For Experts: my boosted car is over heating

got traction

i rock the sohc
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i did mine at 90 because 60 seemed way too low
 

sohclubkid

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i too have a vitara build and i just spent the last year and a half dealing with overheating problems. So my advice is to get ARPs and torque down using the correct pattern and torque them to 75-80 ft/lbs. ARP is going to tell you to do it at 60 but that s**t is too low. I blew 3 headgaskets at 60 and havent had a problem at 80.
exactly.
the inital torque should be 60ft/lbs in the correct sequential pattern, then you should re-torque them to 80ft/lbs in the same pattern.


DO NOT re-tighten your old headbolts! get new ones or preferably ARP head-studs. use the pattern below for the tightening pattern.
 


D16Y6

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back again, I searched over spare parts in my place but no body has ARP studs. In my country I have to import racing parts from international sellers :( too bad
guys i need to know, should I replace bolts or studs? because replacing studs means I have to pull the whole engine out!!! correct me if im wrong.
Is there any other brand I can use in absence of ARP bolts, I mean I can use new OEM bolts or other? and the tourq will be diffrent than ARP?
one last thing, In tourq sequence I noticed step 3 and 4 are the same for bolt 1 and 2! why?
Thank you for providng tourqe sequence it will help me to do things right.
 

Gonzo

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You dont have topull the whole engine. you can just take the head off ( since you have to already due to a blown headgasket) at that time you can just screw in the headbolts and your set. New head bolts will stretch from boost, not just from being being used multiple times. The torque sequesnce just goes back and forth across the head, starting at the middle. Aluminum tends to warp and this is how you prevent that.
 


TiiM iiS l3eAsT

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is your radiator fan kicking on ??

burp the radiator

switch to arp headstuds...
 

sohclubkid

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back again, I searched over spare parts in my place but no body has ARP studs. In my country I have to import racing parts from international sellers :( too bad
guys i need to know, should I replace bolts or studs? because replacing studs means I have to pull the whole engine out!!! correct me if im wrong.
Is there any other brand I can use in absence of ARP bolts, I mean I can use new OEM bolts or other? and the tourq will be diffrent than ARP?
one last thing, In tourq sequence I noticed step 3 and 4 are the same for bolt 1 and 2! why?
Thank you for providng tourqe sequence it will help me to do things right.
you might be able to get NEW head bolts, but they arent made for the stress of boost, and you might end up with head lift again. i say order the ARP studs and save yourself the headache.

You dont have topull the whole engine. you can just take the head off ( since you have to already due to a blown headgasket) at that time you can just screw in the headbolts and your set. New head bolts will stretch from boost, not just from being being used multiple times. The torque sequesnce just goes back and forth across the head, starting at the middle. Aluminum tends to warp and this is how you prevent that.
like Gonzo said, you can install them with the motor still in the car... just remove the bolts pull the head off, install the ARP headstuds, replace your headgasket with a new one, put the head back on and torque the ARP nuts down in the correct pattern.
 

D16Y6

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ok, refer me to any ebay seller who sell arp head studs and nuts and metal head gasket. i will order now to save time.
 

sohclubkid

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ok, refer me to any ebay seller who sell arp head studs and nuts and metal head gasket. i will order now to save time.
which motor do you have? D16z6 or D16y8?
 

D16Y6

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exactly.
the inital torque should be 60ft/lbs in the correct sequential pattern, then you should re-torque them to 80ft/lbs in the same pattern.
to make things clear, to tourqe from 60 to 80 do I need to loose the bolts? or directly tourqe it to 80?
 

sohclubkid

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dude, my block bore is 76mm which is above the stock size 75mm
I prefer seller who sell gasket and studs+bolts so I can get the item same time
well, you never stated your block had been bored...
sorry, but your going to have to search for a seller on your own... ill help you find the parts, but thats as much leg work as im gonna do man.

to make things clear, to tourqe from 60 to 80 do I need to loose the bolts? or directly tourqe it to 80?
torque them in pattern to 60ft/lbs. then go back and do the pattern again at 80ft/lbs.
 

whoopnip

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There seems to be a lot of misinformation here. Getting rid of bubbles in the cooling system is called bleeding. Here is the proper procedure.

RonJ said:
Top off the radiator and reservoir with coolant and then bleed the cooling system.


This procedure may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below


 

AE Motoring

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now that you found out the problem with the studs and gasket, after replacing them, you should be good to go.

but also after replacing everything and your putting the coolant back in, follow the bleeding procedure for the coolant.
 

Gonzo

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also another note...After driving about 50-100 miles or so go back over the head studs and re check the torque. Sometimes they tend to loosen after initial torque and if they do then you will be doing the whole thing again...
 

D16Y6

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well, you never stated your block had been bored...
sorry, but your going to have to search for a seller on your own... ill help you find the parts, but thats as much leg work as im gonna do man.



torque them in pattern to 60ft/lbs. then go back and do the pattern again at 80ft/lbs.
am very sorry about that bro, let me search by my self then before buy it i will show you the item if its correct.
what i understand from your torque, is after done with 60 I have to go back loosen bolts then start with step 1,2,3,4 but in 3 and 4 i have to torque it to 80 instead of 60
 

D16Y6

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now that you found out the problem with the studs and gasket, after replacing them, you should be good to go.

but also after replacing everything and your putting the coolant back in, follow the bleeding procedure for the coolant.
definitly i will. thanks
 


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