Vandalized ignition-can't recover trouble codes 91 Civic

Rich F

New Member
My 91 Civic was stolen and the lock pick they used got stuck so they did some disabling at the ignition. Only 4 wires can be located that are loose. My car latter developed problems but I can't recover the trouble codes. Key first on and the engine light comes on for a few seconds but latter if I run the motor until hot it shuts down and can't be restarted for hours--the engine light does not come on! Also if I turn the key on but don't start the car--all I get is one blink from the trouble code light when I first turn the key ---that's it nothing more. I need to know what engine component is malfunctioning. Here is a list of what got tapped out by the thieves--Seat belt warning light, seat belt alarm, auto seat belt motor, key in ignition alarm, horn --the transmission must be key unlocked- and no codes. What in the region of the ignition switch needs restored- car will start and run just fine except the tranny needing unlocked ( now months latter engine trouble). Two of the disconnected wires are white with a green stripe- all the wires were on the bottom of the ignition switch under were the key inserts. 1991 Honda Civic Sedan
 

Rich F

New Member
There were two fuses blown in that box. Many of my problems cleared up. Still not working: the seat belt alarm, key in ignition alarm, seat belt light not working correctly , then the big one--no codes. Engine light comes on for two seconds when first keyed then that's it-left with ignition on it will not light for fuel injectors nor give any flashes other than 1 flash when first keyed then nothing.
 


Rich F

New Member
Which two fuses were blown?

Did you also test the dash fuses?
Tested the dash long ago and yesterday all fuses intact. Had the horn 20a, and the hazard 10a, they lie next to each other- burnt up front .The seat belt alarm works but only for the shoulder strap, seat belt lite also works but on shoulder only.

Right now it's getting the diagnostics of a new motor issue but no codes yet. If the key alarm is dead good, I hated it!
 

Rich F

New Member
There are 4 lose wires under the ignition switch one pair is white with a green stripe I'll have to go out and check on the other pair but------as long as I don't short the wires the fuses hold. In the figure you posted above there is a drawing-Electric Switch Replacement, on the base of the lock body one can see a small rectangular body under the housing with two wires running to it----they deliberately ripped that unit apart-that is two of the 4 wires that are loose. Only 4 issues I know of still remain from the vandalism, no key alarm, no blink codes,lap belts trigger no light or alarm, engine light only comes on for 2 seconds on initial key up but not otherwise (should code for fuel injectors if keyed up but not running for long-but not anymore).


I have had some motor control issues----(predates vandalism) and now I get a shut down of the motor after it gets good and warm (two months after the vandalism)-may need 4 hours of cool down to restart. The two latter problems are why I need the diagnostic codes.
 


Rich F

New Member
There are 4 lose wires under the ignition switch one pair is white with a green stripe I'll have to go out and check on the other pair but------as long as I don't short the wires the fuses hold. In the figure you posted above there is a drawing-Electric Switch Replacement, on the base of the lock body one can see a small rectangular body under the housing with two wires running to it----they deliberately ripped that unit apart-that is two of the 4 wires that are loose. Only 4 issues I know of still remain from the vandalism, no key alarm, no blink codes,lap belts trigger no light or alarm, engine light only comes on for 2 seconds on initial key up but not otherwise (should code for fuel injectors if keyed up but not running for long-but not anymore).


I have had some motor control issues----(predates vandalism) and now I get a shut down of the motor after it gets good and warm (two months after the vandalism)-may need 4 hours of cool down to restart. The two latter problems are why I need the diagnostic codes.
The other wire pair runs together in a black sheath, blue with white stripe and white with blue stripe. The intent was to get there lock pick back from my ignition lock. Now I can remove my key regardless of tranny shift position and easily-before the key would stick and I had to step on the brake while jiggling the shifter to get the ignition to let go of the key.
 

Rich F

New Member
Engine now dead----tried to get it to die in it's parking spot and now it's dead, at home were I can run some diagnostics.
Ran motor up to full temp, cooling fan running continuous, put it under load to spike the internal heat and shut it off. Latter on restart it ran good for 1 & 1/2 seconds 2 at most and then clean shut down. Timing light shows no spark, can't tell if he injectors are running or not. If the motor were to shut down while on the road it is a clean shut down-no misfires no sputtering- just a clean kill. When it does restart it just starts up like nothing happened.

The dies after restart shows me a good indication that the hot component responsible has to first send a signal to the ECU---- that responds by shutting things down.
 

Rich F

New Member
I don't know how can I check? The vandal pulled the rear seat to open the tank and steal the gas --can it be listened for? I can tell you this it was 3 hours after heat up that I tried to start and it craped out instead- 4 hours latter I retried and started right up. The motor was hardly at all warm at 3 hours but it still craped out. All fuses intact before and after.
 

Rich F

New Member
If I follow you right there should be a voltage sent to the ecu from the relay and that is the one hope other than brain toast. I have stripped the ecu frorm the floor pannel and could test the harness for voltage and ground if you can guide me to the suspect wires /pins. Otherwise I was looking at ebay for ecu's--many of the ads state the ecu may need reprogramming-what about my current unit? What is your input on salvage ecu's? Thanks for all your efforts.
 


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