1.6L Mystery

ej2rey

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This is the motor I have...
Damn! I don't see the vtec solenoid. Am starting to think the person b4 you replaced the head and instead of slapping on a y8 head they slapped a y7 head.
 


zb12691

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thats a y8 mani. its just behind the valve cover so u cant see it. i hope....
 

cgpEJ6

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You can't see the solenoid but you can see the cutout in the top left, Y7's don't have that. It's not a good picture for what we are looking for. Why don't you think it has VTEC?
 


ej2rey

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thats a y8 mani. its just behind the valve cover so u cant see it. i hope....
Anyone can slap a y8 mani on a y7 head...



You can't see the solenoid but you can see the cutout in the top left, Y7's don't have that. It's not a good picture for what we are looking for. Why don't you think it has VTEC?
What cutout? And from that angle you should be able to see the solenoid perfectly.

Anyways there's not enough info on this motor to actually evaluate.

All I can tell you bro just go with your instincs and do the pressure test. Go to autozone and rent the pressure tester. Its screws on to where the banjo screw is. Just remove the screw and screw in the tester. Turn the key without turning the car and chck the pressure and tell us what's up.
 

zb12691

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after hooking up the fuel pressure gauge

Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and pinched. If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure. Pressure should be: 260 - 310 kPa (2.7 - 3.2 kgf/cm², 38 - 46 psi)

Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. Pressure should be: 200 - 250 kPa (2.0 - 2.5 kgf/cm², 28 - 36 psi)

--Thats how honda says to test it--
 

JohnS.

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Why are people arguing whether or not its a VTEC engine when he's not trying to figure out if it's a VTEC or not?
 

ej2rey

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Why are people arguing whether or not its a VTEC engine when he's not trying to figure out if it's a VTEC or not?
Bcus bro. To be able to know what's wrong with the motor we gotta evaluate it. We gotta know all the info on what's up with the motor. It supposed to be a vtec motor in that car. So if sum one swapped it out or did anything to it and did not do it right then we can zero out a few things and jump on to other ideas.

That guy at first didn't even know what motor he had in his car nor that his car was supposed to be vtec. So how are we gonna help him if the owner himself doesn't even know that.

Swapping the motor for another y8 and not done right can create problems, swapping out another motor in that's not vtec but still has vtec ecu, wiring ect can create problem, some one swapping out the head cus it went bad and didn't put a y8 head can create problem ect. So many possibilities bro. That's why we need to nerrow it down as much as we can.
 

ej2rey

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Btw the haynes manual says
with the vacuum disconnected it supposed to be 40 to 47psi and with the vacuum connected 31 to 38psi.

Anyways. Any work on that pressure bro?
 

Ronco85

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Okay well I will have to check on the pressure tomorrow, and I will get a top left view of the motor for you guys, appreciate the help, hope you can help me figure it out, I feel like an idiot but like I said, I work on GM vehicles so it's a little different.
 

Ronco85

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Well here's the other view of the motor...

And it seems I don't have a "banjo" bolt to check pressure...
 

ej2rey

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Definitely a vetc motor.
No banjo bolt no problem. Just unscrew that bolt with the fitting and screw in the pressure tester on there. The tester should come with extra fitting to fit that thread.
 

Ronco85

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Cool, thanx ej2rey....I will hook up the pressure tester tonight and see what I get......
 

guachi

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There is the solenoid its a VTEC engine definetly, post your results after you get the pressure readings.
 

Ronco85

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Alright my readings for the pressure was 35psi while running so I'm assuming good, plus reving it took it to about 42 psi MAX. Ordered a front and rear o2 sensor (pretty penny) and just going to installl those and see what happens...I figure I need those regardless if thats the problem or not, plus it wouldn't hurt. It'll at least take care of that CEL light, with the adapter for the rear one of course. :D
 

ej2rey

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Yeah that's perfect pressure.
But yeah that was a good idea getting the o2 sensors. I didn't know they were so sensitive but mayb in your case they are.
Hope the o2 fix the problem.
 

guachi

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Yeah that's perfect pressure.
But yeah that was a good idea getting the o2 sensors. I didn't know they were so sensitive but mayb in your case they are.
Hope the o2 fix the problem.
The readings are ok, so you know that's not the issue, as for the O2 sensors, yes they can influence a lot more than what you think, i was not getting the right amount of power on my car until i changed the O2 sensors, so believe it or not it could be helpful.
 

ej2rey

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^^ yeah am guessing on obd2 tho. Cus on my z6 when I ran without o2 all I noticed was that I wasted a lil more fuel and my car back fired a lot. But no loss in power tho.

But yeah its always good to have working o2's
 


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