Turbo vs Supercharger
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u can use nitrous when u r winnin to decrease ur ET and ppl will be like HOLY s**t that guy is fast(only if u got sum other mods too)
i stand by my saying that s/c's are more reliable. they simply put far less thermal stress on the engine, which increases reliability. turbos heat up the entire engine bay, decreasing the life of seals, gaskets, and hoses. they also severly heat up the oil (and if its equipped with a waterjacket, the coolant too) which puts a lot more stress on the engine. engine oil does quite a bit of cooling, and when you have a turbo that compromises the oils ability to cool the engine. so instead of the oil helping to cool the motor, it actually heats up the engine more, putting even more stress on the cooling system. different s/c designs both use engine oil, or in the case of the jrsc, it uses its own internal oil, so it adds no extra heat to either the oil or the coolant. the vortech does use engine oil, but it is not run in the exhaust gases nor does it spin nearly as fast as a turbo, greatly reducing the oil temps.
BLAH TO YOU MIKE............HAHA TURBOS OWN YOU
*bump. more useful info
i have asked alot of people and researched about using nos. i think it is NOT stupid. some things i want to clear out: nitrous oxide by itself is NOT flamable. AND THEY DONT EXPLODE if you have a blow-off safety valve. using nos does not mess up your engine. as nitrous oxide burns, it realease oxygen. read this: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech5.htm l i do not like turbochargers or superchargers. though if i would get one i would go with the supercharger. some of my buddies have had alot of probs with turbos. turbos are great for high end power but not low end. superchargers are great for all-around perfomence. i only like one thing about a turbocharger............it makes a tight azz sound.
I also think just putting Nitrous on your car sux. For one thing it can easily blow your engine. My friend's blew in a week and a half. And the other is that the power you get are short bursts, so you only take advantage of it when you racing not when you driving around. With s/c and turbo you always have the extra power.
I've heard that turbo is more trouble than what its worth for someone who uses their car for daily driving. It requires a lot of maintenance and tuning.
Even though s/c doesn't produce as much power as turbo I would still go with that setup for daily driving.
I've heard that turbo is more trouble than what its worth for someone who uses their car for daily driving. It requires a lot of maintenance and tuning.
Even though s/c doesn't produce as much power as turbo I would still go with that setup for daily driving.
using nos does not blow up your engine if you know how to set it up right. when you add nos, you have to set your feul richer(more fuel) if you set your fuel injector as stock or lean(not enough fuel) then detonation would accur. you must use an octane of 110 or higher to prevent detonation. there's alot of sh-t i have to explan but i to lazy. go do some reseach.
yes, n20 sprayed on a lit candle will blow it out. it needs to be heated and pressurized for the molecules to separate into nitrogen and o2. n2o has 37.5% o2 by volume, and regular air has about 20%. thats how ti makes power, because for the same volume of gas, n2o has much more oxygen t han normal air. also as a gas expands, it absorbs heat, greatly reducing intake tempatures and further increasing the available o2 for combustion. n2o itself doesnt mess up the engine, but when you burn it and dont add enough fuel, the resulting lean condition does hurt the engine. the little boxes that come with n2o systems are meant to be used on a stock engine, and are calibrated as such. so when you add other mods like a cam or a p&p job, or even more so, a turbo or s/c, you have a very good chance of killing the motor. because the electronic boxes are compensating for fuel maps of a stock engine, not for one with mods. they only way to run n2o in conjunction with other internal mods is a dyno tuned programmable ecu like a hondata or aem ems. otherwise you will lean out the motor, and that will kill it.
you are completely wrong about superchargers and s/c's, you have them backwards, at least if its a properly sized turbo. a t3/4 on a stock d15 will make nothing but peak power, yes. but so will a vortech. a ball bearing t25 on the other hand, will make power all across the rpm range. the vw 1.8t motor, with 180 hp makes its torque peake at 1950 rpm. that means the turbo is fully spooled by less than 1950 rpm, and is making good boost from there till redline. that same performance can be achieved in a honda, with a properly set up turbo and a properly tuned ecu. s/c's on the other hand are very specific to the powerband. the vortech barely produces any extra hp below the vtec threshold, and boost peaks at only redline. one rpm below redline, and your not making full boost. thats the drawback of engine driven s/c's. the jrsc makes peak boost lower in the rpm range, but its poor efficency turbines make a lot of heat and not much boost at redline, so they dont increase peak hp by nearly that of a vortech or turbo. but they do produce good low end torque boosts. a properly sized turbo will do both, it will spool quickly to make good low end torque, but it will hold the boost throughout the rev range to maximize peak power.
now obviously nothing will be a perfect solution, because the nature of turbines. they are very very rpm specific devices. a turbine has a very small window of rpm's where it is operating at its max efficency, where the designers of the turbine decided the turbine would spend most of its time. stray much from this rpm, and the turbo becomes less efficent rapidly. efficency in our case is the ability of the turbo to pressurize the air without creating heat (beyond the heat that naturally is produced by compressing air). if a turbo is 70% efficent, for every theoretical 10 lbs of boost it could make, its making 7 lbs of boost and the rest of the energy is lost as heat into the intake charge. why am i tellign you this? because s/c's, due to their being belt driven, can only run at their peak effiecncy rpm when the car is running at the correct rpm, decided by the pulleys. stray from that rpm, and the s/c is making more heat than boost, which is bad for hp and creates detonation. a turbo on the other hand, because it is driven by exhaust gases (actually most of the energy comes from the exhaust gas heat, not the actual gas itself. remember the nitrous cooling effect, well this is the same basic idea. the nitrous released energy as a reaction breakin up the nitrogen from the oxygen. as the exhaust gas expands from a tight space (your exhaust manifold) to an open space (your hopefully free flowing exhaust) it releases lots of energy, and luckily for you, you have a turbine willing to absorb that energy and turn it into boost. the bigger the difference in pressure between the manni and the downpipe, the more boost will be created and the faster the turbo will spool. thats why a 3"+ exhaust is best for turbos) it can run at its peak efficency for much longer periods of time. you also have a wastegate, so you can keep the turbo at its peak rpm, even with an overabundance of exhaust gas. so you can get boost much sooner, and keep it over a longer rpm range with a turbo.
if anyone needs cliffnotes just ask, it may be a bit confusing i just pulled that outta my ass at 3am. enjoy!!
you are completely wrong about superchargers and s/c's, you have them backwards, at least if its a properly sized turbo. a t3/4 on a stock d15 will make nothing but peak power, yes. but so will a vortech. a ball bearing t25 on the other hand, will make power all across the rpm range. the vw 1.8t motor, with 180 hp makes its torque peake at 1950 rpm. that means the turbo is fully spooled by less than 1950 rpm, and is making good boost from there till redline. that same performance can be achieved in a honda, with a properly set up turbo and a properly tuned ecu. s/c's on the other hand are very specific to the powerband. the vortech barely produces any extra hp below the vtec threshold, and boost peaks at only redline. one rpm below redline, and your not making full boost. thats the drawback of engine driven s/c's. the jrsc makes peak boost lower in the rpm range, but its poor efficency turbines make a lot of heat and not much boost at redline, so they dont increase peak hp by nearly that of a vortech or turbo. but they do produce good low end torque boosts. a properly sized turbo will do both, it will spool quickly to make good low end torque, but it will hold the boost throughout the rev range to maximize peak power.
now obviously nothing will be a perfect solution, because the nature of turbines. they are very very rpm specific devices. a turbine has a very small window of rpm's where it is operating at its max efficency, where the designers of the turbine decided the turbine would spend most of its time. stray much from this rpm, and the turbo becomes less efficent rapidly. efficency in our case is the ability of the turbo to pressurize the air without creating heat (beyond the heat that naturally is produced by compressing air). if a turbo is 70% efficent, for every theoretical 10 lbs of boost it could make, its making 7 lbs of boost and the rest of the energy is lost as heat into the intake charge. why am i tellign you this? because s/c's, due to their being belt driven, can only run at their peak effiecncy rpm when the car is running at the correct rpm, decided by the pulleys. stray from that rpm, and the s/c is making more heat than boost, which is bad for hp and creates detonation. a turbo on the other hand, because it is driven by exhaust gases (actually most of the energy comes from the exhaust gas heat, not the actual gas itself. remember the nitrous cooling effect, well this is the same basic idea. the nitrous released energy as a reaction breakin up the nitrogen from the oxygen. as the exhaust gas expands from a tight space (your exhaust manifold) to an open space (your hopefully free flowing exhaust) it releases lots of energy, and luckily for you, you have a turbine willing to absorb that energy and turn it into boost. the bigger the difference in pressure between the manni and the downpipe, the more boost will be created and the faster the turbo will spool. thats why a 3"+ exhaust is best for turbos) it can run at its peak efficency for much longer periods of time. you also have a wastegate, so you can keep the turbo at its peak rpm, even with an overabundance of exhaust gas. so you can get boost much sooner, and keep it over a longer rpm range with a turbo.
if anyone needs cliffnotes just ask, it may be a bit confusing i just pulled that outta my ass at 3am. enjoy!!
i think this should be a sticky too...
good info!
good info!
the colors are just representing intake and exhaust. the red is exhaust coming out of the mani and turning the turbine on the exhaust side which turns the turbine on the intake and compresses the blue. the intake and exhaust sides work almost like opposites. the exhaust is already compressed and enters the turbo from the outside and exits the center as it is decompressed. the intake enters the center on its side and is compressed in the housing and forced out the snail hole(not an actual term, but what i call it)
turbos suk dic at accelarating
this coming from the loser who wants a skyline.. HEY STUPID GUESS WHAT... SKYLINES ARE TURBOCHARGED!!!111!! and guess what. they are fast too. you are a f**kin moron. please go dumb down some other site besides ours.
y is that guy on these forums with a 350z anyway...?
1. For those who think that Nitrous is cheating...I hope you don't use any other modifications in increase the amount of O2 in your vehicle...Forced Induction,CAI, etc...all increase the amount of O2 into the engine.
2. For those who know someone or you have blown up your engine using nitrous...they didn't know what they were doing. The same care has to be taken with nitrous as with any other high HP mods.
These "anti-nitrous" statement are very suprising coming for Civic owners...where all know that we lack torque...those who have studied nitrous know better.
You don't have to use it...but still understand that it's a viable solution for power.
The major downside to nitrous is that unless you are SRing or Dragging...you will not be able to nitrous in any other situation (ie, track, autocross, rally, etc), regulations won't allow it.
C_S
2. For those who know someone or you have blown up your engine using nitrous...they didn't know what they were doing. The same care has to be taken with nitrous as with any other high HP mods.
These "anti-nitrous" statement are very suprising coming for Civic owners...where all know that we lack torque...those who have studied nitrous know better.
You don't have to use it...but still understand that it's a viable solution for power.
The major downside to nitrous is that unless you are SRing or Dragging...you will not be able to nitrous in any other situation (ie, track, autocross, rally, etc), regulations won't allow it.
C_S