K found it. Stole from "NOFX"
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Yes, you have to remove the bumper to remove the headlights.
On a stock front bumper on a 6th gen:
- Two 10mm bolts on the underside middle front of the bumper. They should be around a foot apart or so.
- Pop the hood. There will be seven (I think seven...) clips on top of the upper grill shell. On most cars they can be removed by plucking them off with a flathead screwdriver. I believe the '96s have phillips-head holes though.
- Two phillips-tip screws in the wheel wells. One on each side right below the headlight on the tip of the bumper.
After that disconnect any foglights you might have on the bumper. Then pull out either corner of the bumper so it's not caught on anything. Go around to the front middle and pull the entire bumper off.
There will be a metal "eyelash" of sorts underneath each headlight. They will have two 10mm bolts holding them to the chassis. Remove the "lashes".
Now you should ake sure the headlights are unplugged. Remove the black boots and then unplug the large black plug from the back of each light. Sometimes they will stick. Just pink one side (there is a tiny clip on either side) and lean it as far in the opposite direction as possible. Then press the other side and remove the plug.
Then there will be four 10mm bolts on each headlight. One under the fender, one at the middle point of the headlight, and two on top. Undo those.
After this slowly and gently pull away the headlight. In te outside corner there is a plug for the turn signal. Twist it to remove it.
Do the opposite to reassemble the front end of the car.
Btw, this sounds FAR more complicated than it really is.