How To: Swapping a JDM B16A Gen2 (obd1) motor into a 99-00 Civic EX.

DetainedCivic

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This is my how to: I am no expert and their are other ways to swap in a engine but this is what I did and it worked. This is for a 99-00 Civic Ex Manual 5speed and the donor motor is a JDM B16A gen2 obd1 motor. Some of my info will work on other motor swaps and cars, but this is directed towards one application.

The start:
Ok as some of you make know my car has been out of commission for about a year. I spun a rod bearing in the d16y8 motor I had. Instead of doing the cheap thing and replacing the block I decided I wanted something with DOHC. I decided to do a budget swap because house payment, school payment and other s**t payment I really did not feel like spending MAD money on a swap.

Finding the motor and tranny
I went down to a local shop that sells JDM motors http://www.japaneseengineimport.com/eng/home.htm and looked around. Before I went here I tried my local junk yard and they were trying to rape people on prices. So I kept looking an at japanese engine I found a b16a complete longblock that came with all sensors and jdm engine harness. Make sure you get this harness.. So I was on my way.
Next I had a friend selling a 94 gsr tranny with linkages, axles,int shaft, slave cyclinder, speed sensor, and flywheel. Ordered an exedy clutch and b&m short shifter with shifter stabilizer kit. As you can tell gsr axles will work on a civic application.

What kind of ecu?
As you all know in order to get a obd1 engine to work in a 99-00 obd2b(yes 99-00 all civics are obd2b) car I had to get a conversion harness. I picked one of those up at www.jhpusa.com.
Now it was on to look for an ecu. Local guy had one he was selling that was a chipped p28 running a skunk2 program (no ebay crap). Of course you can use a p30 ecu or any other chipped ecu. But the p28 is a real good starting point.

How to Keep AC
So I had everything or so I thought.
I knew I wanted to keep my AC, some of you that don't want to you can skip this part. But for me this was no option I wanted the AC. So what to do? When I took out the d16 I kept the compressor and lines all hooked up. Smart idea. You really don't want to break open the AC lines, cause then you have to go through the whole process of recharging the system. After researching I found out you can use two different brackets to adapt your d16 compressor to a b-series block. Either the p30 ac bracket off of a usdm delsol (must be usdm, I had a jdm p30 ac bracket that came with the swap but it did not work). You could also use a p7j off of a crv with b20 motor in it. So I went to the junk yard and picked up a p7j crv bracket for $25. For the belt I used a civic ex supintine(sp?) belt. The b16 ac belt was to long and the ex belt works but I would almost go a size smaller, because the tensioner pulley is really close to a bracket off of the block, so a size smaller belt would do a better job.

Keeping Powersteering
Yes, I know a lot of people don't keep the PS either. But I wanted this car to be all functional with all options I had before. So I wanted to keep the PS. Shouldn't it just bolt up? No. So my PS from the d16 was still hooked up in the car. I did not want to disconnect the lines and drain the fluid and then go and find lines to make the b16 PS work that came with the long block. To much of a hassle for me. So you are saying you can use a d16 ps on a b16? Yes. Took my d16 PS pump and I swapped on the B16 PS pulley. You don't have to do this but I found that the b16 PS pulley is smaller then the d16 PS pulley. Also since I had the ps belt that came with the b16 longblock, swapping the pulley would keep the same length. Ok so now we are getting ready to install the d16 PS pump on the b16 block. The bolt on the bottom can be re-used. I had to use a longer bolt and nut for the top mount on the PS pump. The d16 PS Pump adapting to the b16 block is easy.. One thing I wanna add is the ps bracket on the head was a b16 bracket and the d16 ps pump bolted right to that.

The Motor Mounts
Well almost done right nope. As you all know you need a rear "L" tranny bracket. Your d16 bracket will not work. You must have a 99-00 si rear "L" tranny bracket. I ordered all my OEM honda parts from www.hondapartsdeals.com. They had the bracket out to me in 3 days. The longblock came with all the mounts that are attached to it. You can reuse mount on the rear crossmember, the chassis mount on the driver side, the chassis passenger side mount can be reused from the d-series as well as the tranny tension mounts located underneath the frame rail on the passenger side. Now is a good time to upgrade the mounts. I also installed polyurethane motor mount inserts. So for this step the only brackets that I had to buy were the p7j ac compressor mount because this not only bolts the compressor to the block but it also mounts the block to the frame rail on the drivers side. I also had to buy a 99-00 civic si rear "L" tranny bracket.
 

DetainedCivic

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The Install
I am going to leave out the part of how to remove your old d-series motor and how to install the b-series motor. There are write ups about how to do this. I am providing my info on how to make this swap work for this car.
Ok so now you should have the motor installed with tranny attached, axles in, shift linkages hooked up. Use the above steps for hooking up your PS and AC that I gave.

Wiring- OBD2 to OBD1 stuff
Now comes the fun stuff. Ok if you are not good at wiring, including soldiering, splicing all that stuff that involves good wiring then don't do my way. All the obd1 electrical stuff came with the motor including distributor, injectors, and altenator. So why not use them? You can go out and buy obd2 distributor, b-series alt, and injectors but why spend extra cash when you have the parts there.

Altenator--Ok first lets take of the altenator. This came with the longblock and already had the belt for it so I used it. The belt was in great condition. Now the obd1 altenator uses a green circle plug. The obd2b harness has a brown square altenator plug. Hope you remember to keep the jdm obd1 engine harness. If not and you still want to go my route with the obd1 then you will need a spare obd1 engine harness. If you didn't get the harness and don't want to get a spare harness then just swap on obd2 distributor, injectors and alt so you can retain the harness plugs on your ex harness. Ok swapping the obd1 green circle alt plug onto the civic harness is easy. Cut your brown plug off. Wire it the obd1 alt plug onto your engine harness.
OBDI |OBDII
black+ yellow | black+ yellow
white + blue | white + blue
blue |white + red
white + yellow |white + green
Use heat shrink to keep moisture out, some electrical tape and you are good to go.

Injectors---I used the obd1 injectors that came with the longblock. I had to cut the obd2 clips off of my harness and use the obd1 clips off of the JDM engine harness. The colors match up. Make sure you keep enough length to connect to the injectors.

Distributor---My reasoning for using the obd1 dizzy is simple, it came with the motor, they are expensive if you buy a new one, I didn't want to sell the OBD1 dizzy I had and wait to get a OBD2 dizzy. So re-using the obd1 distributor was easier for me. Ok this is not as hard as you think. At first I was saying WHAT THE F#%# is going on. 99-00 Civics have an 8pin plug for the dizzy on the engine harness. The obd1 dizzy is a 7pin connector and a 2pin connector. Something doesn't add up here. After researching here is what you do. The 7pin and 2pin setups you find they run their rpm signal through the dizzy to the ecu, hince why you have a total of 9 wires. The 2pin connector on the dizzy is your rpm signal. The 8pin connector that is on your obd2b harness doesn't have a rpm signal. If you look all the way over on the driver side of the engine bay in the corner near the firewall, you have another main harness connection. Beside this connector will be a blue wire all by itself. This is the rpm signal wire. OBD2B cars get their rpm from the ecu. So here is how to make the two work. On your 8pin connector on your ex harness there will be a thick black/yellow wire. Depin this out of the connector. Ok now take the blue rpm wire that is located on the drive side, splice a new wire into this and run that over to the obd1 dizzy, leaving yourself enough length to make a connection to the obd1dizzy. On your JDM harness will me a 7pin and 2 pin connector for the obd1 dizzy. Cut the 2pin connector off, leaving enough wire to splice into. You can depin the thick black wire in the 2pin connector and repin the black/yellow wire from your ex harness. The rpm wire I had you run from the driver side, splice this to the blue wire on the 2pin plug. There you go. Now you have a rpm signal that will go to the obd1 ecu. To recap, I always double check my work, so blue rpm wire from drive side, run new wire from that to dizzy and connect to 2pin connector you cut off of the jdm harness. Depin black/yellow wire from EX 8pin connector, repin this wire into 2pin connector. Done. All wires from the 8pin EX connector will match the 7pin wires on the dizzy.

Extending Wires
Don't stretch your wires if it plugs to that sensor but isn't long enough add wire. I used the wire from the JDM harness to make longer lengths on my stock harness. I did this because I wanted the wires to stay the same color. So for instance you will have to extend the VTEC wires. I used the same color wire from the JDM harness to extend my EX plugs. Looks cleaner and easier to trace.
Fluids

Get a Helms book for your application. B16 motor takes 4.2qts of oil. Use synthetic, plus it helps on first startup. GSR Tranny takes 2.3qts, I used Honda Tranny Fluid. Use what you want. I used 50/50 coolant, easier then mixing yourself. If you didn't lay the slave cylinder out of the way and unhooked the hardline then you will need to bleed your slave cyclinder. The clutch fluid you can use dot3 brake fluid, thats what it calls for. Open up the bleeder valve and wait till it starts dripping fluid. Make sure you keep fluid in the resevoir tank.

Problems I encountered
Well this being my first swap I did on my own, I researched and did trial an errors.
1.Switching my obd2 harness to obd1 was easy. Searching how to was a pain. Reason why I made this tread. Rewiring the dizzy plug took some researching but it was easy once I found the solution. Rewire two wires for rpm and you are done. I have read that people have problems with their tach when they switch stuff over like I did. After reading a little I found to take the rpm signal from the dizzy and run it to the blue wire on the driver side shock tower and this would fix not having your tach working. However I did another swap just like this in the same year car with an obd1 b16 motor and did not run the wire to the tach signal wire and the tach still worked. Go figure. So if you are having problems with your tach run the tach signal wire.
2. Alt plug. The jdm green plug has 4 wires. So does the brown obd2 alt plug. Most people said match colors on wires and thats it. NO. Two wires on the jdm plug were different colors then that on my EX harness. After researching I found the solution
3. This is my own fault really and probably won't apply to most of you. But way back when I had my d16 my cat went out. So I went to a local shop and they put a new one on. Well they welded it in. So I thought the d16 down pipe would bolt to the b16 header. Note to self don't let exhaust shop weld cat to header next time. Since oem headers are two piece I thought it would work. So bolt the d16 down pipe to the b16 header and it bold up just fine. However the exhaust pipe goes out at an angle towards the drive side. Needless to say it doesn't go straight down the exhaust tunnel and will not even come close to reaching over to the rear section of the exhaust. So I have to cut off the old down pipe. I connected the b16 down pipe to the b16 header and after some good measuring skills and cutting skills I reconnected the rest of my exhaust to the header. Re-weld the exhaust onto the b16 header and I was done. But a d16 down pipe will not bolt to the top section of a b16, I mean it will but point the exhaust at an angle.
4. When I went to fire the car up it would not idle, barily started and would cut off. I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it going, and even then if I press to much on the gas it would cut off. I had a check engine light so I pulled the codes (if you don't know how to pull codes search for it, its easy and has been covered) code 7 and code 14 were thrown. IAC and MAF. Looking around and remember what I connected and didn't I remembered that when connecting all the sensors I remember there were plugs that were similiar to each other and very close to each other. Of course you will not be using some plug connectors on your EX harness. Why? Because the obd1 engine doesn't have all of the sensors that your obd2 engine had, like knock sensor. So there will be plug not used. The plugs I had not used I switched these onto the IAC and the MAF, reset the ecu and fired it up. Oh did it sound good. Months of waiting and struggle and she ran and idle at 800rpm like she was suppose to. So make sure you either label your plugs when you pull them off of the d16 or just remember what is what or you may have the same problem I did.

Conclusion---I hope this helps for swapping a JDM obd1 gen2 b16a into a 99-00 civic ex obd2b car. My intentions of writing this was I had a lot of time doing researching and a lot of the time I could never find out the answer. So for me there was a lot of trial and error. I found out what worked and thought I would share. I might have to change my name from DetainedCivic to something else now since the car, after a year of sitting, is finally out of the garage. Just want to thank everyone that answered any of my questions that I have posted over the past months.

New Update - After I had everything hooked up and running I was still throwing a check engine light for MAP Sensor. Come to find out JDM cars have their map sensors on the firewall so my longblock did not come with one. I got a map sensor from a friend, most of the time any honda map sensor will work, plugged the sensor in, hooked it up into the vaccum lines with a t-fitting, hooked the battery back up and she ran like a champ. No more smoking, running rich and bad gas mileage. She runs like she is suppose to. So make sure you have a map sensor for your jdm swap also.
 


DetainedCivic

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Yea, the jdm b16 ac belt that came with the swap is longer then the d16 belt. I compared the d16 ac compressor to the b16 compressor and the pulley on the b16 compressor is a lot bigger then the d16 compressor. So I used the d16 belt which is smaller and even this belt is running close to bracket on the motor, just above the pulley tensioner. I believe the crank pulley on the b16 might be a bit smaller then that of a d16 crank pulley. The ex belt will work but I would almost go with a smaller belt then the ex belt I have.
 


Dont_Tri

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You see my issue with my b16a2 is the AC belt tension er fell off and it's a special order from the Honda dealership and they are asking way to much for it. I went to my local junk yard and no luck. So I was wondering can i substitute the belt for a smaller size there for eliminating the tension er problem. I read your post and I could be wrong but I think you mentioned the 99 EX belt is smaller then the SI? Is this so and how could you go a size smaller with the EX belt do they even make a belt smaller? This is perplexing I'm confused so the lower you go in civic classes the smaller the AC belt?
 

DetainedCivic

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The b16 ac belt is longer then the d16 ac belt. You need a tensioner pulley, that allows the belt to go around the motor mount. I am not saying the smaller you go down in class in the civic means the smaller the belt. But the Civic SI has a larger ac belt then the Civic Ex ac belt. The d16 ac compressor has a smaller pulley on it compared to the b16 ac compressor pulley hence the need for the smaller d16 ac belt.
 

Dont_Tri

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Cool so I might as well and try it out and just try to put an ex belt on to see if it works. Thanks for the info.
 

DetainedCivic

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Ok just got back had to get the exhaust welded, and before this I was throwing a check engine light. But before I found out what it is I decided to get the exhaust fixed and then see if it throws a light again. Well it does and its Code 3 which is for map sensor. I am doing some research and haven't found out the answer yet but some people say jdm cars have the map sensor located on the firewall. Right now I am wondering if there is a map sensor hooked up but what is strange is if I didn't have a map sensor the car shouldn't start. I have no idea why I am throwing this code but I will try to find out. Might be me just connecting the wrong wire to it.
 

defvayne

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Keeping Powersteering
Yes, I know a lot of people don't keep the PS either. But I wanted this car to be all functional with all options I had before. So I wanted to keep the PS. Shouldn't it just bolt up? No. So my PS from the d16 was still hooked up in the car. I did not want to disconnect the lines and drain the fluid and then go and find lines to make the b16 PS work that came with the long block. To much of a hassle for me. So you are saying you can use a d16 ps on a b16? Yes. Took my d16 PS pump and I swapped on the B16 PS pulley. You don't have to do this but I found that the b16 PS pulley is smaller then the d16 PS pulley. Also since I had the ps belt that came with the b16 longblock, swapping the pulley would keep the same length. Ok so now we are getting ready to install the d16 PS pump on the b16 block. The bolt on the bottom can be re-used. I had to use a longer bolt and nut for the top mount on the PS pump. The d16 PS Pump adapting to the b16 block is easy..




im confused about that part, i still have not found a way to make my power steering to work after i swaped a b-series on my EX.
 

DetainedCivic

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defvayne said:
Keeping Powersteering
Yes, I know a lot of people don't keep the PS either. But I wanted this car to be all functional with all options I had before. So I wanted to keep the PS. Shouldn't it just bolt up? No. So my PS from the d16 was still hooked up in the car. I did not want to disconnect the lines and drain the fluid and then go and find lines to make the b16 PS work that came with the long block. To much of a hassle for me. So you are saying you can use a d16 ps on a b16? Yes. Took my d16 PS pump and I swapped on the B16 PS pulley. You don't have to do this but I found that the b16 PS pulley is smaller then the d16 PS pulley. Also since I had the ps belt that came with the b16 longblock, swapping the pulley would keep the same length. Ok so now we are getting ready to install the d16 PS pump on the b16 block. The bolt on the bottom can be re-used. I had to use a longer bolt and nut for the top mount on the PS pump. The d16 PS Pump adapting to the b16 block is easy..




im confused about that part, i still have not found a way to make my power steering to work after i swaped a b-series on my EX.
Ok I used my d16 ps pump, I installed the b16 ps pulley onto the d16 ps pump. Although you probably don't need to swap pullies I did. Your d16 ps pump will bolt directly to the head. The bottom bolt I could re-use, however with the top bolt I couldn't use the OEM bolt. No threads for the bolt to go into. I used a longer bolt and nut and this worked fine.

What b-series did you put in your car?
 

defvayne

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DetainedCivic said:
Ok I used my d16 ps pump, I installed the b16 ps pulley onto the d16 ps pump. Although you probably don't need to swap pullies I did. Your d16 ps pump will bolt directly to the head. The bottom bolt I could re-use, however with the top bolt I couldn't use the OEM bolt. No threads for the bolt to go into. I used a longer bolt and nut and this worked fine.

What b-series did you put in your car?
i got a b16. If tried to do that but the hose is not long enought for me to use the bracket that holds the pump.
 

DetainedCivic

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defvayne said:
i got a b16. If tried to do that but the hose is not long enought for me to use the bracket that holds the pump.
I have no idea maybe show me a pic. I used the ex ps hose. I had to adjust it a little by pushing down on it but it connected just fine to the ex ps pump connected to the b16.
 

oc_civic

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good job will move shortly..
 

DetainedCivic

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Updated my write up. Added a map sensor finally and the swap is running SWEET. Thanks for reading.
 

civic_hatch2032

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2000 civic ex

i also did that same swap and it runs like a dream. it pulls very nicely. im looking to get maybe a b20b or b18c1 block for my b16 head and make mad horsepower. i wanna sell it but im not getting any answers for $6,500 obo. sweet detailed layout man. thats what this site needs is more people to share their insight.
 

DetainedCivic

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civic_hatch2032 said:
i also did that same swap and it runs like a dream. it pulls very nicely. im looking to get maybe a b20b or b18c1 block for my b16 head and make mad horsepower. i wanna sell it but im not getting any answers for $6,500 obo. sweet detailed layout man. thats what this site needs is more people to share their insight.
Yeah after swapping the motor in I began working some of the bugs out. I noticed on my obd1 intake manifold the IAT sensor was located on the intake runner and on the obd2 wiring harness the old IAT sensor for my d-series was located on the intake pipe. RIght now I have it still on the intake pipe but I am planning on moving the connection to the intake manifold since that is the place the ecu looks for. My friend is trying to get me to swap out the obd1 p30 and convert to an 00 SI ecu but then I will have to add a Crank Sensor. Think staying obd1 is a better bet for me.
 


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