looking for a OBD2 Auto to OBD1 auto jumper harness
- Thread starter Lopez619
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OBD2A or OBD2B to OBD1? Also, what Automatic Motor is it for? What Automatic Tranny?
I can help you out in sourcing one, but would need more info.
I can help you out in sourcing one, but would need more info.
Lopez619, first of all sorry for getting back to you so late. Now regarding the Automatic OBD2A to OBD1 Jumper Harness, you cannot use it for what you're trying to run. It is not possible to use an OBD1 Automatic ECU to run an OBD2 Automatic Transmission. You will have to use the OBD2A Automatic ECU since you are running the 98 EX Tranny. That ECU will run the OBD1 Motor without any issues; you might get a CEL Light, but there are ways to bypass that (depending on what it is), so if you do get a CEL Light let us know and we'll help you out.
If your situation was the other way around, you had an OBD2 Motor with an OBD1 Automatic Tranny (or both the Motor and Tranny were OBD1) then you could use the Jumper Harness. Remember, in Automatics the ECU also controls the Tranny, so its not like 5-Speed where you can just plug in any Jumper Harness to run your desired ECU. In some cases there is a second "ECU" so to speak that runs the Automatic Transmissions, called the TCM (or TCU). However, this does not apply in this case as here the Automatic Transmission is all ran by the ECU directly without the need of a second control unit.
Hope this helps you out man. I can still help you find the OBD2A to OBD1 Automatic Jumper Harness, but you will not be able to use it unless you run an OBD1 Automatic Transmission as well. It's just easier (for your money's sake) to get the OBD2A Automatic ECU than to get an OBD1 Automatic Tranny along with the OBD1 Automatic ECU.
thanks a lot for your help man so im going to end up having to keep he P2P ECU i have but i am getting the CEL light i havent gotten it checked yet for codes but i will do it soon and let you know. im expecting it to be a bunch of codes since this OBDI motor doesnt have a lot of the sensors that the OBDII ecu asks for.
No problem and yeah you'll have CEL Codes, but some can be bypassed just depends on what they are. Take the car to Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts, they can connect the ECU Reader there since the ECU is OBD2 and let you know which codes are showing up. They do that for free too.
Another thing you can if you want to check the Codes yourself is jump the 2 wire plug that's by the ECU. Behind the Passenger Side Kick Panel. Then you will be able to read the CEL Lights by blinks. 1 Long Blink is ten, 1 Fast Blink is one. That's Diagnostic Mode.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Another thing you can if you want to check the Codes yourself is jump the 2 wire plug that's by the ECU. Behind the Passenger Side Kick Panel. Then you will be able to read the CEL Lights by blinks. 1 Long Blink is ten, 1 Fast Blink is one. That's Diagnostic Mode.
Good luck and keep us posted!
just went to auto zone and i got these codes
P0505-IAC circuit condition or idle speed higher/lower than expected
P1337-CSF sensor no signal
PO325-Knock sensor circuit malfunction
i dont know why the car is throwing P1337 because i switched out oil pumps from my Y8 to the D15b so i could have this sensor.
once again thanks a lot.
P0505-IAC circuit condition or idle speed higher/lower than expected
P1337-CSF sensor no signal
PO325-Knock sensor circuit malfunction
i dont know why the car is throwing P1337 because i switched out oil pumps from my Y8 to the D15b so i could have this sensor.
once again thanks a lot.
P0505 is the IACV Valve. Are you having Idling issues (jumpy idle, etc)? If so, remove the IACV, clean the screen with Carb Cleaner and reinstall. Remove battery terminal for 15 secs, reconnect and start the car, the issue should be fixed. If you do not have Idling Issues make sure its connected properly. Also, before removing it and cleaning it first try clearing the Code and see if it comes back.
PO325 is the Knock Sensor. The JDM D15B Motor does not have a Knock Sensor, but your ECU (P2P) is looking for it as the Old D16Y8 Motor did have a Knock Sensor. You will have to live with this one, as there is not much you can do here. However, I've heard that some people have bypassed the Knock Sensor CEL Light by just connecting the Knock Sensor from the D16Y8 Motor to the Engine Harness Plug and securing it to the Block or Ground. Try that and see if that solves your CEL Light.
P1337 is the Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor (CSF or CKF). You need to make sure its working properly. Below are the procedures for testing this sensor and making sure it works correctly, you will need a Digital Multimeter (DMM). Before you do all those steps though, try clearing the Code and see if it comes back. If you swapped the Oil Pump and it was working fine before then it should not come back, but it might've gotten damaged, so if it comes back try the steps below to troubleshoot ...
- Danny
PO325 is the Knock Sensor. The JDM D15B Motor does not have a Knock Sensor, but your ECU (P2P) is looking for it as the Old D16Y8 Motor did have a Knock Sensor. You will have to live with this one, as there is not much you can do here. However, I've heard that some people have bypassed the Knock Sensor CEL Light by just connecting the Knock Sensor from the D16Y8 Motor to the Engine Harness Plug and securing it to the Block or Ground. Try that and see if that solves your CEL Light.
P1337 is the Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor (CSF or CKF). You need to make sure its working properly. Below are the procedures for testing this sensor and making sure it works correctly, you will need a Digital Multimeter (DMM). Before you do all those steps though, try clearing the Code and see if it comes back. If you swapped the Oil Pump and it was working fine before then it should not come back, but it might've gotten damaged, so if it comes back try the steps below to troubleshoot ...
- Set the DMM to Ohms and check for resistance between Pins 1 and Pins 3 of the CSF Sensor. It should read between 1.6k Ohms to 3.2k Ohms, if its not that then replace the Sensor.
- Set the DMM to Volts and check for Ground. One end to the CFK Sensor Pin 1 and the other to Chassis Ground. Then check from the CFK Sensor Pin 3 to Chassis Ground. Both times it should be open, if there is continuity, then replace the Sensor.
- Set the DMM to Ohms again and measure the resistance between C1 and C11 on the ECU Harness Side (Passenger Side Kick Panel). If there isn't 1.6k Ohms to 3.2k Ohms then there is an Open wire somewhere and you need to fix it.
- Lastly, set the DMM to Volts and check for Ground. One end to C1on the ECU Harness Side and the other end to Chassis Ground. If there is continuity then there's a short somewhere and it should be fixed.
- Danny
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