T3/T4 turbo oil leaking

rkJDM

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#1
So, I just finished installing a DIY T3/T4 turbo kit from CX racing.com. Started it up and it ran fine for the first few minutes, but after that it started to smoke. So I removed the intake outlet pipe and unbolted down pipe to find that its leaking oil from both sides of the turbo. Why is this happening? I am running 5w20 full syn oil, have a -3 AN fitting on the turbo oil feed adapter, 1" return line and adapter from the turbo to oil pan. Is there too much oil pressure? Is it blown seals? Does it matter that the feed is on the bottom and the return on the top(pressure filled, but gravity driained)? Do I need an oil press. restrictor? Im new to the turbo induction mods, but have researched quite a bit about this and have found a few interesting points; But I have yet to come to a conclusion. Any help is welcome.
 

mymmeryloss

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#2
Sounds to me like u answered your own question in your question.

The drain needs to be on the bottom and the feed on top. They need to be as straight up and down as possible since the drain is gravity feed.

Hopefully u didn't mess up your seals...

Basically what is happening is your turbo is filling up with oil and overpressuring since the oil has nowhere to go.

Fix your drain and check back in!
 


2slo4u

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#3
whoa i never heard of anyone installing it that way before..did you not read up on it before? that'd be one long return line..fix it asap
 

Trekk

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#4
hahaha! You also need your oil return line to be at the top of the oil pan. I've seen a few people over the years mount it too far down and have drainage problems.
 


got traction

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#5
i bet those seals are already roasted.
 

Blood_Shot

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#6
fucking starbucks sounds good right now
 

rkJDM

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#8
Oh ok, I installed the connections like that because the flanges I got with my turbo for the feed and return only fit the way I have them on. I only got one steel braided line, 4 feet long. It threaded pefectly into the four hole brass distribution block I got and threaded into where the oil pressure sensor is above the oil filter. and the other end of the braided line threads perfectly on to the bottom oil flange. The top flange is barbed, so I assumed the return was barbed flange that only mounted on top and the feed was the threaded flange that only mounts on the bottom. So my connections are backwards then, that would make sense oh and btw my return bung is 1" from the top of my oil pan. I will flip the connections tomorrow and post reults.
 

2slo4u

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#11
you dont need to flip the connections..im sure you have them in the correct spot on the turbo (maybe, hard to tell without seeing) just rotate it so that the return is on the bottom and feed on top.
 
#12
Ok, so I asked around the shop i Work at and all I needed to do was clock my turbo. I had never heard of that before, so i researched a little and found out that it's loosening the bolts on the c rings that hold the intake and exhaust housing together and spinning the center housing. So I have successfully "clocked" my turbo now and the fittings line up perfectly. started it and It smokes a little still but not at idle, just when The turbo spools down and returns to idle. And my feed restrictor is -4 an apparently, but now I think I need to get the turbo rebuilt to totally stop the smoke.
 

2slo4u

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#13
rings might have gotten bad because of the mix up then..but, you work at a shop and made this mistake? :(
could also be smoking because i doubt you are tuned and your a/r is getting all messed up
 
#14
In town I live in I'm the only one with a turboed civic or aftermarket turbo anything for that matter. Muscle cars are all the only thing performance shops in this town deal with. I'm the only one to even slighty modify an import. It's a pretty hick town, there's I think one or two skylines and very few hondas, acuras, toyotas, and nissans. The closest import performance shop is 3 hours away. And the shop I work in is called Canadian tire, I'm just an oil and tire change tech. All I know about imports is from the Internet, magazines, tv and wrenching on my own vehicles. ANYWAY, I'm not tuned yet but am working on it. I also ordered a rebuild kit from the site I got my kit from.
 

2slo4u

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#15
your going to want to get your car tuned as soon as you get it working again..but then again im not sure how your going to do that unless you send your ecu out..are you going to have a shop rebuild your turbo for you?
 

Trekk

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#16
I'd run it a lil bit, it might be ok. It's not like the oil had no place to go for and exit, causing the seals to blow out. If you take a brand new turbo and fill it with oil then let it sit around for a while you'll find the oil leaks out. Once you ran the car and filled up the center, letting it sit for a while might of let lots of oil leak out. If you got time to waste pull the cold and hot side off and clean all the leaked oil up with some brake cleaner or something.
 
#17
Im starting to think it would be a good idea to get a shop rebuild my turbo. The rebuild kit is only around 40 bucks, so i dont know how good the quality of it is. Im a hard core DIY guy, but i really dont want to mess up my turbo. and the cost of the rebuild dosen't matter. Just as long as its done right.
 
#18
I'd run it a lil bit, it might be ok. It's not like the oil had no place to go for and exit, causing the seals to blow out. If you take a brand new turbo and fill it with oil then let it sit around for a while you'll find the oil leaks out. Once you ran the car and filled it up the center, letting it sit for a while might of let lots of oil leak out. If you got time to waste pull the cold and hot side off and clean all the leaked oil up with some brake cleaner or something.
Thats a good point, I think ill try that first.
 

2slo4u

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#19
Im starting to think it would be a good idea to get a shop rebuild my turbo. The rebuild kit is only around 40 bucks, so i dont know how good the quality of it is. Im a hard core DIY guy, but i really dont want to mess up my turbo. and the cost of the rebuild dosen't matter. Just as long as its done right.
i totally understand where your coming from with the DIY stuff..I am the same way
but sometimes we just gonna leave it to the pro's..balancing the turbine is something that cannot be done incorrectly thats why i suggest leaving the rebuild to the pro's
 

Trekk

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#20
I rebuild turbos that arent that bad. Pretty much what I do is, mark the turbines to a spot on the bearing (center) housing before I remove them. Pull it a part, replace all the parts (o-rings, bearings, ect.) Line the marks back up and bolt the turbine back on.

Balancing wouldnt need to be done unless you upgraded the cold side turbine, or didnt mark lines first.


Most places charge about $250 for a rebuild. If you do it your self, some places can charge from $25-$60 or so for the balance.
 






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