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BioHazard the Reaper

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well slmbed civic knows my motor weve been talking and also i not sure if that is reachable but its a goal
 

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Originally posted by "BioHazard"

lol wow i feel some hostilaty...so first off, this is a FAQ page, it goes for all turbos not just there turbos, so the way your saying it you should become their main marketer man, becuase you know so much. So shot that idea to S**t. and lol cylinders have niehter a top nor bottom there have just walls, lol have you even seen a engine?? i believe what your talking about on the domed or flat surface is the head...im not that stupid...lol its quite funny to me since this post of yours is in straight contradiction to your last post, which makes me think you know less than i supposedly know...maybe before you reply you should go back to your last posts so you can not make it look like your idiot who knows nothing and say one thing and then come back and in YOUR own post go on and on about how you previously said is wrong LOL your a FRIGGIN IDIOT, you should go back to your stupid little anime and continue pleasing yourself to little animations of women
forgive me, i interchange the words piston and cylinder, meaning the piston. hope that clears something up. adding a turbo simply doesnt increase engine efficency. when your off boost, your intake manifold is running in a vaccume, just like a n/a motor. the only difference is that there is a turbine in the intake tract, and a turbine in the exhaust tract that are restricting air flow. if an off boost turbo increased efficency, then why dont the super high mpg cars run turbos? dont you think the engineers of the honda insight or toyota prius would slap a turbo on their engines if thats all it took to increase gas mileage? i was not talking about the domed, dished or flat surface of the head, i was refering to the top of the piston. head shapes are hemisphereical, pent roof, semi-hemi, etc. i know nothing? coming from you thats one of the most meaningless things ive ever heard. you say i contradict myself in my posts, ok quote me. what exactly did i contradict? you say that several times, yet you say no specific contradiction. oh and i dont like anime and i dont like cartoons. and im keeping this thread going because your still spitting out totally incorrect information.
 


BSeRiEsHaTcH69

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well im a noobie here but i know a shitload about cars. a turbo will not increase mpg. anytime more air is forced into a cylinder, more fuel MUST be added to compensate or else detonation meaning compression WITHOUT ignition will occur. now lets go to a different for of forced induction, nitrous. a typical dry nitrous kit sprays nitrous into the intake tract and the fuel injectors will compensate for this increase in volume of air. a direct port nitrous injection system will mix fuel and air into a more homogeneous mixture making it dense and easier to burn. i bet you dont know what an octane rating is. octane is the "anti-knock" rating, simply put. it is harder to burn therefore meaning it is harder for an engine to detonate. then you say to yourself, how does it make more power? the ECU senses the higher octane fuel and compensates by increasing the timing, letting the air/fuel mixture get ignitited before the cylinder reaches Top Dead Center on the ignition stroke. nuff said. im done with this dude.
Joe
 

TurboZinc

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Originally posted by "BSeRiEsHaTcH69"

well im a noobie here but i know a shitload about cars. a turbo will not increase mpg. anytime more air is forced into a cylinder, more fuel MUST be added to compensate or else detonation meaning compression WITHOUT ignition will occur. now lets go to a different for of forced induction, nitrous. a typical dry nitrous kit sprays nitrous into the intake tract and the fuel injectors will compensate for this increase in volume of air. a direct port nitrous injection system will mix fuel and air into a more homogeneous mixture making it dense and easier to burn. i bet you dont know what an octane rating is. octane is the "anti-knock" rating, simply put. it is harder to burn therefore meaning it is harder for an engine to detonate. then you say to yourself, how does it make more power? the ECU senses the higher octane fuel and compensates by increasing the timing, letting the air/fuel mixture get ignitited before the cylinder reaches Top Dead Center on the ignition stroke. nuff said. im done with this dude.
Joe
What the f**k did that have to do with anything?
The computer can't sense what the octane rating is on the fuel. The computer will not adjust timing based on the octane rating of the fuel that you decided to use.
 


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doesnt the octane just determine how efficient the fuel will burn?
 

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octane rating is a ratio of octane- 8 molecule carbon chains to heptane- 7 molecule carbon chains. heptane is a very unstable fuel, and it burns very quickly and very easily. octane is far more stable, it takes a high tempature to begin combustion, and it burns (relatively) slowly. the lower the octane rating of a fuel, the faster the mixture burns, and the easier it is ignited. this is contrary to popular belief that higher octane means faster burning. the way higher octane makes higher performance is in the way the engine takes advantage of its resistance to knock. an engine set to run on 87 octane must have retarded ingnition timing and lower compression to safely run the unstable fuel and prevent detonation, which is when the mixture is hot enough and under enough pressure to ignite without the spark plug firing. this is bad. really bad. with higher resistance to detonation, engines can use a higher compression ratio to get more energy out of the charge, run more advanced ignition timing, or run more boost. so if you put 93 octane in a car designed for 87, you actually lose a bit of performance, because the spark timng is optimized for the faster burning fuel. but its extra insurance against detonation.

turbozinc- your semi-correct, the engine does not read the fuels octane to adjust timing. but any car with a knock sensor, and that is optimized for 91+octane, will ping a bit with 87, and the ecu will retard ignition timing a bit to compensate for the faster burn. in effect, changing timing for the octane you put in.
 

TurboZinc

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Originally posted by "handlebarsfsr"

octane rating is a ratio of octane- 8 molecule carbon chains to heptane- 7 molecule carbon chains. heptane is a very unstable fuel, and it burns very quickly and very easily. octane is far more stable, it takes a high tempature to begin combustion, and it burns (relatively) slowly. the lower the octane rating of a fuel, the faster the mixture burns, and the easier it is ignited. this is contrary to popular belief that higher octane means faster burning. the way higher octane makes higher performance is in the way the engine takes advantage of its resistance to knock. an engine set to run on 87 octane must have retarded ingnition timing and lower compression to safely run the unstable fuel and prevent detonation, which is when the mixture is hot enough and under enough pressure to ignite without the spark plug firing. this is bad. really bad. with higher resistance to detonation, engines can use a higher compression ratio to get more energy out of the charge, run more advanced ignition timing, or run more boost. so if you put 93 octane in a car designed for 87, you actually lose a bit of performance, because the spark timng is optimized for the faster burning fuel. but its extra insurance against detonation.

turbozinc- your semi-correct, the engine does not read the fuels octane to adjust timing. but any car with a knock sensor, and that is optimized for 91+octane, will ping a bit with 87, and the ecu will retard ignition timing a bit to compensate for the faster burn. in effect, changing timing for the octane you put in.
Very true, but it retards timing based on the pinging which isn't really reading the octane. I do know what you are saying though and you are right, but that in no way helps performance as mentioned by someone else earlier.
 

terceltyler

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wow dudes thats alota technical s**t read the 1st post but yea so wud a t3/t4 turbo be good with a b18c1?
 

99ExCoupe

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B18C1's are actually really a motor built to be tuned as a N/A motor. B18A/B's love boost, and have good tranny's for turbos. Save your money and get a B18B...and if ya miss vtec that bad....do a B16A2 head swap.
 

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Originally posted by "sik_civic"

wow dudes thats alota technical read the 1st post but yea so wud a t3/t4 turbo be good with a b18c1?
turbo choice depends on your power goals, where you want the powerband to be, and how much your willing to spend. a hybrid on a stock motor is pretty much overkill. those turbos can carry boost efficently to almost 20psi, and they spool up slowly if your only going for say 6-9 psi. a 14b, t25, t28, t3 or any other small turbo would be better choices on a stock bottom end, as they will spool up much quicker and give you max hp and torque lower in the powerband, and carry max boost for more of the rpm range.
 

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Originally posted by "99ExCoupe"

B18C1's are actually really a motor built to be tuned as a N/A motor. B18A/B's love boost, and have good tranny's for turbos. Save your money and get a B18B...and if ya miss vtec that bad....do a B16A2 head swap.
franken motors like ls/vtec raise compression significantly, and dont work very well unless they are fully and professionally built up. if money is a concern, doing a d16z6 or y8 turbo is significantly cheaper than a b, parts are easy to find and are cheaper than b series parts, and if it breaks, you can usually find a new motor for free or for very little money. they also make very good hp and torque. dont rule out the d.
 

99ExCoupe

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Theres only so far you can go with a D series. The B series has alot more going for it...in my opinion. I have seen 9 second civics with a D series...its possible...but I guess I am just not an advocate of building up a D and spending a hell of alot on a motor I really don't like.
 

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Originally posted by "99ExCoupe"

Theres only so far you can go with a D series. The B series has alot more going for it...in my opinion. I have seen 9 second civics with a D series...its possible...but I guess I am just not an advocate of building up a D and spending a hell of alot on a motor I really don't like.
is the d a better motor than the b? no. but unless your building an all out drag car, you can almost always go faster for less money with a d than a b. you dont have to pay to swap a b into a civic (barring the 99-00si) they are cheaper to build, cheaper to find turbos for, and if something breaks, far cheaper to fix or find parts for. you can walk into most shops that do engine swaps and walk out with a complete d series motor and tranny for free, or for very little. b's are very expensive to buy, expensive to fix, and hard to find cheap parts. concidering it runs at least 3 grand for a b16 swap (thats price of motor, shipping, and all the new parts it needs- belts, water pump, clutch, etc) and almost 4 for a b18c, and that only nets you a 14 sec. car. you can run a junkyard turbo kit, made of a hf manifold and dsm turbo parts for well under a grand and be well into the 13's on a d. for the cost to turbo the b, you can build the bottom end of the d up and run more boost. pretty much no matter how you budget it, if you spend the same amount of money on both cars, one with a d and one with a b, the d will almost always be faster.
 

99ExCoupe

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D series parts are hard as hell to find, and most of the companies I have found are just american companies. If you go for a motor like the B16A2, or the B18C1 you are looking at a pretty penny...but if you can do it yourself and find a low miles B18A/B for at the most a grand, you can go anywhere with it. It makes alot more torque, can be made VTEC if you know what you are doing with a head swap...and take care of all the little things most people over look (LS VTEC horror stories.) You could also build the B18B for lower compression and turbo it. You can do many of the same things with the B20. If you are talking about B18C1's and B18C5's and B16 (pretty much any b16) you are looking at a pocket book drain. Thats just my 2 cents, and I won't be swayed to keep a D series...just can't do what I need it for.
 

TurboZinc

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Just curious, but what is wrong with a "just american company"?
 

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if your looking for n/a, the d series is not the motor you want. you can get some hp cheaply n/a, by using d16a6 pistons and rods, which bump c/r up to like 12:1 in a z6 and 12.5:1 in a y8 and some other small tricks, but sohc vtec just doesnt cut it without boost. the point i was making about the d is if your on a budget, which most people are, there are other ways to get hp than doing a b series swap. and if you need stock d series parts, you can find them everywhere for half nothing compared to expensive b series parts. honda has made far more d series motors than b's, and a larger percentage of them have found their way into junkyards, scrap piles, and stashed away in garages. whats wrong with american made internals? just because its not japanese doesnt mean it isnt any good :roll: whatever floats your boat man, but ill take a boosted 200+ whp 13 sec d series over a more expensive 160whp 14 sec n/a b16 or b18c any day.
 


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