H22 in the Ek hatch Good for D.D ?

ShlemJDM

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As some of you have H22's Are they good for every day car 1996 ek hatch ? or you can recommend me diffrent motor for Daily Driven car ? i want it to be fast so i atleast can keep up with 350z

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Civlude

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Yes they are a perfectly fine daily driver. I drive mine every day and have done so for 2 years now. As long as the swap is done right, it will be perfectly fine. Quite torquey and DEFINENTLY able to beat a 350z.
 


Jezek

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returnoftheking said:
no.....i would go with a k series, MUCH lighter then a H, lighter then a B and has way more potential
maybe he doesn't have $10,000.00 to drop on the swap..................

Anyway...

I have the h in mah 6th gen hatchie, and it's great...no complaints from me. It isn't my dd, but that's just cause I spoil her haha. It will be a GREAT dd :thumbup:
 


Jezek said:
maybe he doesn't have $10,000.00 to drop on the swap..................

Anyway...

I have the h in mah 6th gen hatchie, and it's great...no complaints from me. It isn't my dd, but that's just cause I spoil her haha. It will be a GREAT dd :thumbup:


if you are resourceful a k swap does not cost anywhere near 10k, and to PROPERLY do a H swap it WILL run him about 10k anyway so either way :roll:
 

Jezek

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returnoftheking said:
if you are resourceful a k swap does not cost anywhere near 10k, and to PROPERLY do a H swap it WILL run him about 10k anyway so either way :roll:
lol...how you gon tell me that an H swap costs 10K? lmao

:roll: to you too :laugh:
 

ShlemJDM

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What about nO p/s and no a/c is it possible to put p/s in H in my hatch ?

and K series is way too expancive for me !! 10k for the swap !!

and theirs no way that H swap going to cost 10k maximum it can run up to is 6gz with the hole swap done !

and will GSR swap going to be beter then H swap of not ?
 
Jezek said:
lol...how you gon tell me that an H swap costs 10K? lmao

:roll: to you too :laugh:


ok for starters

proper suspension setup
proper brakes
mounts
motor
mods to car to get tranny to work
proper tires to actually GET traction

EASILY 10k, dont f**k with the jedi master sun
 

Jezek

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returnoftheking said:
ok for starters

proper suspension setup
proper brakes
mounts
motor
mods to car to get tranny to work
proper tires to actually GET traction

EASILY 10k, dont f**k with the jedi master sun
LOL...I'll break it down for ya, SON.

suspension = $175 for Progress H rated springs
brakes = $350 Integra rear disc brake conversion
mounts = $400 HCP motor mounts ($100 more for front crossbar)
motor = $2200 H22a shipped
mods to car to get tranny to work ? ? ?
Traction is a problem for ANY FF with high hp/tq :roll: what happens if he gets the K lmao

$3225.00

but oh so wise jedi master, you forgot to add:

* the cable shifter/box $100.
*obd1 to obd2 wiring harness = $100
*LS radiator = $50
*New clutch/flywheel = $500

I'm sure there's more, but that just goes to show you have no idea what's really involved in an H swap into a 6th gen....

Total price = $3975...but we'll say $4000. just to be safe since some lil s**t ALWAYS will come up.

Don't f**k with the d00d with an H in his hatch, SON. ;)
 

Blazed

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:haha::haha::haha:

and to the thread starter...
not good at all...:nono:






it'd be great..:lol:...:thumbs up
 
Jezek said:
LOL...I'll break it down for ya, SON.

suspension = $175 for Progress H rated springs
brakes = $350 Integra rear disc brake conversion
mounts = $400 HCP motor mounts ($100 more for front crossbar)
motor = $2200 H22a shipped
mods to car to get tranny to work ? ? ?
Traction is a problem for ANY FF with high hp/tq :roll: what happens if he gets the K lmao

$3225.00

but oh so wise jedi master, you forgot to add:

* the cable shifter/box $100.
*obd1 to obd2 wiring harness = $100
*LS radiator = $50
*New clutch/flywheel = $500

I'm sure there's more, but that just goes to show you have no idea what's really involved in an H swap into a 6th gen....

Total price = $3975...but we'll say $4000. just to be safe since some lil s**t ALWAYS will come up.

Don't f**k with the d00d with an H in his hatch, SON. ;)

you have to be f**king kidding me, for one you half assed the radiator, you FORGOT new dampers, tires (since that IS a part of the suspension) will be necessary to SAFELY run this s**t on the street you will need at least a 205 width, preferably 225 so you can actually get some form of traction while accelerating, turning and most importantly STOPPING and $350 JUST FOR REAR DISC BRAKES is not what i mean SON, for one you WILL need to upgrade your front brakes to something CONSIDERABLY larger, preferable ITR size, you should have the rears matching for proper brake balance, and guess what ITR brake conversion IS roughly $800-$1100 just for parts (knuckles/RTAs) that doesnt include the new M/C, brake booster, prop valve and the like, your STOCK civic brakes up front dont cut the mustard going along w/ a brake ....and to be the bearer of bad news bub, but 1996 is NOT OBD-1 therfore you dont need that harness but you do need the immobilizer removed from the h22 ECU and just for your INFO the swap is $ 3600.00 Plus shipping and handling quoted from h-motors online this is in reference to a 97-98 h22a. Reverting back to OBD-1 just because the motor is cheaper is called HALF ASSING the swap. And you make me laugh thinking that the k wont kick the ass of the h powered car, lighter weight=better weight distribution which=less heat which = better braking, less tire issues to worry about which = safer ride. But if you want him to die, then i ask the OP to listen to you
 

mr_ducksauce

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if im not mistakened...the h only weighs like 60 more lbs than a b series...but i dont know how much less a k series weighs than the b series..but cant be that much.....and im pretty sure the h has more tourque than the k, so that would make up for it.........IF u had the money, K without a doubt...but if money is a concern, H would not be bad AT ALL
 
mr_ducksauce said:
if im not mistakened...the h only weighs like 60 more lbs than a b series...but i dont know how much less a k series weighs than the b series..but cant be that much.....and im pretty sure the h has more tourque than the k, so that would make up for it.........IF u had the money, K without a doubt...but if money is a concern, H would not be bad AT ALL

you are mistaken, ok for one the way you are looking at it is all wrong, think about it like this

how much more does the B weigh over the D
how much more does the H weigh over the D
how much more does the K weigh over the D

not which of the 3 is heavier then the other, looking at it from the perspective above will make you realize why the k is the best choice
 

Blazed

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well in ur own words..
to do a k swap 'properly' ur looking at a hefty price tag...
to do a h swap 'properly' ur looking at less...
because k is newer and obviously has great potential...
 
Blazed said:
well in ur own words..
to do a k swap 'properly' ur looking at a hefty price tag...
to do a h swap 'properly' ur looking at less...
because k is newer and obviously has great potential...

known fact and i am not denying it
 

Andrey

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returnoftheking said:
if you are resourceful a k swap does not cost anywhere near 10k, and to PROPERLY do a H swap it WILL run him about 10k anyway so either way :roll:
returnoftheking said:
known fact and i am not denying it
u are stupid
 

Civlude

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returnoftheking said:
you have to be f**king kidding me, for one you half assed the radiator, you FORGOT new dampers, tires (since that IS a part of the suspension) will be necessary to SAFELY run this s**t on the street you will need at least a 205 width, preferably 225 so you can actually get some form of traction while accelerating, turning and most importantly STOPPING and $350 JUST FOR REAR DISC BRAKES is not what i mean SON, for one you WILL need to upgrade your front brakes to something CONSIDERABLY larger, preferable ITR size, you should have the rears matching for proper brake balance, and guess what ITR brake conversion IS roughly $800-$1100 just for parts (knuckles/RTAs) that doesnt include the new M/C, brake booster, prop valve and the like, your STOCK civic brakes up front dont cut the mustard going along w/ a brake ....and to be the bearer of bad news bub, but 1996 is NOT OBD-1 therfore you dont need that harness but you do need the immobilizer removed from the h22 ECU and just for your INFO the swap is $ 3600.00 Plus shipping and handling quoted from h-motors online this is in reference to a 97-98 h22a. Reverting back to OBD-1 just because the motor is cheaper is called HALF ASSING the swap. And you make me laugh thinking that the k wont kick the ass of the h powered car, lighter weight=better weight distribution which=less heat which = better braking, less tire issues to worry about which = safer ride. But if you want him to die, then i ask the OP to listen to you
Now all that jibber jabbering you did is great and im glad you're super good at flexing your e-intelligence. But first and foremost; just how many H swaps have you done? Hmm...... riiiight. And how many k swaps? Hmm.... riiight. Jezek and myself have both done H swaps so we've got coniserderabley more experience then your insta-google-e-knowledge ass. You do NOT NEED to upgrade the brakes to anything larger then stock. How do i know this? Ive got stock f**kin rotors up front, bub or son, or whatever your e-thug ass wants to be called. As a matter of fact ive been running stock front rotors and stock rear drums for 2.5 years now with about 11billion passes at the track with no braking problems or issues or anything else.... so right there your credibilty already is s**t.

Another hole in your considerabley massive e-brain is the OBD-1 = half assing comment. You are retarded. If you knew anything at all about tuning you would know that the OBD-1 computers are 10 times better and quite a bit more versatile when it comes to any kind of tuning. Anyone running anything other then a full blown EMS is running an obd-1 hacked stock ECU with either crome, uberdata, or hondata programs. OBD-2 = s**t for tuning and your knowledge equals s**t to everyone else.

So 2 of your 3 super knowledgeable points = s**t. Im not even going to address your weight arguement without proper numbers. The k is probabley lighter then the H but Im not certain. And your "K will beat H" arguement is retarded without specifics. You say a K will beat an H, but in what chassis? A K in an ek chassis would get the dog s**t kicked out of it by an H in an EF chassis (simple power to weight ratio). Now if you're saying eg/k vs. eg/h then yes, the k would most definently win without a doubt, im sure.

In all, i would most definently have rather done the K, but when i was looking at swaps the K wasnt even offered yet and there was absolutely no knowledge base. If this guy has the money for the K then by all means, do it up. But an H swap can be done in an eg, completey, safely, and reliabley, for not a penny over 5k. I know becuase thats just about what I payed when all was said and done (it was actually right around 4700).

So stop quoting internet bullshit, get some experience under your belt, then talk your nonsense. Because as of now, you have zero credibility here.
 

Jezek

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^^^ now THAT'S what I'm talkin about.

[/arguing]
 


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