UPDATE: New thread: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1782397
I figured I'd give this it's own thread since I've been getting so many questions, PMs, and IMs about detailing lately.
Yes, it's a bit of reading, but that's because I'm trying to relay all the little tips I've picked up over the years.
Start up the washer and set it for warm or hot water. I then pour in enough detergent for a full load of laundry and then maybe half a cup or a full cup of Simple Green. Then add in all the towels and applicators and let them wash. Afterwards dry them like you would normally dry towels in the dryer. DON'T use fabric softener or a dryer sheet! Though this will make things feel softer to our hands, it actually inhibits the drying ability and adds particles onto the fabrics.
And here are some helpful sites I've found.
FORUMS:
www.detailcity.org
autopia.org/forum/
forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/
PROVIDERS:
www.prowaxcarolina.com
www.shiningmonkey.net
www.xocorp.com
www.wheelwax.com
www.autoint.com
I figured I'd give this it's own thread since I've been getting so many questions, PMs, and IMs about detailing lately.
Yes, it's a bit of reading, but that's because I'm trying to relay all the little tips I've picked up over the years.
Oh, and those microfiber cloths and applicators? I try to wash them all at once usually so I can make an entire load of wash. Don't wash them with towels because you'll only end up with a lot of fuzz on them from the towels.NOFX said:Here's what I would recommend:Hi there,
Sorry to bother you but I have a few questions. My dad just bought my sister a Honda, and he tells me that the previous owner smoked in the car and didn't really take car of the paint (everything under the hood is falwless). 1st question, whet can I use to take out the smoke smell. 2.) I have a friend who swears by the clay bar. I was thinking of buying one but I have no idea how it works. Do you use it like an eraser or what? How does it work? 3.)What would you recommend in order to bring the paint back to showroom condition?
Thank you in advanced.
1 - To get the smoke smell out use a product called X-O Odor Eliminator. You can get it here. http://www.xocorp.com/products.asp
2 - A clay bar is easy to use. Most commercial clay bars on the market come with a detail spray to use as a lubricant. If yours doesn't, no need to buy the detail spray. Water seems to work just as well. Just hold the hose nozzle in one hand and the bar in the other. Spritz the water or detail spray on and then rub the bar back and forth on the car. I go mostly from front to back as a habit to keep any scratches going in one direction which lessens visibility. Before you use the clay bar kneed it in your hands. When one side gets a little dirty, kneed it back around in and out of itself until you once again have a clean side.
3 - For a full detail I would of course do my regular detail (in order):
- - Take a plastic bag or two and gather all garbage and posessions out of the car. Including the stuff in the glovebox and other compartments.
- - Vacuum. Don't forget to remove the mats and also get under and along the inside and outside of the seats and in the glovebox and other compartments too.
- - Wipe down ALL interior plastics with a damp cloth. Don't forget all the plastic trim around the inside of the doors. Keep a small bucket or bowl of water with you to rinse your cloth. If you find a greasy spot (usually around the driver door) then spritz a bit of Simple Green on it to clear it up. Don't let it sit though because it mighjt discolor the trim. Also remember the rear deck.
- - Use a wet toothbrush on all the places you cant reach with the cloth. Such as the buttons on the seatbelts. Don't forget to wipe off the tops of the seat brackets too. The inside ones particuarly seem to gather crud.
- - Wash the interiors of all the glass. Don't forget a moonroof if she has one. I prefer aresol glass cleaner because it's less likely to soak the window too much. Too much liquid makes it more likely to streak. It might help to go over with a clean dry cloth later if there are any inside swirls on the glass.
- - Washing the car. Pop open the gas door and the hood before you start. If you ish to use a wheel cleaner spray it on now when the car is still dry so it works better. Start the engine up and spray the engine compartment down with Simple Green. Watch for really greasy spots. You can let it soak in for a minute before you spray it down with the highest pressure you have. Don't forget to get under the top corners, down the sides and the hinges. As long as you keep the car running there shouldn't be a problem with the engine cutting out. Don't spray directly on electronic parts for too long though just in case it forces water in.
- - Shut the hood when you're done. You can let the engine run for a bit until you're sure it's dried enough. Pop the wipers after you shut the hood too.
- - Spray the car down entirely. Don't scrub when you wash. if somethign doesn't want to come off, we can get it off later. Scrubbing scratches clearcoat! Wash from the top part of the car down. Washing the cleanest parts of the car first keeps your wash buckets cleaner and gives time for the dirtier parts to have the dirt break up. Everytime you was a bit (like for example, the right side of the roof, right windows, right side of the rear window, and then the right side of the windshield) then spray the car down again. Keeping the car wet helps it not get new waterspots. Only wash a bit of the car at a time, then rinse it off and do another part. The bottom and front of the car and right behind all the tires is usually dirtiest. I also divide the car into three main sections. From the bottom of the glass up, from the side molding up to the bottom of the glass, and then the side molding down. I find the best idea is usually to wash in this order: right side of windows and roof; rinse; left side of windows and roof; rinse; trunk and sides from the side trim up behind the doors; rinse; doors from side trim and up plus front fenders side trim and up; rinse; hood and headlights; rinse; rear or front bumper (depends which is dirtiest); rinse; other bumper; rinse; sides of car from the side molding down from the back forward (it's dirtiest right behind the wheels so get that last); rinse; wheels; rinse; exhaust; rinse entire car one more time.
- - If you don't want to clay the car you might as well dry it now. Once again, using the same front to back, back to front, motions to cut down on the directions of scratches from contaminants. I like the Absorber, but make sure you rinse it out before and after use.
- - If you chose to clay bar the car, there's no need to even dry it. get the hose OR detail spray in one hand and the clay bar in the other. Spray down a panel and then flatten one side of the clay enough. Rub the clay across the surface of the paint. I always use the same back and forth motions when I clean a car again, for those scratches (which is called marring btw). Don't rub to hard or too hard. It's just like washing a car. If you drop the clay bar, throw it out. It will be worthless if you drop it so really try not to because it contaminates it so it'd just scratch the car. A normal bar should last 2-3 cars. I do the car top to bottom to get the cleanest parts first since most cars I know are usually washed and don't just sit, which allows dust to pile up (which would make the top dirtiest).
- - After the clay barring the car should look very dirty and streaky. We're goign to get rid of that now. You're about to have the first look at the car actually clean. Get your polish, an application pad, and several microfiber cloths out. Polish removes other surface contaminat the clay might not have. It also removes some oxidation. Apply the polish to the applicator pad and apply as I told you to before. Back and forth. Do a panel at a time and let it frost over a bit. It might take some time to feel out how long you want polish to set just so you know how long to let it set and it will still not be too difficult to remove. Colder weather and hot weather makes polishing more difficult even sometimes making the polish leave greasy streaks when you remove it. Do a panel or a few and then remove the polish with the microfiber cloths. Folding the clothes in fourths helps you have a clean side when one side gets dirty. Don't forget to unfold it and use the other side of the cloth it you need to.
- - No that you're done with the polish, get the glaze out along with a clean applicator pad and microfiber cloths. Glaze will hide tiny scratches plus helps add depth to darker paint in particular. It, as the polish, puts some oils back into the aint so it looks wet again instead of dry like many cars. Apply and remove it exactly like the polish.
- - Finally the wax. Bring out the wax, applicator pad and midrofiber towels. Apply it like you did with the polish and glaze. Wax will protect all the work you just did. In fact if you don't apply wax over the glaze you might as well not glaze it since rain or sunshine can get rid of the effects of the glaze in mere hours. Once you're done make a few rounds around the car to make sur eyou got any possibly missed spots. It's not that bad to miss little swirls of product on other steps, but this is the last one involving paint so it should be totally clean.
- - Wash the exterior windows with glass cleaner to rid it of any water spots that might have just dried. You might not be able to remove old spots without polishing with fine steel wool (0000).
- - If you have mag wheels or polished exhaust, polish them with a nice automotive metal polish now. Mostly I only worry about visible metals.
- - Finish up with applying tire shine if you wish.
The car should be done now. Have fun.
- Amelia
Start up the washer and set it for warm or hot water. I then pour in enough detergent for a full load of laundry and then maybe half a cup or a full cup of Simple Green. Then add in all the towels and applicators and let them wash. Afterwards dry them like you would normally dry towels in the dryer. DON'T use fabric softener or a dryer sheet! Though this will make things feel softer to our hands, it actually inhibits the drying ability and adds particles onto the fabrics.
And here are some helpful sites I've found.
FORUMS:
www.detailcity.org
autopia.org/forum/
forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/
PROVIDERS:
www.prowaxcarolina.com
www.shiningmonkey.net
www.xocorp.com
www.wheelwax.com
www.autoint.com