My opinion....sell your motor and sell your turbo kit and buy my friend's B18A w/ tranny. It has like 30k and its going for 1000. You cna turbo that motor on stock internals are run a decent boost level.
you need some sort of fuel management.............. either a fuel pressure regulator or standalone tuneable ecu, which is infinitely better, though costly. get it properly tuned and keep the boost levels relatively low (~5.5psi) and you'll be just fine....... BUT, don't skimp when it comes to costs...... do it right the first time or you'll just end up doing it again.
WELL HERES THE ANWSER TO YOU PROBLEM SON, I HAVE BEEN IN THE RACING SEEN FOR ABOUT4-5 YEARS NOW. ITS ACTUALLY HARD TO BLOW YOUR SOHC. SOHC HANDLES 5-7 BOOST ON STOCK INTERNALS, MY HOMEBOY HAS A SOHC 98 D16Y8 TURBO, 7 LB, ON STOCKINTERNALS, 2 YRS NOW,, STILL DRIVING, IDAHO, SEATLE,LA, ALL OVER,, STILL HAVE NOT BLOWN.. WHY? BECAUSE THE THING YOU NEED IS FUEL. GET A VOTECH FMU, : IF YOU WANT TO BE REALLY REALLY SAFE AND HAVE MONEYGET INJECTORS OR ECU.OR JSUT GET BOTH, THATS IT.. AND AIR/FUEL GAUGE.. TO CHECK IF IT LEAN. NEVER LET YOUR MOTOR LEAN. GET TURBTIMER TOO IF YOU WANNA SAVE YOUR TURBOS LIFE.
I strongly agree...A good fuel set up and a turbo timer are a must! Also if your not running crazy high boost you really dont have anything to worry about. Stock internals should do just fine. Also dont forget to change your oil regularly. Good luck
Which D series motor are you running? It makes a difference. From my experience the y8 & z6 blocks handle boost the best. As stupid as it sounds the DX enginge is the best all around d series to go with for boosting though. Simply because its got the lowest compressiong to start with.
I've been running 10psi on a d16y8 (96-00 EX) for almost 2 years now too. I'm running a SC so things are a little different but the essentials are identical. Here's the recipie for things that are essential:
- FMU, Cartech & Vortech models work just fine. The DRAG kit comes with their own FMU so you're all good there. I have no idea how reliable their unit is though. I can vouch for the Cartech unit being flawless.
- Fuel pump, I highly suggest Walbro. Many other companies just put their own badging on Walbro units & sell them for more. go to www.autoperformanceengineering.com for some great prices on them. The DRAG includes an inline pump which will work just fine as well. The only problem is that inline pumps are pretty noisy.
- colder spark plugs. Typically with forced induction 2 steps colder works best.
- Turbo timer. You NEED this. Do not skimp. Unless you're planning on sitting in your car with it idling for 2 minutes every time you're done driving.
With the DRAG kit most of your bases are covered. With the above mentioned parts you'll be good to run 6psi daily & have virtually no problems. I'd even go so far as to say that 8psi is achievable with that setup as long as it's not used regularly. If you want some more reliability here's my suggestions:
- 160 degree thermostat. There's plenty of them out there (Spoon, Mugen, JR, etc.). The Jackson Racing one is by far the most affordable at $10. Most of the others are much higher.
- Better radiator. It's not really necesary but it will definately help keep things cool. If you don't want your AC any more you can fit an Integra radiator in with minor welding. It's the best "bang for the buck" option.
- Iignition system. Take your pick, there are plenty to choose from. The safest bet for a NA car that's forced would be one with a Boost dependant ignition retard function.
- VAFC or some other form of fuel management computer. Since you've already got the FMU it would go to waste with a Hondata. Usually the FMU & fuel pump combo will get you near where you need to be fuel wise but there's always room for improvement. A VAFC will work well with the rest of this setup.
- larger injectors. I have RC engineering 310cc injectors in mine & they're too damn big for a sohc even at 10psi. 270cc ones would be a better choice. You could even pick up a set of GSR ones for less money & not have to worry about putting on the new clips.
- Boost controller of some kind. Manual types are the best bet for the $$$. Turbo XS & HKS make good ones that are under $100.
If you get all of the above mentioned parts you'd probably be good to run 8-10 psi daily. Keep in mind that all of my pressure estimates are based on the system being tuned properly. I can't stress enough how important proper tuning is to a boosted Honda. Without the proper tuning you could even blow things up at 4 psi. Keep that in mind. If you don't know for sure that everything is doing exactly what it's supposed to be doing please just drive it like a grandma & keep the boost levels down until you've got everything squared away.
If you want any more help with your setup or just want to hear some horror stories about what not to do let me know. I'm more than willing to help people build up their single cams right .
Turboing a car should never be done cheaply. It will most definately end up costing you more in the future. A good fuel system and a good tune are probably the most important things to not skimp on. An air/fuel gauge, the ones that read the voltage off the o2 sensors are just pretty light shows. They might give a rough estimate at best, but they are in no way accurate. A better way of telling your Air/Fuel ratio would be to run an EGT gauge or a wideband o2 sensor. The wideband is the best choice and is extremely accurate, but it is extremely expensive. They can run anywhere from $400 and up.
B16a2 - Stop writing in all caps. Its quite annoying.
If you have good Fuel(FMU)injectors, ECU, and cold spark plugs. Its hard to blow. I tried to blow my stock Single boosting 9lb bonestock. For hella long. Smashing everywhere, from corners and burnouts. Than I built my block and head. Boosted 15lb. Still no Detonation. Just gotta hook it up rite guyz.. Not no okie dokie rigg and s**t like that.