Reference: HIDs: Answers, Specs, And More

EKferio228

EJ6
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so your still offering the service for the hid's? I have a friend that im buying s2k headlamps from since he wrecked it. If i have my own projects and headlamps how much is everything else with labor? I have 99-00 civic headlamps.
 

EK9

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EKferio228 said:
so your still offering the service for the hid's? I have a friend that im buying s2k headlamps from since he wrecked it. If i have my own projects and headlamps how much is everything else with labor? I have 99-00 civic headlamps.
$200 flat labor charge... you'll also need some shrouds
 


EK9

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EKferio228 said:
you dont carry shrouds?
I carry them...
 


EK9

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EKferio228 said:
ohh thats including the shrouds too?
you asked for price for "labor" $200 is labor only everything is extra price
 

EK9

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shrouds varies... $60 - $100, unless you can find one... anything off Audi A4 or E46 Single Xenon
 

gearbox

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ive heard of people using oven reflectors, but only for certain headlights.
 

EK9

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S2K's are 2.5 i believe... you can fit a 3" shrouds with a trim... but besides that no... have anymore q's let me know
 

qwikxr

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sorry if this is duplicate info, as I skimmed through the seven pages here..
This is C/P'd from another forum I am on.. I know it was recently discussed on CC.com, but don't know what thread now.. :(
Seeing there is more and more people on here with the HIDs (OEM or aftermarket kit), how many of you have wired in a hareness from your ballasts to the battery, so they draw power directly from the battery not thru the stock harnesses. I have burned a couple fuses upon startup, and apparantly if you don't get this taken care of, you will sooner or later fry you wiring system.
This is from a very informative site another member, Nater, provided me with..

Why can't I power HID systems from stock headlight wiring?
Some vehicles might be are able to power up HID systems normally without problems at install time. Most probably, it will not last long. The inrush load can be up to max 13 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen. The factory design parameters for headlight curcuit is 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, beacuse of heat buildup. These components are very time consuming to troubleshoot becuse they are usully well hidden behind dashboards and other wiring looms. Parts easily reaches several hundered dollars. Add 8h labour to that and it becomes obvious that a $50 wiring harness is a cheap insurance.


Why are relays necessary?

During normal HID operation, you use only 42 watts (35W to run the bulb plus 7W in heat losses in ballast) instead of the 55 watts that the halogen bulb uses, which is less, but, during HID cold startup, and for the first several seconds during warmup, the HID system draws probably double the normal operating power to run the ignitor circuit during that time. As the bulb warms up, the current draw tapers down to the normal running level. Relay circuits use only the stock headlight switch circuit as a trigger to close the relay which brings power strait from the battery directly to the ballasts, so the high current doesn't have to run through the stock wiring on the car. A relay is just a remotely mounted heavy duty switch, and the trigger power that goes to it just draws a small amount of current through the headlight switch to run an electromagnet that mechanically closes the contacts inside the relay which in turn hooks the battery strait to the ballast power terminal. This insures that you wont ever overdrive the ratings of your vehicle's harness.

I am passing this along because one, to let more people know about this since HIDs are so popular in here. Second, to see if there is anybody who's actually done this, and I would like to find out where did you source all the parts neccesary to make the new harness.
again, if this is duplicate info in this thread, lemme know, and I'll delete it out..

Thanks guys.. I'm prepping myself to do the retro using Audi TT D2S setup in my EJ6..
 

EK9

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Audi TT sucks, you should spend like $50 more and get soem Valeos but again IMO
 

Tom

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qwikxr said:
sorry if this is duplicate info, as I skimmed through the seven pages here..
This is C/P'd from another forum I am on.. I know it was recently discussed on CC.com, but don't know what thread now.. :(


again, if this is duplicate info in this thread, lemme know, and I'll delete it out..

Thanks guys.. I'm prepping myself to do the retro using Audi TT D2S setup in my EJ6..
luckily mine does use relays which are inline from the ballast to the igniter, i have no clue why, but they are there.
 

qwikxr

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EK9 said:
Audi TT sucks, you should spend like $50 more and get soem Valeos but again IMO
well, I've already got the TTs, and have had them for about 6 months.. So Im goin with the TTs.. I plan to go BiXenon later on, so I'll change everything then..
 

gearbox

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i actually like how the tt looks, its a bit different than all the others i see driving around. dont know about output on the ground but it looks good head on.
 

EK9

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gearbox said:
i actually like how the tt looks, its a bit different than all the others i see driving around. dont know about output on the ground but it looks good head on.
you seen the 3 series? well the US version uses the same projectors as the Audi TT's Bosch Single Xenons... it's not bad... bend your shield and you'll get nice colors.... the lenese are frensel so switch to some nice 2.5" clear lense i.e. tsx, s2k you'll nice more light on the ground


ngou said:
man thx for all the good info, what will u recommend on an si?
How much do you want to spend....


for future questions you can also e-mail me at spooncivic@gmail.com
 


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