Probably gonna blow up

[Blitz00]

i bought my '97 civic DX* last week, for $1800. i didnt really go over it thoroughly because im not bright and impatient as well. i bought the car to just to drive to work. guy tells me the problems with the car. brake lights wont go off, no heat, a/c or p/s. ok.
my friend starts working on the car to try to get it in decent shape.. there's random wires that go nowhere, (we are assuming there where to underbody lights or something.) we replace the thermostat, temp sensor and radiator, and my temp gauge still doesn't work.. fans are not kicking on. and some previous owner cut the hoses to the heater core and just ran a loop with em..
have a few pics but we are plannng to work a little on it tomorrow. ill take some more and post them all at once..
The car has 192k on it now... if this civic pulls through and runs for a year ill say honda motors are the greatest of all time... ill keep updating.

clutch safety switch has been bypassed. oh, and i fixed the brake lights with a penny and gorilla glue.

 

[TigBitties]

your motor will overheat if that fan isnt running, think of checking your coolant temp sensor? and all the wiring. and please do not tell me you put a penny in place of a fuse...that fuse is blowing for reason if you did and it is more than possible that you will now possible burn your car down or have a short somewhere else

take it to a mechanic

 

[Blitz00]

no sorry i should of typed that out better. it was the stopper that was broke off so it acted as if the brakes were pressed at all times. so i glued a penny there so it would press the little button in. the coolant temp sensor is the one on the side of the motor right? cause thats what i already replaced.. thanks for the concern btw lol
i also plan to put the fans on a toggle switch tomorrow. we tested them and they work so its just a relay/wiring problem i think

 

[Blitz00]

an oil leak, any ideas? im not very mechanically inclined..lol

 

[itsmycookie]

I;ve never seen plastic bendy tube like that used on the intake. I'd imagine with all the ridges on the inside it wouldnt be very efficient.

As for the oil leak you can clean that area up then try to spot it yourself. atm it looks like its too dirty to tell

 

[Blitz00]

Ill try to do that today, as for te bendy thing... ill try to get to that soon its zip tied in there as well... lol

 

[Osiris19]

Could be distributor, or valve cover gasket.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

 

[Avant Uprising]

Could be distributor, or valve cover gasket.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

Looks like a dizzy leak and a valve cover to me too cheap easy fix. And yes please clean the bay it will help u spot any other problems current or in the future

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

 

[Avant Uprising]

no sorry i should of typed that out better. it was the stopper that was broke off so it acted as if the brakes were pressed at all times. so i glued a penny there so it would press the little button in. the coolant temp sensor is the one on the side of the motor right? cause thats what i already replaced.. thanks for the concern btw lol
i also plan to put the fans on a toggle switch tomorrow. we tested them and they work so its just a relay/wiring problem i think

Maybe to bypass a bad heater core. And temp guage could also be in your gauges

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

 

[R3dline]

poor civic. owner must have been a complete dumbass

 

[mylovehx]

poor civic. owner must have been a complete dumbass

x2

 

[Blitz00]

poor civic. owner must have been a complete dumbass

This is what ive been thinking over and over i jus wanna find him and kick him right in the ole nads... its a stock sohc motor... why f**k everything up to try an get 5hp...

 

[12.8:1 Ls/vtec]

The brake pedals staying on may be due to the little plastic insert in the pedal having dry rotted and fallen into pieces and nothing is stopping the switch from staying pressed in. Look under the dash and up the brake pedal for a hole in it where there looks like a grommet should go.

 

[Blitz00]

^ glued a penny there already

 

[RonJ]

i didnt really go over it thoroughly because im not bright and impatient as well.

This doesn't place you in the best light.

 

[Blitz00]

This doesn't place you in the best light.

at least im honest, work a little on it today figured out the coolant temp gauge sending unit is bad... this is after i put the fan on a toggle. so ill take it off after i go to knoxville to pull-a-part next payday.
here is a pic of the hose that replaced the heater core.

here is my whole motor

 

[Blitz00]

oh and i found a thread on here that helped me find out the sending unit is bad dude grounded it and the temp gauge shot up fast .. that does mean its the sending unit correct?

 

[RonJ]

oh and i found a thread on here that helped me find out the sending unit is bad dude grounded it and the temp gauge shot up fast .. that does mean its the sending unit correct?

First top off the cooling system with coolant and then bleed it:

Bleeding the cooling system may take 20-30 minutes.

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push/turn the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat. Fan need not be on.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

 

[Blitz00]

is this to flush the radiator? he ground the wire to the actual gauge. and thats why it went up really fast. sorry for not understanding. my fan doesn't kick on by itself. the sensor is why the fan had to go a toggle switch. so i wont be able to tell how many times it was supposed to kick on.

 

[RonJ]

It's to BLEED air from the system. You may have air in the cooling system preventing the ECT switch and sending unit from properly measuring temperature.