid
lol and i forget what the other 2 are but u see the red dots
Step 9
Time to get ready to take the intake manifold off. but before we can do that we have to remove a few things
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body. and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding it to the intake manifold
take off the vaccum line in the front of the manifold. u will see the
take off the vaccum line on the far right back of the manifold.
take off the coolant line that goes to the IACV
unpluge the map sensor, Tps sensor, IACV sensor
Take off your Fuel return line from your Fuel pressure regulator
remove the fuel line that is connected to the Fuel filter. be sure not to loose the washers!!!!. place the end of the fuel line into a sandwich baggy and put another baggy around it and zip tie so you do not spill fuel everwhere.
Step 10.
You do not have to do this if you are not getting the head resurfaced.
use a 12 mm wrench and remove the bolts holding on the intake manifold.
Step 11
remove the spark plug wires and remove the 10mm Valve cover bolts and remove the Vent tube going from your Valve cover to your Intake.
Step 12
This is where it gets fun
Be sure the engine is at TDC on the cams and crank. Line up the white line on the crank pulley with the timing mark on your lower timing cover.
be sure the Cams lines are lined up straight from each other and the cam gears are marked up
Step 13
take a 14mm socket and release the tension on the tensioner. that is located in the lower timing cover right above the crank pulley
step 14.
remove the timing belt. be sure not to jerk it around. you dont wanna mess up the alignment of the teeth.
step 15
I would recommend doing this step as well
take a 19mm and remove the oil pan bolt and let the oil drain out. Since you are doing this might as well change the oil.
Step 16
take a 12mm and remove the 3 bolts holding on the distributor
step 17
Now take a 10mm (yellow) and 12mm (red) and remove the cam cap cover bolts
you need to do this in the following sequence on the 12 mm bolts
1 7 9 5 3
4 6 10 8 2
step 18
now gently pry up the cam caps and remove the cam seals..IMPORTANT YOU MUST KEEP THE CAM CAPS IN THE SAME ORDER!!!!!!!!
Step 19
remove the cams. place them in a plastic wrap and keep a light layer of oil on them put them somewhere will they will not be disturbed.
step 20
Remove the 12mm cylinder head bolts in the following sequence (Or a 1/2" 12point if you have ARP Head Studs.)
1 7 9 5 3
4 6 10 8 2
Step 21
remove the Head. i was doing this solo coming off head studs so this is the best way i can get the head off.
Step 22
use a lint free cloth...i used a microfiber cloth and use some sore of cleaning agent.. in this case i used Sea foam deep creep. and clean the block surface and inspect for any damagaes.
Step 23 (optional but recommended)
Take the head to a machine shop to have it inspected for warpage and have it resurfaced
In my case i shaved off .04"
Now its time to put it back together
Be sure to install the headgasket right. line up all the ports and waterjackets
you it is recommended that you get new head bolts. I did not. i went with ARP Head stud kit $105 from prostreetonline.com. Honda dealer wanted $140 for the 10 head bolts (1 time use only)