HOW TO Install Dampers
For those who dont know what dampers are its the technical term for Full Coilover Suspension.
Anyhow this is a HOW TO for Damper install and I will cover with some pictures I took while installing my TEIN Type Flex Dampers. Though I have to use some snippits from the Honda Service Manual since my camera batteries died on me early in the install.
NOTE: These damper are equipped with Upper Pillow Ball Mounts so if yours arent you will need to reuse the Damper Mounting Base
Tools Needed:
Safety Glasses (unless you like dirt in the ol' eyeball)
Mechanics Gloves if you have them. (Save your self some bloddy knuckles)
Lift (if applicable)
Hydraulic Jack (properly Rated for your vehicle) (1)
Jack Stands (minimum of 2 but 4 is great)
Wheel Stops (2)
Torque Wrench Foot Pounds
3/8" or 1/2" Drive Ratchet (Preferably 2)
17mm Socket or Wrench (2)
14mm Socket or Wrench
14mm Deep Socket
12mm Socket or Wrench (if you have a strut tower bar)
Breaker Bar (If car is high enough)
Suspenion:
Dampers (4 or if you just like taking s**t apart)
First off for Safety purposes always use Jack Stands to support your car. Never use just a Jack. Here is the proper way to support your car with Jack Stands.
What she looks like before the new dampers. Yup shes dirty as f**k.
Now Properly supported on Jack Stands. Not a big fan of having car on my face. Now for you Waldo people you can barely notice the Rear Sway bar there. That will be up for sale soon when I get a new one from Progress or somebody.
Ok personally I like to take off the top Damper Flange Nuts this way the damper doesnt fall out from under the car when you do it last. You can use a 14mm Deep Socket & Racket here. They may be tight so for you hot dog arm people us a breaker bar.
Next remove the lower Damper Retaining Bolt using a 14mm Socket & Racket.
Ok unfortunetly my pictures end here. Damn camera eats batteries like its going out of style. So snipits form HSM are entered in.
Anyhow. Romove the Flange Bolt from the Rear Spindle to the Rear Trailing Arm (Also known as Lower Control Arm; LCA). Then remove Flange Bolt holding the Rear Damper in place. Little tip here is to put the flange bolt back into the hole in the LCA and push down with one hand and pull the damper out with the other. 14mm Socket & Racket
Now do those steps in reverse when replacing with the new Damper. Another tip is to put the Flange Nuts up top on first to hold the damper in place.
Torque Specifications are as follows for Rear Damper:
All Flange Bolts : 40 ftlbs.
Flange Nuts: 38 ftlbs
Remove the Damper Pinch Bolt from the Damper Fork. 14mm Socket & Racket
Then remove the Damper Fork Bolt & Self Locking Nut. 17mm Socket & Racket (2)
Note: If you have a Upper Strut Tower Bar you will need a 12mm Socket & Racket to remove the nuts holding the bar in place. Makes it easier to work around the damper housing.
Then remove the Flange Nuts from above that are holding the Damper in place. You can hold the damper with one hand and remove the last nut with the other here.
Now that you have them out replace with the new Damper and go in reverse. Again IMO I like to put the flange nuts on first to hold the damper in place.
Torque Specifications are as follows for Front Damper:
Damper Fork Bolt & Nut : 40 ftlbs.
Flange Nuts: 38 ftlbs
Damper Pinch Bolt: 32 ftlbs
Well guys theres nothing to it. But to speed up the process having 2 people is great. Personally I dont recommend using Pnumatic Tools for this process as the high torque could damage the bolts. But if you do make sure you use the LOW Torque Setting and becareful.
Always use a Torque Wrench. Dont assume that the Impact Wrench will apply the necassary torque all the time.Over torqing is just as bad as under torque. You could snap a bolt then your suckin.
For those who dont know what dampers are its the technical term for Full Coilover Suspension.
Anyhow this is a HOW TO for Damper install and I will cover with some pictures I took while installing my TEIN Type Flex Dampers. Though I have to use some snippits from the Honda Service Manual since my camera batteries died on me early in the install.
NOTE: These damper are equipped with Upper Pillow Ball Mounts so if yours arent you will need to reuse the Damper Mounting Base
Tools Needed:
Safety Glasses (unless you like dirt in the ol' eyeball)
Mechanics Gloves if you have them. (Save your self some bloddy knuckles)
Lift (if applicable)
Hydraulic Jack (properly Rated for your vehicle) (1)
Jack Stands (minimum of 2 but 4 is great)
Wheel Stops (2)
Torque Wrench Foot Pounds
3/8" or 1/2" Drive Ratchet (Preferably 2)
17mm Socket or Wrench (2)
14mm Socket or Wrench
14mm Deep Socket
12mm Socket or Wrench (if you have a strut tower bar)
Breaker Bar (If car is high enough)
Suspenion:
Dampers (4 or if you just like taking s**t apart)
First off for Safety purposes always use Jack Stands to support your car. Never use just a Jack. Here is the proper way to support your car with Jack Stands.
What she looks like before the new dampers. Yup shes dirty as f**k.
Now Properly supported on Jack Stands. Not a big fan of having car on my face. Now for you Waldo people you can barely notice the Rear Sway bar there. That will be up for sale soon when I get a new one from Progress or somebody.
Rear Damper
Ok personally I like to take off the top Damper Flange Nuts this way the damper doesnt fall out from under the car when you do it last. You can use a 14mm Deep Socket & Racket here. They may be tight so for you hot dog arm people us a breaker bar.
Next remove the lower Damper Retaining Bolt using a 14mm Socket & Racket.
Ok unfortunetly my pictures end here. Damn camera eats batteries like its going out of style. So snipits form HSM are entered in.
Anyhow. Romove the Flange Bolt from the Rear Spindle to the Rear Trailing Arm (Also known as Lower Control Arm; LCA). Then remove Flange Bolt holding the Rear Damper in place. Little tip here is to put the flange bolt back into the hole in the LCA and push down with one hand and pull the damper out with the other. 14mm Socket & Racket
Now do those steps in reverse when replacing with the new Damper. Another tip is to put the Flange Nuts up top on first to hold the damper in place.
Torque Specifications are as follows for Rear Damper:
All Flange Bolts : 40 ftlbs.
Flange Nuts: 38 ftlbs
Front Damper
Remove the Damper Pinch Bolt from the Damper Fork. 14mm Socket & Racket
Then remove the Damper Fork Bolt & Self Locking Nut. 17mm Socket & Racket (2)
Note: If you have a Upper Strut Tower Bar you will need a 12mm Socket & Racket to remove the nuts holding the bar in place. Makes it easier to work around the damper housing.
Then remove the Flange Nuts from above that are holding the Damper in place. You can hold the damper with one hand and remove the last nut with the other here.
Now that you have them out replace with the new Damper and go in reverse. Again IMO I like to put the flange nuts on first to hold the damper in place.
Torque Specifications are as follows for Front Damper:
Damper Fork Bolt & Nut : 40 ftlbs.
Flange Nuts: 38 ftlbs
Damper Pinch Bolt: 32 ftlbs
Well guys theres nothing to it. But to speed up the process having 2 people is great. Personally I dont recommend using Pnumatic Tools for this process as the high torque could damage the bolts. But if you do make sure you use the LOW Torque Setting and becareful.
Always use a Torque Wrench. Dont assume that the Impact Wrench will apply the necassary torque all the time.Over torqing is just as bad as under torque. You could snap a bolt then your suckin.