New honda owner.

Dom559

New Member
The ecu you have is correct for that motor. Dont worry about the charcole vent hose just put aside. Move the carpet from the ecu to expose the harness and take another pic. 1 of the plugs in your hand might be for the map, i dont think you have that right.. we need to see what the harness looks like at the ecu to go forward. Do you have an ohm meter? Need to know whats not hooked up and what might be in an incorrect place.

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pulled carpet up to get pic of harness under carpet but cant get good enough lighting. I do have a ohms reader
 

civteck

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Ok good thats your obd2 obd1 adapter, make sure all pins, plugs are tight, iv seen harnesses as cheap as $20 where the plugs look tight but the pins get pushed out while setting.. your gonna nees your meter and a jumper wire or so to reach the next few steps.

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civteck

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Use this pic as reference as what the plugs are called and how their numbered. I want you to ohm out the signal wire from each sensor to make sure your plugged in the correct sensor. Go from the jumper harness at the ecu pin and ring out on the motor side.
So basically put your meter on ohm tone (beep with continuity) leave 1 lead on the ecu harness then touch all 3 (1 at a time) for the tps and map sensor then 2 on the iac.
D17 is for the map sensor
D11 for the tps
A9 for the iac.
If you dont get a ring from the plugs check the ones hanging under the intake.

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Dom559

New Member
Use this pic as reference as what the plugs are called and how their numbered. I want you to ohm out the signal wire from each sensor to make sure your plugged in the correct sensor. Go from the jumper harness at the ecu pin and ring out on the motor side.
So basically put your meter on ohm tone (beep with continuity) leave 1 lead on the ecu harness then touch all 3 (1 at a time) for the tps and map sensor then 2 on the iac.
D17 is for the map sensor
D11 for the tps
A9 for the iac.
If you dont get a ring from the plugs check the ones hanging under the intake.

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Alrighty ill be doing this first thing in AM really cold out. Most of this swap is starting to look somewhat done right. Im thinking some sensors are missing from after market air intake and the obvious missing 02 sensors. im assuming that's the idle issues.. The key not starting it mind boggles me..
Will have the readings to your first thing in am.
 

Dom559

New Member
I was asking the person i got it from some questions today. He got it already swapped and it ran great apparently. He killed the engine swapped in another b18 and apparently the ecu. He told me ignition just randomly stopped working one day also stated it never had idle issue untill it sat for 1 year and thats when i got it..
 

civteck

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Fyi im not a big fan of an msd coil on a honda, can lead to more problems then needed and oem can handle up to or over 500whp. The crank thing will be a whole diff prob. Try a test light at the starter wire and crank the key see what happens.. had my first swap do the same but it was missing the ELD but it was an obd0 to obd1 swap so i wont confuse any further with this issue.

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civteck

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Come to think of it could be the clutch pedal switch not letting it crank, just thinkin out loud here.

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Dom559

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Come to think of it could be the clutch pedal switch not letting it crank, just thinkin out loud here.

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Think out loud all you want. Im assuming there would be a switch near the clutch? how would i go about testing said switch?
Also had to unplug the button in door well because it constantly beeps with drivers door open. Sadly it didnt do this untill i swapped out the lock and key cylinder
 

Dom559

New Member
i appreciate all your help bro if you were closer id buy you a beer.
If the msd coil can cause issues i dont mind returning it to stock. I would like to make the exhaust stock and have the 02s hooked up properly. Im assuming i get the exhaust from a acura to match engine or do i get it from a civic to match the body and routing and stuff?
 

civteck

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Lets leave the msd now assuming it (worked), the clutch switch is at the pedal assy and as easy as unplugging it, checking with the meter that its n/o or n/c when still and changes either way when pressed. You can leave the header thats on there now just add an 02 sensor. Its just a Honda dont reengineering it just fix somethin stupid someone else did.
Ill have time tomm to reread this thread as i need to remember exactly whats happening (alot) and see what we covered already

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Dom559

New Member
Lets leave the msd now assuming it (worked), the clutch switch is at the pedal assy and as easy as unplugging it, checking with the meter that its n/o or n/c when still and changes either way when pressed. You can leave the header thats on there now just add an 02 sensor. Its just a Honda dont reengineering it just fix somethin stupid someone else did.
Ill have time tomm to reread this thread as i need to remember exactly whats happening (alot) and see what we covered already

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Its straight piped basicly header and pipe to tip. Id like a cat and muffler abit loud for my taste
 

Dom559

New Member
Use this pic as reference as what the plugs are called and how their numbered. I want you to ohm out the signal wire from each sensor to make sure your plugged in the correct sensor. Go from the jumper harness at the ecu pin and ring out on the motor side.
So basically put your meter on ohm tone (beep with continuity) leave 1 lead on the ecu harness then touch all 3 (1 at a time) for the tps and map sensor then 2 on the iac.
D17 is for the map sensor
D11 for the tps
A9 for the iac.
If you dont get a ring from the plugs check the ones hanging under the intake.

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I seem to be getting power through the iac,map and tps at the ecu harness. I also tried unplugging them while its running if i unplug iac car shuts off. If i unplug theres a very very very slight difference in idle speed. I can seem to locate map under hood? TPS and IAC botch found on throttle body on firewall side. Theres also a sensor just opposite of the tps on hood side not sure what sensor that is?
 

Dom559

New Member
I have also noticed first start in morning when its really cold is very hard to start basicly takes 3-4 mins of it starting for 2 seconds and shutting off over and over till it stays running? I also noticed the idle surging is extremely worse when warm
 

civteck

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Tps is on the side of the tb, the map is on the top of the tb the iac is on the back of the manifold. Im asking you to ring out each sensor at the ecu so you know its plugged into the correct sensor. The iac and iat share the same style plug and can be backwards, same is true for the tps and map. Just disconnecting will not tell you anything without a load on the motor. Cold hard starts point me that the map is incorrect. Please ring them out to eliminate that possibility.

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Dom559

New Member
Tps is on the side of the tb, the map is on the top of the tb the iac is on the back of the manifold. Im asking you to ring out each sensor at the ecu so you know its plugged into the correct sensor. The iac and iat share the same style plug and can be backwards, same is true for the tps and map. Just disconnecting will not tell you anything without a load on the motor. Cold hard starts point me that the map is incorrect. Please ring them out to eliminate that possibility.

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So they have all ringed out fine. The car is also idleing normal now when warm. Still surging when cold and rough cold start. yesterday even when warm it idled the same but today its idleing perfect when warm.

Now get this makes no sense but noticed it at a stop sign.. When siting in neutral foot off clutch and gas. If the brake peddle is released the car starts to go low rpms like its gonna surge but very quickly comes back to normal idle (this is when it was warm and idleing perfect) while depressing brake nothing happens its only on the release..
 

civteck

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Ok another symptom, while idling lightly spray carb cleaner around all hoses and gaskets and listen for idle change. Could be a vacuum leak. It should change very slightly when the brake is pushed as the booster is vacuum operated. So when you rung out the map sensor from D17 on the ecu to the center wire on the sensor harness it rung out?

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Dom559

New Member
im also getting power to all the sensor plugs. Also when car is running and map sensor is unplugged nothing changes
Ok another symptom, while idling lightly spray carb cleaner around all hoses and gaskets and listen for idle change. Could be a vacuum leak. It should change very slightly when the brake is pushed as the booster is vacuum operated. So when you rung out the map sensor from D17 on the ecu to the center wire on the sensor harness it rung out?

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yes i had a little help from a buddy with more electrical knowledge than I. Most my expertise is in suspension work on off road vehicles
 

Dom559

New Member
Ok another symptom, while idling lightly spray carb cleaner around all hoses and gaskets and listen for idle change. Could be a vacuum leak. It should change very slightly when the brake is pushed as the booster is vacuum operated. So when you rung out the map sensor from D17 on the ecu to the center wire on the sensor harness it rung out?

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One of the first thing i did was the carb cleaner trick looking for vaccum leaks. i see now i left that out of my first post i apologize. All vaccum lines and everything near the TB and intake was sprayed fairly heavily with no effect. I have noticed what appears to be a vaccum line port right by MAP sensor that has no vaccum to it?
 

civteck

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The only way unplugging the map will make a change if you try revving while unplugged, it needs to see load change. Take a pic of said vac line, take some rendom pics too cant hurt.
When you turn the key to "on" but not start does the cel come on briefly?

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