Honda Newb with timing and speedometer issues

mrbigA47

New Member
My first attempt at DIY with a Honda was an engine swap. I have a 97 Civic Non-VTEC DX 5MT (D16y7) and swapped the engine from a HRV automatic (D16W1). I used the Civic's manifolds (intake/exhaust), the accessories and wiring. Car runs well with the exception of a high idle. Initially, the car would surge at idle. I replaced the IAVC sensor and the engine stopped surging. I added a new TPS sensor and adjusted the throttle cable. Idle is still high. Timing was next. I verified the cam and crank position per the timing marks. I could not get the timing marks on the balancer to line up whether I advanced or retarded timing (maybe the two engines have balancers with different timing marks). Finally, I bled the cooling system of air. The high idle is still present, just not as high as it was previously.

P.S.- I inserted a paperclip into the connection underneath the dash on the passenger side while setting timing. Nothing changed with the exception of my speedometer stopped working once I put the car back together. I verified the fuse in position #15. The fuse is good; however it is 20 vice 7.5 amp. Any help with these issues would greatly be appreciated.
 

mrbigA47

New Member
5-speed MT. I am unsure about the ECU. I will assume its OEM.
 


mrbigA47

New Member
Appreciate your candor, but NO I did not check for compatibility first. The Japanese-direct parts place I purchased the engine from and my local Honda service department assured me that it would work. Where is the service connector and how do I access it? The throttle cable has been loosened already. Once I started it aftwr changing the IAVC, the engine revved up immediately. I will change the fuse shortly. Remember I represent NEWB to its fullest in the realm of HONDA. Broke several bolts reassembling the engine after checking the timing marks because I handled the Civic as I do my El Camino. So please keep breaking down your explanations in detail
 

mrbigA47

New Member
Why assume? Do you know whether a D16Y7 ECU would properly run a D16W1 engine? The answer may be crucial.

Did the D16W1 engine run well prior to the swap?

Have you checked for CEL codes?


FYI:
  1. The service connector must be shorted and the engine must be idling to spec in order to check and adjust the base ignition timing.
  2. Having a 20A fuse installed where a 7.5A fuse belongs is fire hazard.
  3. A throttle cable adjusted too tightly can prevent the throttle plate from fully closing, and thereby cause a high idle.
No CEL codes and per the distributor, the engine ran well while it was in service and was removed with less than 60K for shipping to the USA.
 


mrbigA47

New Member
Yes I am using the stock ECU. My Check Engine Light works. I had a few CEL codes after 1st startup. The last one went away after I installed the new IAVC.

My replace comment was in response to you stating that my service connector had shorted out. That was the plug I stuck the paper clip in while attempting to adjust timing. The YouTube video I initially watched did not refer to the plug as a service connector. I googled it after your reply. Do I have to replace a fuse or entire ECU since the service connector may be shorted? After my timing attempt failed, my speedometer fluctuated and then died about 3 miles up the road once I left the shop.
 

mrbigA47

New Member
I will check the VSS sensor and replace the #15 fuse tomorrow. I shorted the service connector with a paper clip (CEL illuminated) and no adjustment to the distributor was able to align the balancer's timing marks with the engine cover's mark. Maybe I did it incorrectly. That's what prompted me to come here. I will check with the engine distributor to see if the D16y7 ECU will run the D16W1 engine properly as well
 

mrbigA47

New Member
I cleaned the VSS and my speedometer is working again. I also identified and corrected a small oil leak before it became a major problem. Thanks for the advice there.

Now for the timing, am I supposed to warm the car, shut it off, short the service connector, restart and then adjust or leave it running, short then adjust? (I did the latter)
 

mrbigA47

New Member
Do you have a diagram of the fuse panel for a 97 Civic DX? I found one online; however I would like verification prior to swapping and removing fuses. Example, the diagram I found displayed fuse places that were not used; yet I have operable fuses in those places. So I am asking before I dig in.
 

mrbigA47

New Member
The car does not idle as rough as it used to, but there is a slight "lope" to it at idle. So I verified my internal timing marks. Both marks on the cam sprocket, with the "UP" facing north, fall just beneath the timing marks (triangles) on either side of the engine. I am unable to have both marks line up perfectly simultaneously with the triangles; however the crank lines up perfectly with its timing mark. Is this correct?
 

mrbigA47

New Member
I could not open that zip file; however I did find this image. It is a diagram of the timing marks for a D16W1 engine. My set up is almost identical
 

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mrbigA47

New Member
No photos because I've already reassembled the car. The marks are horizontal even though they do not match the engine marks
 

mrbigA47

New Member
Sorry for the late post, but I have some good news. I replaced the gauge cluster with one from a 98 Civic LX (it has a tach), the steering wheel, the VSS and adjusted the TPS. The car idles a lot better now and the gauges work; however the SRS LED stays on and the gauges are off (tach starts around 1000 -1200 and the speedometer about 30 mph).
 

mrbigA47

New Member
I saw a video on calibrating the tach and speedometer. There was also on resetting the SRS. Going to try both tomorrow and update when I'm done.
 

mrbigA47

New Member
UPDATE:

I verified mechanical timing Thursday. The car ran smoothly with the exception of a high idle and minor surge. It was suggested that I test the MAP by unplugging the sensor and see if the car continues to run. It did, so I replaced the MAP and throttle body gasket. The surge returned with a VENGENCE. To date, I have replaced the VSS, IAVC, TSP, PCV valve and the MAP (today). Anymore ideas?

Oh yeah, the car has no CELs
 
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civteck

Respected
Registered VIP
Iac on the back of the intake will do that, sounds like a surging dsm when its stuck. It can be cleaned to operate properly.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

mrbigA47

New Member
Iac on the back of the intake will do that, sounds like a surging dsm when its stuck. It can be cleaned to operate properly.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
Iac on the back of the intake will do that, sounds like a surging dsm when its stuck. It can be cleaned to operate properly.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
I will check it tomorrow. It is dark out now. How would the IAC get stuck so quickly though? The new one has only been on less than 3 months and I do not drive the car often.
 


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