Reference: LS/CRVTEC info

h22a4civic

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Originally posted by K-west
so in ur opinion do u think a ls/vtec is a good thing or it jus better to swap a factory engine ?
dude swap factory motor, or port and polish you head, and spray 100 direct port!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

iamgod

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Originally posted by Goldberg316
Since the b20 can only rev to 8000 safely, can you put in new or different rods to make the lenghth of the rod better for a high rev. Hopefully thats a little better:???:

d00d, the RODS are not what is affecting it, it is the stroke, the stroke is determined by the CRANK, and the B20 can safely rev to 7200 not 8000
 

h22a4civic

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Originally posted by iamgod
d00d, the RODS are not what is affecting it, it is the stroke, the stroke is determined by the CRANK, and the B20 can safely rev to 7200 not 8000
i thought the red line of the b20 was 65 mah bad!!!!!!!!!
 


edhgreatone

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ok wait i got a question of i get an si motor b16 and i put a crv bottom end on it.... with the mess up my vtec??? if you can only rev to 7 and SI's redlide at 8 then won't they mess up everything?
 

iamgod

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Originally posted by edhgreatone
ok wait i got a question of i get an si motor b16 and i put a crv bottom end on it.... with the mess up my vtec??? if you can only rev to 7 and SI's redlide at 8 then won't they mess up everything?

no, you can rev an engine to what the fuel cutoff is the reason you do not want to do it on a CRV block is due to its poor rod/stroke ratio..........read the first page br0
 

edhgreatone

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what is the best block to do it with if you want to go all motor.... what is the fuel cut off for the crv block..... what would you redline at?
 

iamgod

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Originally posted by edhgreatone
what is the best block to do it with if you want to go all motor.... what is the fuel cut off for the crv block..... what would you redline at?

once again that is up to you and the fuel cut off is determined by the ECU not the block
 

importlegions

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ok i kno this is an old post and iamgod got banned awhile back, but if i wanted to go with a b20 not vtec, what would i need to do to increase the stroke to have more tourque at higher rpms? how much would a new crankshaft be? would increaseing the stroke damper low end torque?
 

h22a4civic

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dude once you feel the power of the strait b20 you will understand. also you dont need more TQ at higher RPM"s cause the rod stroke is crappy1.76 if im not mistaken and you dont want to rev no higher than 7800, well at least im not, ALSO dont change the crank honda cranks are bad ass forged, the only other crank you could use is a stroker which is stupid cause it makes the RS worse,you are 15 i seriously doubt you will need any thing more, if i were you i would highly suggest going with a strait ls, maby b16 pistons, higher compression, and a port and polish, b18s have very much TQ not to mention i have a long block for 400, also get some experience behind the wheel first then go big, also you will run into traction problems
 

Handlebars

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black89crxls said:
dude once you feel the power of the strait b20 you will understand. also you dont need more TQ at higher RPM"s cause the rod stroke is crappy1.76 if im not mistaken and you dont want to rev no higher than 7800, well at least im not, ALSO dont change the crank honda cranks are bad ass forged, the only other crank you could use is a stroker which is stupid cause it makes the RS worse,you are 15 i seriously doubt you will need any thing more, if i were you i would highly suggest going with a strait ls, maby b16 pistons, higher compression, and a port and polish, b18s have very much TQ not to mention i have a long block for 400, also get some experience behind the wheel first then go big, also you will run into traction problems
1.54. 1.75 is "ideal", and r/s ratio doesnt have much to do with hp, it has to do with engine geometry and the forces and dwell times at tdc/bdc. it has the same r/s as an ls motor, and almost the same as the b18c in gsr's/itrs (1.58 for them). in a street motor, the r/s doestn have much bearing, as it only really comes into play at extremely high rpm- generally 9000+ is when you start to worry about r/s.
 

h22a4civic

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handlebarsfsr said:
1.54. 1.75 is "ideal", and r/s ratio doesnt have much to do with hp, it has to do with engine geometry and the forces and dwell times at tdc/bdc. it has the same r/s as an ls motor, and almost the same as the b18c in gsr's/itrs (1.58 for them). in a street motor, the r/s doestn have much bearing, as it only really comes into play at extremely high rpm- generally 9000+ is when you start to worry about r/s.
yea my bad i got them mixed up, thanks for the correction,
 

importlegions

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i want a b20 for the torque, even if the ls has close but not as much. if i wanted higher rpm torque wat would be required..from reading wat u put i thought it was a more aggressive crankshaft?
 

h22a4civic

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dude the crank has nothing to do about the TQ really, its how long the stroke is, i mean u cant make the crank better cause its at maxium stroke, if u did then it would tap the head, maby you are thinking about the cam's maby, that coulg give you more tq and hp at higher rpm, if i were u go simple because it seems as if you dont know enought to get deep into motor swaping, just read up on local boards and sharpen you knowledge, dont get in over your head, KID
 

importlegions

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hey f**k U, haha jp i kno more about the descriptions and names of motors, then about takening them apart, but im learning. i read something on this thread that stated the rod ratio was to short so a crankshaft that made the rods move a longer distance would be better for the cylinder walls at high rpms which means u could safely go to higher rpms.
 

h22a4civic

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yea i belive they were talking about the b16 reving higher and its easier in the cyl walls other than that of a b18 or b20 with a longer stroke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!BIATCH, hahahahha its cool bro, stay on here and you will learn, i have a 99 gsr for sale for 2500
 


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