Tachometer and Speedometer aren't working .

[eK_Sedan]

Car : 99 Civic Sedan Ex
Motor : d16y8
Cluster : 99 Si

As the title states, I'am having a bit of trouble with Tach and Speedo working . I just recently bought the car in its current condition .. The previous owner said they both just stopped working one day while he was driving, all the other gauges and indicators work . I've been doing some reading and came across a common problem that Civics have with the VSS either going out or the connector plug going bad .. before I even went out to buy an Mulimeter I did a few recommended things .. First I got an OBD2 Scan Tool because i was getting a code, but everytime i went to scan the ecu there were no codes stored/no fault codes. I even tried jumping it at the service connector and the check engine light would just stay on and not flash . I also checked fuses 30-25-15 all were good even swapped them with new ones.. Second I swapped Clusters just to see if maybe that could of been it since I thought the speed sensor had nothing to do with Tach readings .. No dice, still didn't work.. Third I tried an different ecu, since my car has recently switched from Auto to Manual thinking they might of had the wrong ecu in . Still no dice . LASTLY I went bought a Multimeter so I could see if there's continuity on the connector and to see if there's a 5v pulse coming from the sensor it self .. Here's my results..

Key on:

Blk wire : 3.1
Blk/Ylw Wire : 0
Blue/white : 3.5

Key off :

BLUE/WHITE wire : 2.1
Blk/ylw : 9.5
Bllk wire : 1.6

I dont really know how to test the sensor itself but when I stuck the Probe where the key inserts into the top part of the gear and turned the wheel. I was getting 0.7 it would go up as i spent the wheel .. I went as far as pulling the plugs on the Cluster and testing the blue wire that went to both the Tach and Speedo and I wasn't getting any readings from the wire .. my question is, is the speed sensor dead*or do I have a short some where ?

 

[RonJ]

Car : 99 Civic Sedan Ex
Motor : d16y8
Cluster : 99 Si

my car has recently switched from Auto to Manual

What ECU? Post pictures of the ECU label.

Key on:

Blk wire : 3.1
Blk/Ylw Wire : 0
Blue/white : 3.5

Key off :

BLUE/WHITE wire : 2.1
Blk/ylw : 9.5
Bllk wire : 1.6

These voltage measurements are confusing.

With the key in ON(II), the readings should be:
Blk/Yel wire - ~12.5V
Blu/Wht wire - ~5V
Blk wire - ~0V

With the key off, all readings should be ~0V.

Describe exactly how you made these voltage measurements and post a picture of your multimeter.

 

[eK_Sedan]

Sorry about the readings, it's my first time using a Multimeter . Lol When I did the test I had it set on 200 Ohms ..
Don't have a pic of the ecu right now, but the one that's in now is the correct ecu I searched it up and matched the numbers .. but to get my readings I unplugged the connector and stuck the probe into each of the 3 pins . Once with the key and once with the key off . I don't know how to test the sensor itself so I went and took it out stuck the probe where the drive key goes and was getting. (0.7) it would change as the tire turned.. when I did this test it was still on Ohms . I took the sensor apart and cleaned it and sanded down the contact points and nothing.

Here's the Multimeter I bought.. cheap I know. Haha
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-69096.html

 

[RonJ]

Post the ECU code number.

1. Dial your multimeter to read DC voltage at the 20V scale (DCV 20).
2. Plug the red meter probe into the middle red hole and the black meter probe into the bottom red hole.
3. Unplug the VSS connector.
4. Turn key to ON(II).
5. Turn on multimeter.
6. Touch red meter probe to the Blk/Yel wire terminal and black meter probe to the Blk wire terminal. What voltage do you read?
7. Touch red meter probe to the Blu/Wht wire terminal and black meter probe to the Blk wire terminal. What voltage do you read?

 

[CivilCivic05]

What's the code?

 

[eK_Sedan]

Blk/ylw to blk wire - 11.5
Blu/wht to blk wire - -00.00

Ecu code number 37820-P2P-A12123-262210

I just jumped the service connector and I'm getting code 008 (light flashes 8short times)

Did some more research on the code I'm getting.. I guess its for the Top Dead Center Sensor in the Distributor ?

 

[OGstackadolla]

Did some more research on the code I'm getting.. I guess its for the Top Dead Center Sensor in the Distributor ?

Very well could be a dizzy issue. Had it happen on a swap in ole girl's car and the tach and speedo got hella unreliable at the track. I would hit like 5k and it would just drop, lol

 

[eK_Sedan]

It makes sense being my rpms don't work and how the previous owner said that the Tach&Speedo just died while he was driving .. Will the Vss being dead cause the TDC Sensor to burn out as well ?

 

[RonJ]

The ECU is a match.

Blk/ylw to blk wire - 11.5
Blu/wht to blk wire - -00.00

This^ is the reason that the speedometer doesn't work.

Test for an open in the Blu/Wht wire between the VSS plug and cluster connector B

1. Dial your multimeter to read Ohms (horseshoe symbol) at the 200 Ohm scale.
2. Turn the ignition key OFF.
3. Remove cluster and unplug connectors.
4. Unplug the VSS and use a wire to ground the Blu/Wht wire terminal to the transmission.
5. Return to the cabin and measure the resistance between the Blu/Wht wire terminal at B11 of cluster connector B and the metal frame under the dash. What is the Ohm reading?

Tachometer
Do the same Ohm test above by measuring the resistance between the Blu wire attached to the ICM inside the distributor and the Blu wire terminal at C11 of the cluster connector C. What is the Ohm reading?

I just jumped the service connector and I'm getting code 008 (light flashes 8short times)

Step 1: Reset the ECU to clear the code and then run the engine to see whether the same code returns.

 

[RonJ]

Will the Vss being dead cause the TDC Sensor to burn out as well ?

There's currently no evidence that the VSS or the TDC sensor is dead. Avoid jumping to conclusions.

 

[eK_Sedan]

I stuck a wire into the blu/wht terminal vss connector at 3 different grounds and I got (1 .) I even tried grounding it to the battery.

I did the same test with the ICM and got (1 . ) tried grounding it to the battery as well ..


Reset the ECU let the car run for a bit and the same code came back . There's another thing too, when I turn my key to the ON position my Check Engine light flashes for a split second and the main relay doesn't click off unless I turn the car off . Normally the Check Engine comes on and goes off when the relay clicks, not in my case. The relay will stay on after the Check Engine light goes out .

 

[RonJ]

The previous owner (PO) was a hack.

I stuck a wire into the blu/wht terminal vss connector at 3 different grounds and I got (1 .) I even tried grounding it to the battery.

The Blu/Wht wire is broken somewhere between the VSS connector and the cluster connector. Either run a new wire or locate the break and repair it. This should return function to the speedometer.

I did the same test with the ICM and got (1 . ) tried grounding it to the battery as well .

I forgot that the 99 Civic tach gets the tach signal from the ECU not the ICM, so the test could not yield a meaningful result. Nonetheless, for now, focus on code 8 and the fuel pump issue.

Reset the ECU let the car run for a bit and the same code came back .

Test:
Turn key OFF.
Unplug ECU connector C.
Set your multimeter to measure Ohms on the 200 Ohm scale.
Measure resistance between ECU connector pins C20 and C21.
Post the Ohm reading.

There's another thing too, when I turn my key to the ON position my Check Engine light flashes for a split second and the main relay doesn't click off unless I turn the car off . Normally the Check Engine comes on and goes off when the relay clicks, not in my case. The relay will stay on after the Check Engine light goes out .

Remove the glove box and check whether the PO modified the wires in the main relay connector.

 

[eK_Sedan]

I didn't get a reading at C20 or C21 .

I took the glove box off and checked the main relay it looks good. Wiring is good, hasn't been abused .. I also forgot to mention I was driving home last week on the freeway doing about 65-70 mph (i believe, lol) while I was in 5th gear if I gave it more gas my car would start to shake . When I exited and drove on the street the car ran fine . I didn't get this code til yesterday, so I'm a bit confused.

 

[RonJ]

I didn't get a reading at C20 or C21 .

Did you verify that C20 and C21 were pinned to a Grn or Red wire, respectively? If so, do the same test at the pins 3 (Grn wire) and 7 (red wire) of the distributor connector (see diagram in my post above). Do you get an Ohm reading there?

I took the glove box off and checked the main relay it looks good. Wiring is good, hasn't been abused ..

Are you able to post pictures of the main relay connector wires?

Also check for modified/spliced wires in ECU connector A.

 

[eK_Sedan]

C20 and C21 was pinned correctly .

Distributor Connector Results ..

GRN Wire : No reading
RED Wire : 1.7

Solid Blue wire spliced to a BLU/GRN wire


I assume this is to trick the car into being in park so you're able to get the key of the ignition





When I rewire the BLU/WHT wire should I splice into it a few inches from the pin or should pop the pin out of the connector and do it that way ?

Is the wire that's cut the BLU Tach wire ? Or is it the one I'm holding?
I tested the wire with the VSS unplugged and I got ..

Ohms :
Blue wire: 80.4

 

[RonJ]

GRN Wire : No reading
RED Wire : 1.7

How exactly are you doing this^ test and the previous one on the ECU connector? Give details.

I don't know what the blue wire is in your pictures.. The blue wire from the ECU runs to the tach in the cluster.

 

[eK_Sedan]

I followed the what you said and posted to a T .. at least I think, lol . I made sure I had a ground good and ran the last two test in Ohms . If I wasn't too sure about a ground I'd hook it up to my battery just to make sure . The ECU connector test was a bit hard as I don't think the Probe was actually touching the pin inside the connector because its a very tight spot .. its been raining these past few days so I couldn't really stay out there and work . I will be running the last two test again just to make sure .

I ran all the test again with the same results .. I got a reading from the RED wire at the distributor connector but not the green one .. I didn't get a reading from either of the wires at the ECU connector .. so I'm guess I'd have to run New wires for both GRN and RED at the ecu ?

Rewired the wires at the VSS connector (BLU/WHT) to the wire to the cluster now I'm getting a reading of 4.65 yaayy, just dunno what to do about the GRN&RED wires at the ECU

 

[RonJ]

Did you verify that C20 and C21 were pinned to a Grn or Red wire, respectively? If so, do the same test at the pins 3 (Grn wire) and 7 (red wire) of the distributor connector (see diagram in my post above). Do you get an Ohm reading there?

Measure resistance between C20 and C21 in the ECU connector and between pins 3 and 7 in the distributor connector. For example, the C20-C21 test is done by touching one meter probe to C20 and the other meter probe to C21. The pin 3-7 test is done similarly.

I got a reading from the RED wire at the distributor connector but not the green one

You need to describe EXACTLY how you are doing these tests. Otherwise, I can't help you.

Rewired the wires at the VSS connector (BLU/WHT) to the wire to the cluster now I'm getting a reading of 4.65 yaayy,

Does the speedometer now work? Is code 17 no longer thrown?

 

[eK_Sedan]

Yes, the speedometer works now no more code 17 . I was doing the test at the ECU & Distributor connectors wrong. I had the black probe ground to the battery while I used the red probe as the contact to run my test .


When I run the test at pins C20-C21 should I stick the black probe into the GRN pin and red to the RED pin ?

 

[RonJ]

Yes, the speedometer works now no more code 17 .

Good.

I was doing the test at the ECU & Distributor connectors wrong. I had the black probe ground to the battery while I used the red probe as the contact to run my test .

Do the tests correctly and post the results.

I had the black probe ground to the battery while I used the red probe as the contact to run my test .

Distributor Connector Results ..

GRN Wire : No reading
RED Wire : 1.7

Your test result on the red wire suggests a short to ground. However, do the resistance tests first and we'll return to this potential issue later.

When I run the test at pins C20-C21 should I stick the black probe into the GRN pin and red to the RED pin ?

For this^ test or the distributor connector test, you can touch either probe to either wire. You'll get the same result.