New honda owner.

Dom559

New Member
So basically... Lengthen IAT and i have make the iac 2 wire. Am i correct or am i over doing this?



B18A/B using OBD1 P75

DX/LX/CX - D16Y7
Mostly plug and play. The idle air control valve will need to be wired from 3 wire to 2 wire (Figure 6 for OBD2A, Figure 7 for OBD2B). The secondary O2 sensor wiring will have to be lengthened by using an O2 adapter if you are using an EX style catalytic converter.
The intake air temperature sensor will have to be relocated in the intake arm somewhere (see figure 8). The CKF, EVAP purge, EGR and secondary 02 will be eliminated. Use an OBD2 B18B distributor for plug and play or use an OBD2A to OBD1 distributor adapter. For 99-00 Civic and OBD2B to OBD1 distributor adapter with either an OBD1 or OBD2 B18A/B distributor. Use the injectors from the B18A/B and remove the injector "clips" for plug and play (Figure 10). Use an OBD2 B series alternator for plug and play or an OBD2-1 alternator adapter.
 

Dom559

New Member
This harness is identical to the one i pulled i think.
Seems be a extra plu on mine. which plug on this goes to the IAT?

20190208_202634.jpg
 


Dom559

New Member
Ok so i went ahead and dissected the original harness and made sure all splices are going to the right corresponding colors etc etc. I did all except the fuel injecters considering didnt seem to have a issue there. Put the harness back in and got a couple random ass codes so i pulled fuse 7.5 back up and unplugged the neg for about 15 mins. Now the only code i have is 6 water temp sender which i broke in the process ill pick one up in the morning.

I truly am leading towards vaccum. I think booster tbh.
 

ctag

fill it with wires!
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5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Wow, nice work addressing the CEL! I'm surprised that didn't do it for you though, brake booster sounds like a reasonable next step.
 

Dom559

New Member
Wow, nice work addressing the CEL! I'm surprised that didn't do it for you though, brake booster sounds like a reasonable next step.
Thanks man its been a process... The booster i mind boggling me. I cant seem to fiind vaccum leaks. The booster does hold vaccum. If you hold foot on brake when u start the car it dosent move at all. leads me to belive bad booster.

Sometimes it idles great sometimes not... Always idles funny when using the brakes.
 

Dom559

New Member
Sensor i broke is in blue, broke the male end off the sensor lol it was corroded anyways. Another sensor in yellow.

Both these sensors are the only 2 im not sure of the exact name. Both located on passenger side under dist. B18b1 engine


20190209_204935.jpg
 

civteck

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Is the broken sensor a 1 wire? If so its prib the temp gauge for the dash, the 2 wire sensor i believe is the fan switch.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

Dom559

New Member
Yes it was a single wire and it was the temp for the gauge. the other one is the ect for the computer to know the temp of egine so it knows how much fuel and air to mix. I have now fixed it.
The fan switch is located on the back cornor passenger side on the t stat housing.
I have a video i need to upload because i have developed a funky noise maybe timing?
 

Dom559

New Member
As of right now the only engine code i have is code 41 i believe thats 02 sensor. 02 sensor has a plug in it and its straight piped.
 

Dom559

New Member
Is the broken sensor a 1 wire? If so its prib the temp gauge for the dash, the 2 wire sensor i believe is the fan switch.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
I cant thank you enough for all your help man. Few more quirks and she should be ready
 

civteck

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As of right now the only engine code i have is code 41 i believe thats 02 sensor. 02 sensor has a plug in it and its straight piped.
Thats for the heater circut on the 02 sensor, if you have a bung in the pipe just add a sensor if not have a muffler shop weld 1 in for you add the sensor and move on to fun with the car.
No problem with the help just glad you were willing to trust and have the ability to be able to learn and do the wrenching yourself. Once you understand HOW it works you can understand WHY the problems are there and what to do fo fix it. Good job on your part explaining, showing then fixing, i just guided you along.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

Dom559

New Member
Thats for the heater circut on the 02 sensor, if you have a bung in the pipe just add a sensor if not have a muffler shop weld 1 in for you add the sensor and move on to fun with the car.
No problem with the help just glad you were willing to trust and have the ability to be able to learn and do the wrenching yourself. Once you understand HOW it works you can understand WHY the problems are there and what to do fo fix it. Good job on your part explaining, showing then fixing, i just guided you along.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
Yeah man its been a good learning experience iv never been that great with electrical lol. Is there anyway the 02 sensor is causing the idle issue?
 

civteck

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Registered VIP
That noise sounds funky.. make sure the timing belt is not over tightened first. Then i would pull the ps belt, then alt belt to eliminate a possible bearing on either before you call it a timimg issue.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

Dom559

New Member
That noise sounds funky.. make sure the timing belt is not over tightened first. Then i would pull the ps belt, then alt belt to eliminate a possible bearing on either before you call it a timimg issue.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
Im leading towards water pump bearing. When pulling on belt it moves a little VERY VERY slightly but movement is movement
 

Dom559

New Member
Still have idle issue going on. Im really not sure if its the booster or not. Sometimes idles great sometimes not. hot or cold dosent matter. Booster holds vaccum and now seems to be operating correctly when you hold it and start the car. But if u press the brake at all when car is running it messes with the idle.
 

Dom559

New Member
What vaccum lines are supposed to be here? Im terrible at reading vaccum diagrams. Been looking and trying but was unsuccessful lol


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