How do I identify noise which pulley is making noise?

[martinkof]

I have Honda Civic 2008 LX with 65K, and over the past 2-3 months, it's making more and more noise. Noise seems to be coming from one of the pulleys, but how do I find out which one? I took the belt off, and the hydraulic auto-tensioner had about 1/8" play. I replaced the tensioner and the new tensioner is nice and tight, but the car still makes the same noise. I replaced the belt at the same time, too.

The noise goes away at 40-50 MPH (I guess the noise is there, but I can't hear it at that speed anymore). Live in south florida, so the A/C is on all the time, but the car makes the same noise with or without the A/C on. I was going to buy a stethoscope, but things are so tight there, that the only thing I could check would be the alternator...

At this point I'm lost and hoping for some help. Any troubleshooting ideas appreciated...

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

we need to know what kind of noise....

maybe a video?

 

[sleeper si]

try spinning the pulley one at a time with the belt off? if it doesn't spin smoothly then the bearing is worn.

 

[Osiris19]

Whistling noises can be bad bearings. My alternator pulley has a bad bearing and whistles no matter what speed I'm going. Check the pulleys to make sure it's the bearings and not something internal like valve tick.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[CO671]

There's two methods....
(if it's difficult to remove belts or to get to pulleys in the 8th gen engine bay, then I apologize, i'm speaking from experience with a 6th gen and have never even seen the engine bay of an 8th gen)


Belt Deduction, or Stethoscope
or just plainly looking at all the belts and see if there's any runout as if the belts not turning straight because of a bent pulley

Belt Deduction:
Remove each drive belt until the noise stops (leave engine on for just a few minutes)
Start with power steering pump, if the noise persists, move to the next.
Remove AC belt, if that noise persists, move to the last.
Remove Alternator belt. If noise persists, this means it's not a belt problem related to your accessories.

note: my automotive instructor in high school had really stressed this method to us students because he had a friend who kept hearing ticking noises from his block and ended up getting a master rebuild kit (full rebuild from block up), and rebuilt his V6 motor. After a few weeks and all the paint of reinstalling the motor, his friend turned the vehicle over to find out the noise was still there.... it was drive-belt related (I can't recall, but a pulley close to the block.)

Stethoscope trick without a stethoscope.
Get any long metal rod, like a ratchet extension or a screwdriver. Put your ear at the handle and use it a stethoscope.
This quick method helped me find out which pulley on my 99 Civic was whining the whole time. It ended up being the idler pulley, which I replaced and made my life so much more comfortable.

 

[martinkof]

Finally managed to make a video of the noise. Started to record inside of the car, with doors closed and A/C off, then went to the pulleys where the noise is the loudest.

Link to the video: http://youtu.be/ceMDptDqV4g

 

[CO671]

Take the longest metal bar you have like a prybar or a pipe and put it to your ear like I mentioned above, seems as there is enough space to work with there.

 

[Osiris19]

That sounds horrible. Overtightened bel?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[martinkof]

The car uses hydraulic type auto-tensioner, and I replaced the tensioner since I could wiggle the old one - I was really hoping it was the tensioner. The new tensioner is tight and I can't wiggle it, but the noise is the same.

When I get a chance later today, I'll try to listen with a metal bar. A totally dumb question: (since I don't want to get my head ripped off) - do I take the belt off and listen to each pulley while I just spin each pulley by hand, or do I listen to the noise with the engine running?

Thank you all for all your help so far!

 

[martinkof]

An update: I borrowed a medical stethoscope and used it with a 4 foot long 1/8" x 1/2" metal bar, bud did not find the source of the noise. It seemed like the A/C made the most noise, but none were obviously louder than other. The loudest noise came from the tensioner, but that part is brand new... I did not have a chance to take the belt off and spin all the pulleys (the engine is always hot when I pick-up/drop-off kids, will have to try over the weekend)

 

[TigBitties]

An update: I borrowed a medical stethoscope and used it with a 4 foot long 1/8" x 1/2" metal bar, bud did not find the source of the noise. It seemed like the A/C made the most noise, but none were obviously louder than other. The loudest noise came from the tensioner, but that part is brand new... I did not have a chance to take the belt off and spin all the pulleys (the engine is always hot when I pick-up/drop-off kids, will have to try over the weekend)

go to harbor freight, spend like 3 dollars and get an automotive one. they work amazing

 

[martinkof]

Thanks for the tip. Harbor Freight is a couple of blocks down from me and I picked up one for $3.99. Hopefully, I'll have time tomorrow to test it out - will post what I found out then.

Thanks again!

 

[martinkof]

Just an update: My friend's friend is a mechanic and he was willing to look-listen to my car. He was pretty sure the noise was from the back bearing of the alternator. He suggested to take the alternator out and have it tested Advanced Auto parts. Sadly, the alternator was quiet under load and tested ok.

Since I had the alternator out, it was much easier to spin the a/c pulley by hand, even though it was still tight to get my hand there. It did not sound bad, but then I took a string, wrapped it around the pulley, and got the pulley to spin fast (like a yo-yo). That was the first time I could hear the noise. At least I narrowed it down to the A/C.

I called Honda dealer, and to replace the clutch + bearing (it's a set) would be around $400 labor + $220 material. Well, all I need is a bearing that's bad, found them on ebay for $10-$30 range. Found a motor-repair shop that would take out the old bearing and pressed in the new one for $20 (if I just bring in the pulley). (AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH BEARING SANDEN TRSE07 35MM 48MM 20MM CIVIC)

I also found on eBay a set that includes the clutch+pulley+washers+instructions on how to DIY without disconnecting the A/C hoses. That set was $110, but from china-aftermarket. New Honda set is about $180. http://www.hondapartssales.com/lisle/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2008&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=A%2FC+AIR+CONDITIONER+%28COMPRESSOR%29+%281.8L%29&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List%20All&view=normal

Finally, my question: Should I attempt to do this job myself, or start taking a bus?

Thank you all again for your help!

 

[lethal6]

Just get a serp belt from a car without AC and run it without the compressor. Do you really need AC right now? It's fall and heading into winter.

 

[TigBitties]

Just an update: My friend's friend is a mechanic and he was willing to look-listen to my car. He was pretty sure the noise was from the back bearing of the alternator. He suggested to take the alternator out and have it tested Advanced Auto parts. Sadly, the alternator was quiet under load and tested ok.

Since I had the alternator out, it was much easier to spin the a/c pulley by hand, even though it was still tight to get my hand there. It did not sound bad, but then I took a string, wrapped it around the pulley, and got the pulley to spin fast (like a yo-yo). That was the first time I could hear the noise. At least I narrowed it down to the A/C.

I called Honda dealer, and to replace the clutch + bearing (it's a set) would be around $400 labor + $220 material. Well, all I need is a bearing that's bad, found them on ebay for $10-$30 range. Found a motor-repair shop that would take out the old bearing and pressed in the new one for $20 (if I just bring in the pulley). (AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH BEARING SANDEN TRSE07 35MM 48MM 20MM CIVIC)

I also found on eBay a set that includes the clutch+pulley+washers+instructions on how to DIY without disconnecting the A/C hoses. That set was $110, but from china-aftermarket. New Honda set is about $180. http://www.hondapartssales.com/lisle/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2008&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=A/C+AIR+CONDITIONER+(COMPRESSOR)+(1.8L)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List All&view=normal

Finally, my question: Should I attempt to do this job myself, or start taking a bus?

Thank you all again for your help!

I wouldn't do it yourself, it seems like you aren't the most mechanically inclined. safer to pay someone

 

[martinkof]

Just get a serp belt from a car without AC and run it without the compressor. Do you really need AC right now? It's fall and heading into winter.

I live in south florida and the A/C is pretty much allways on - the A/C is not on maybe 20 days a year... Even when it's not that hot, it's humid. Right now, it's not even 10am and it's over 80'F.

 

[martinkof]

SOLVED!!! - A/C pulley bearing went bad

First of all - thank you all for your help!

The problem was with the A/C bearing. The car made the same noise with or without the A/C on, thus it was just a matter of replacing the A/C bearing. Honda dealer told me the labor is $390 + new a/c clutch was $300, for a total of over $700 with taxes. My car has only 65K and I didn't want to replace it.

I spent $10 on a new bearing (got it on eBay) and $40 in metal-working shop that took out the old bearing and pressed in the new one. I also had to buy A/C clutch holder tool for $25 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-A-C-clutch-holding-tool/_/N-263f?itemIdentifier=150540_0_0_.

I bought the Honda shop-manual on eBay - well worth it. I wouldn't recommend to do this without a manual! (for example, you must make sure the A/C is off before you take the belt off... or you must push the tensioner slowly since it's hydrolic...)

Here are some photos:

Removed Alternator:

Removed water pump-pulley (3 screws). Then belt tensioner (1 screw) + bracket (2 screws).

Removed A/C compressor - total of 4 screws: two screws on top you see, one on the bottom-right you can see a little, and another at the bottom-left that you have to find by touch. Of course, I did NOT want to remove the A/C, therefore I did not disconnect the hoses!

A/C clutch removed (using A/C clutch holder tool). Comes off easily with two screwdrivers to pry it gently off. Remove the washer (or two), don't lose them!!! They come in different sizes: 0.1, to 0.5. Tiny, but very important...

A/C pulley removed: Use C-ring pliers to remove the ring. came off without using a wrench - pulled it off by tightening the puller by hand

Clutch & new (green) and old (red) bearings. You can see the bearing is secured. Local metal-working shop did a beautiful job of removing it and then securing it again the same way, but in between the previously pressed places. Obviously, the next time the bearing fails, I'll have to buy a new pulley as there isn't enough material to secure it this way again. I forgot to take a picture of the new one, here are the old ones...

Putting everything together was pretty easy. The Honda manual calls for removing the fan, rather than removing the water-pump pulley (3 screws) and the tensioner (1 screw). If you are removing the A/C and disconnecting it, I'm sure it's easier to go by the manual.

My only problem was putting in the alternator.... By mistake, I used the long screw that holds the alternator to secure the A/C. Both screws are the same length, both are 12mm, they look the same, but the screw for A/C is 0.6mm thinner (for those who care, the A/C screw's thread is cut, but the alternator screw's thread is pressed - that's why the "minor" difference)

My Honda is quiet again! Thanks again for all your help and tips!!!

 

[CO671]

Damn . Case closed! Good job on providing pictures too in case anybody has the same problem!
Great to know it's all better now!

 

[mymmeryloss]

good fix!