Tachometer and Speedometer aren't working .

eK_Sedan

New Member
Nooooo . I still need you, I wouldn't have gotten this far without you ! Lol

I just figured they were faulty since they keep throwing codes ..
 

RonJ

Banned
It's time for you to learn that a CEL code NEVER tells you what part to replace. It guides you to a problem circuit.

I abhor the idea of thoughtless part replacement as a way to fix anything. If that's your strategy, then do it on your own or pay some knucklehead mechanic to rip you off. I'll have no part of it.
 


eK_Sedan

New Member
s**t, I wish I could just throw money at parts or take it to some bone head mechanic .. I have to fix it myself .. so if you could help me continue I'd be much obliged.
 

RonJ

Banned
Code 17 - speedometer works even though code 17 is thrown, right?

Code 14 - any idle problems?

It may help to pull the CEL code with an OBD2 code reader as the OBD2 code will yield more detail about the idle problem. AutoZone pulls OBD2 codes free of charge. Get a print out of the OBD2 codes.

Tachometer problem - the blue wire is broken somewhere between the ECU and the cluster or there's a bad connection in one of the two connectors (C442, C411) that lies in between the ECU and cluster. The multimeter can be used to determine which section of the blue wire is broken or which connector has the bad connection.
 


eK_Sedan

New Member
Autozone doesn't pull codes anymore ..

Speedo works but I'm still getting a code, I think know what it could be . The plug from the wiring harness is starting to fall apart. When i Unplug it from the sensor the white clip in the plug gets stuck in the sensor and I will have to reconnect it to get the white clip out.

As for the Tach wire I located C442 & C411 .. testing them isn't going to be fun. Lol

I do have some idle problems. Upon start up my car will idle like normal, I let it warm up for a bit then drive .. when I come to a light or stoif sign my idle will remain high, I'd say around 1500-2000 rpm . If I tap the gas the idle will go down then back up. Most of the time it will do it on its own .. I've cleaned the IACV out , I let it dry and reinstalled. The car drove fine idled even better, so I go back home let the car sit then I go for another drive. The ran good for about one second, check engine light came on and my car began to jerk If I pressed on the gas. I would have to lightly press on it to get the car to go .


I forgot to mention, I started my car let it warm up to normal temp . I pulled the connector on the IACV and my idle went down, the car didn't die nor acted like it wanted to cut off.. isn't it supposed to die ?
 

RonJ

Banned
Autozone doesn't pull codes anymore ..
Try a different auto parts chain store like O'Reilly.

Speedo works but I'm still getting a code, I think know what it could be . The plug from the wiring harness is starting to fall apart. When i Unplug it from the sensor the white clip in the plug gets stuck in the sensor and I will have to reconnect it to get the white clip out.
You definitely want to fix this^. You might scout junk yards for a replacement plug.

I do have some idle problems. Upon start up my car will idle like normal, I let it warm up for a bit then drive .. when I come to a light or stoif sign my idle will remain high, I'd say around 1500-2000 rpm . If I tap the gas the idle will go down then back up. Most of the time it will do it on its own .. I've cleaned the IACV out , I let it dry and reinstalled. The car drove fine idled even better, so I go back home let the car sit then I go for another drive. The ran good for about one second, check engine light came on and my car began to jerk If I pressed on the gas. I would have to lightly press on it to get the car to go . I forgot to mention, I started my car let it warm up to normal temp . I pulled the connector on the IACV and my idle went down, the car didn't die nor acted like it wanted to cut off.. isn't it supposed to die ?
Clean the throttle body and adjust the throttle cable to have some slack (up to 1/2").
 

eK_Sedan

New Member
Didn't work :( .. I tested the 2 wires going into the IACV sensor and got 1.66 that's with the meter set on 20v . I read its supposed to be at least 5v. This is with the key on and sensor unplugged .
 

RonJ

Banned
Didn't work :( .. I tested the 2 wires going into the IACV sensor and got 1.66 that's with the meter set on 20v . I read its supposed to be at least 5v. This is with the key on and sensor unplugged .
Haha...what do you mean it didn't work? What didn't work? Your posts often lack sufficient detail to assess the results. What did you actually do?
 

eK_Sedan

New Member
Clean the throttle body and adjust the throttle cable to have some slack (up to 1/2").
I Cleaned the Throttle body and the throttle cable already had about a 1/2 inch of slack .. i turned the car on and removed the intake to make sure the plate inside stayed closed and it did ..

I tested the wires on the IACV and I was getting some voltage but not what I was supposed to get .. had multimeter set to 20v.

As for the lack of detail, my apologies ..
 

eK_Sedan

New Member
I unplugged the sensor, then I turned my car to the on position . Turned the multimeter to 20v stucked the black probe in one terninal and the red one in the other. I got a reading of 1.66v . I didn't do the other test where I ground the wire at the ECU because its raining ..

I swapped a different IACV with one a friend gave me and the check engine came on while car was parked.. same code 14 . I will get a obd2 scanner again tomorrow to see what the code actually is ..

Actually my brother brought the scanner home..

2 codes

P0505 idle control system
P0505 idle control system (there's a little pd by the P0505)

This is with the IACV my friend gave me ..
 
Last edited by a moderator:

RonJ

Banned
I unplugged the sensor, then I turned my car to the on position . Turned the multimeter to 20v stucked the black probe in one terninal and the red one in the other. I got a reading of 1.66v .
This test couldn't yield much useful information because the IACV is ground controlled. Repeat the test only on the Yel/Blk wire using the engine as ground. You should read battery voltage.
 

eK_Sedan

New Member
Tested the yel/blk wire 20v
11.88


I'm about to clean the IACV my friend gave me it was a bit dirty I should of cleaned it before I put it on last night . Lol . But I'm going to clear the code and try it out again.

I cleaned the IACV reset the ECU let the car warm up to normal temp. No check engine light. Car idled better than it did before.. the RPMs don't stay up high when I'm coming to a stop anymore.. after I went for a drive I let the car sit for about 15 mins went for another drive, everything was good .. check engine light didn't come on like it would before after the second test drive .. soo.. maybe my old IACV could of been faulty ? I'm sure it got clogged pretty bad considering that they were running the car without the box that has the air intake filter ........
 
Last edited by a moderator:

eK_Sedan

New Member
Tried to go to work this morning and the same code popped back up .. same jerking while driving in low gears, if i ease the throttle the car will drive fine it only acts up when i try to drive in 1st gear for a long time or give it gas. I have to shift quickly into second or the car with start jerking. . I am really stumped on this one..
 

RonJ

Banned
Tried to go to work this morning and the same code popped back up .. same jerking while driving in low gears, if i ease the throttle the car will drive fine it only acts up when i try to drive in 1st gear for a long time or give it gas. I have to shift quickly into second or the car with start jerking. . I am really stumped on this one..
Please write unambiguously. Are you saying that P0505 is thrown?

You are describing driving problems. P0505 indicates a problem with the idle system. Describe in detail any idle problems you are having.
 

eK_Sedan

New Member
Other than it being high it idles pretty good, doesnt fluctuate unless you press on the gas . It will dips low then raise back up to high. .
even with the check engine light on it still idles steadily .. yes it is code p0505 . I described the driving ability because the car only acts up when the CEL is thrown. Up until then it runs great..

After I installed the IACV it idled damn good, lower than my previous IACV .. went to start it this morning and the idle returned right back to how it was, high. But no check engine lights, as soon and I got down the street to the stop sign the CEL came back on.

I was just trying to tell you how the driveability is because the car drives damn good til the CEL comes on and I figured since I am still getting the same code I would explain to you how the car drives even though the code says Idle control system ..

My idle is okay. Even with the CEL on, its a bit high but that's it. Doesnt fluctuate . Well sometimes it'll dip down low to the normal idle speed but it will bounce right back up and stay that way til it does it on its own or if I tap the gas while stopped .

I checked the bolts on the intake manifold to see if they were loose or not and those checked out good ..
I even took the intake piping off and used my finger to cover the bottom hole inside the intake, the RPMS went down car felt like it was going to die so I moved my finger. .
 
Last edited by a moderator:


Top