lower a 7th gen?...

civickidd99

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Alright, before I get 6,000,000 replies on how to lower a car....stop and read the rest of this. I've lowered probably 50 cars(mostly civics), but I've yet to do a 7th gen. I can whip out a 4th, 5th, or 6th gen in probably 30 mins. if everything goes ok. Now my question is, are there any weird stuff that Honda put on the 7th gen that weren't on previous body styles? I'm asking for tips from people that have lowered 7th gens and previous gen civics, and know a few tricks that the 01+'s are notorius for. I'm putting skunk2 coil-overs on one tonite or tomorrow for a buddy of mine. If they're pretty much the same, just post that up here for me. Thanks in advance!!
 

eviLsliDinciVic

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I've heard there is the front part of the car when you lower it it's kinda a pain in the ass or from what I've heard man. I was going to lower mine until I found out what a pain it can be and I could damage my car so I stopped thought about it and now trying to sell my springs that I have but never used on the 7th Gen's..I can't think of what specifically it's called there but it's hard and a pain in da butt! But the end of the car isn't bad to lower. It's simple..
 


cdmx

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Its not that hard, just time consuming...takes about 4 hours
 

cdmx

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You dont necessairly need spring compressors either....You may want to go rent one from pep boys, they give your money back when you bring it back.

But if your not going to use one...stand on the spring/strut with your foot while its on the floor and lossen the nut.

Do you have a DIY guide??

Here's one if you dont have one: (thanks MEX, for this)
FRONTS:

1) Open the hood and locate the top of the strut. In this picture the owner has already installed an optional strut tower bar which connects the 2 strut towers in the engine bay to stiffen the chassis and get better steering response.

2) Loosen the 17mm nut in the center of the strut. you do NOT want to remove this nut completely. You can try to use a socket wrench to loosen it, but after awhile the strut will begin to turn with it. Once this happens, you'll need to slide a 6mm hex key into the top of the nut to keep the strut from turning and a 17mm wrench to turn the nut. If it's rusty and hard to turn, you can spray on some WD-40 to loosen it up a little. Stop turning it once you have about 3 or 4 threads showing on the nut. See the pic below:

3) Now lets move down into the wheel well and work on the bottom of the strut. There are three bolts down here we need to remove. (4 if you have ABS). Let's begin with the brake line.


4) Remove the brake line with a 12mm socket. If you have ABS, there will be another 10mm bolt just over to the left you'll need to remove.

5) To remove the strut from the rotor, remove the two 19mm nuts shown below. It's easier to loosen the nut first, as the bolt itself won't turn until the nut has been loosened. These nuts are torqued VERY tight, you you'll need some muscle. Best tool to use is a [socket] wrench with a long handle for leverage.

6) Once the nuts have been removed, you will be able to pull, or hammer out, the bolts. BUT, you don't want to remove them yet.

7) BTW, you should find a good place to store the nuts and bolts you remove so you don't lose them


8) Moving on now to the tie rod. This is one of the most difficult parts to work with when removing the front suspension.

9) First, remove the cotter pin going through the bolt. It's there to keep the nut from falling off should it become loose when driving.

10) Once the pin is removed, use a 17mm socket to remove the nut.

11) Now for the tricky part. You need to lift the tie rod out of the strut. This can't be done simply by lifting up on it. The easiest way to remove it is to first hammer the end of the strut arm where the tie rod sits. You'll want to give it about 20-30 good whacks. After you're done hammering, try lifting or tapping the tie rod bolt from the bottom and see if it comes up out of the strut (see animation below). If the bolt does not come up after a few taps with the hammer, then don't keep trying. You should not have to hammer that hard to get it out. Continuing to hammer will warp the threads on the end of the bolt and the nut you removed earlier may not go back on easily, if at all.

If you need to use more force to hammer that bolt out, a trick that will prevent the bolt from warping is to hold a thick piece of soft wood underneath the bolt. Rather than hitting the bolt directly, hammer up on the wood. This will reduce the force being put on the end of the bolt. You could also put that 17mm tie rod nut near the end of the bolt as another precaution to protect the threads.

Now if you DO manage to warp the threads, all hope is not lost! Once you're finished with the install and you try to put the 17mm nut back on, it will turn the tie rod bolt as you try to screw it on, thus making no progress. To prevent it from turning, you will need to put LOTS of pressure on top of the tie rod as you screw it back on. I've heard of people wedging a piece of wood on top of it, but I find the best way to go about it is with the OEM jack. Just set it on top and raise it until you have it wedged down really good (see pic below). If that doesn't work, just wedge it more and more until it does work. If you give up, the part runs about $40 at honda dealers. Hopefully you won't have resort to that though.

12) Another way to go about removing the tie rod is with a 'tie rod separator', available at any auto parts store. Just wedge it between the tie rod and the strut and try with all your might to pry it out. Hammering the end of the tie rod separator helps wedge it in further. As you're trying to remove it, you may notice some grease leaking out of the rubber boot on the tie rod. As long as it isn't torn badly you'll be fine-- a tie rod separator will not tear it badly. An air hammer will, as i found out the hard way months ago.

13) You can see the difference between a good tie rod boot:

14) Now go back to the strut tower and start removing the three 14mm nuts.

15) Remove all but one (doesn't matter which nut you choose to leave on). You can loosen it but you don't want to remove it entirely yet. That will be the only nut keeping the strut from falling.

16) Now go back down to the bottom of the strut and start pulling out the top bolt. If you need to, you can hammer them out, since there are no threads on the inside. Once you pull out the top bolt, you'll notice the rotor begin to fall forward.

17) I recommend you use a tire to catch it once you remove the last bolt. if it falls too quickly, you'll break the CV joint. Just let it rest on the tire for now.

18) Now you're ready to remove the assembly from the car. Go ahead and remove the last 14mm nut on the top of the strut tower and make sure you catch the falling strut at the same time. When you work it out, be careful not to snag it on the ABS / brake lines.

19) Before you disassemble the strut, you need to mark the top and bottom to insure you line them up correctly when putting them back together. If you're working on a 2002+ model, the top mount should already me marked with an L or R (for left and right) and an arrow pointing in the direction it should be facing when it goes back on the car. If the top and bottom are not put together correctly the bolts will not line up in the strut tower, so this is important. If the marks aren't there, just use white out or something.

20) Now for the scary part. Taking apart the strut. That 17mm nut on top, the one that we first loosened in the beginning, is the only thing keeping the strut from springing apart (no pun intended). Some say you should always use a spring compressor when doing this. In fact, I say you should always use a spring compressor, but as the writer of this DIY, I am telling you it's not necessary with the 2001+ Civics, as long as you have someone sit on the spring, or as I did it, stand on it with my foot. It doesn't spring out like you think it would (I've tested this on 6 cars already). Below you will see a video of me removing the 17mm nut and the strut coming apart. I was probably only applying 70 lbs. of pressure to the spring with my foot, so it's much more effective if you sit on the spring and remove the nut. Even though I have deemed it safe, you should have the spring aiming away from anything that it might cause damage to just in case it's under a little more pressure. And if you have access to a spring compressor, then don't be a man. Use it.

Once you put on your new springs, just follow these directions in reverse. You may need to compress the spring in order to put that 17mm bolt back on the top of the strut assembly, unless you have 4 strong hands. If you are installing coilovers, make sure you use the factory bearing ring! Without it you will get nasty clanging noises every time you turn. On the 2001 models, it's a plastic piece with grease on it, on the 2002-2003 models it will be a metal ring attached to the spring cap. Careful when prying it off the cap or you'll open it up and release the ball bearings inside.
 


cdmx

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REARS:
21) Now it's time for the rears. Fold down your seats and pry out what some people call "the secret compartment". This is how you will remove one of the two 14mm nuts in the back. You'll need an extension attachment to reach down there. If you're working on a sedan, you'll need to remove the entire panel between the door and seat. There are maybe 4 clips holding it in place. Just push out the clip that's visible from inside the trunk, then you can lift up on the panel to remove it.

22) Sorry for the dark picture, but once you peel away the lining behind the seats, you'll see the top of the strut, and the two 14mm nuts you need to remove. This is also a good time to loosen the 14mm nut on the very top of the strut assembly, the same way we did in the front; just until maybe 2 or 3 threads are showing on the inside. You'll eventually need to use a 5mm hex key to keep the strut from turning as you loosen the nut, as was the case with the front.

23) Here, the two 14mm nuts have been removed from the rear strut tower. Again, that nut in the far back you'll have to loosen by using an extension through "the secret compartment". It's much easier.

24) Now, the last bolt you need to remove. This bad boy is a 17mm. Do not try to loosen the nut on the opposite side, as it is welded to the control arm. People will laugh at you.

25) You may have to get underneath the car to get good leverage to loosen this bolt, but once you get it started, it gets tricky. After you loosen it about a half inch, you'll notice it won't come out anymore. To continue removing it, you'll need to pull the bolt as you unscrew it, or even better, push it out from the other side.

26) Here I am using a thin allen wrench to push it as I unscrew. technically you shouldn't need to unscrew the bolt anymore, since the only thing that holds it in are the threads on the nut. but rather than pounding it out with a hammer, it also helps to unscrew as you push. Once it's almost out, you may need someone to stand on or apply pressure to the control arm, which can easily be done by standing on the rotor itself.. believe me, it makes it much easier to pull out the bolt. You'll also want to do this when putting the strut back on the car. Now, when you're finished with the install and putting this bolt back on the car, once you have the bolt going through the strut to the other side, lower the car all the way before tightening it down completely! Otherwise you risk tearing the bushings going around the bottom eyelets (if applicable). You want them to settle in first.

27) Now you can remove the assembly from the rear. In this case, I forgot to loosen the 14mm nut on the top of the strut while it was still in the car. So here I am, doing it now. Take my word, it's much easier to loosen while it's still in the car.

28) Again, only loosen it to the point that 2 or 3 threads are showing from the top of the nut.

Also, remember to mark the top and bottom of the strut assembly before you take it apart so you can match up the marks on the top and bottom when you put it back together!

29) Now for the scary part all over again. Taking apart the strut. I found that the rear struts were not as compressed as the fronts, so this should be even easier to take apart. Just like before, have someone sit on the spring, or apply weight with your foot. Below is the video of me removing the 14mm nut that holds it together. You can barely even see it pop apart.

Pay close attention to the order of the parts that come off so you can put them back together correctly. And depending on what kind of springs/coilovers you got, you may not need to use some parts. Sometimes common sense should tell you, but if you're not certain, either search or ask!

BTW dont forget those coilovers are stiff, becarefull of potholes and s**t...cause you will blow those stock shocks...i have goldlines for about a year 1/2 and havne't blown mine yet.
 

cdmx

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If you wnat pics, and gif animations of the diy...im me
 

civicvtec1ps

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Really easy DIY.
Spring compressor aren't "needed".
Won't need it for rear. You might want to use spring compressor on front.
Get Tie Rod separator. Cost about $10-15 at any auto shops.
VERY usuful tool. It is b***h to get it off without it.
I am replacing tie rod boot on driver side. Its ripped.
 

partyboi

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yea...only thing is to watch out when you hammer out the tie rod...i stripped my thread but managed to rethread it...hammer it out with a block of wood under it or soemthing...only thing against the tie rod separator is that you can rip the boot...i duno..its a risk either way to hammer it out or use tie rod separator
 

eviLsliDinciVic

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You would need a compressor. From the 7th gen's we've done..but if Pep Boys has them and you can return stuff go for it. But my bf did one and tried to and they couldn't do it without the compressor. And he works in a shop..
 

jdmsiref9

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Ive heard that the rear Skunk2 Coilover Sleeves tap against the top of the shock cover. Other than that... that might be your only problem.
 

cdmx

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no... you dont need a spring compressor the DIY maker did not use one for his front or rear springs..
 

cdmx

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I hate taking this from 7thgencivic.com but here you go...just trying to show what im talking about.

If you want all the pics and stuff sign up on 7thgencivic.com its a great site

 

technick03

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i have the skunk 2 coilovers on my 03. at first i didnt care for them but now i love em. great ride, not too bouncy like everyone says. local shop installed mine and the rear set up only lowered the car about 1". called skunk 2, they didnt have much to say. rear spring is large (tight fit) and not much room for movement to lower and raise. we put front springs on back and back on front. you need to trim top part of bump stopon front that flares out or it will sound like s**t when you turn wheel. now all is well. dropped about 3". stock rims tuck about 1/4". i like the slammed look . . . so let me know how it goes for you when all is done.
 

mugen00

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I though you always had to use a spring compressor but i guess not!
 

cdmx

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now getting on the aftermarket rear springs i think requires some strength....or was it the fronts....
 

shortie23va

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i had problems getting the rear springs on. that part sucked, it took us about 4 hours to put my gold lines on and we used the compressor on two springs then we figured it went quicker with out that thing.
 

boricuacvc

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watsup guys. my boy has an 03 si and is either getting the skunk2 coilovers or the eibach springs. which would you suggest? as for the drop, would he NEED the camber kit, or would the nut/bolt trick work. please let me know ASAP. he's getting the rims put on this saturday and doesn't wanna be drivin on stilts for too long. later.
 

pon55

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Put on my Goldlines in 3 hours,with compressors.(It's easier if your old!) def on tie rod end tool,rears are easy once you figure out how-jack the bottom of the strut. I didn't put on coil overs as their seems to be problems on the 03 and up. SH#T,what a dif in handeling,and rides good! Nut bolt trick is no longer an option!!!!!!!!!!!
 


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