1999 civic hatchback with electrical problems

gt6

New Member
Hello,

I am new to the forums and was suggested to post here about my electrical problems with some hope of trouble shooting tips from the experts. =)

My '99 automatic civic is my daily driver with about 225,000km. It is stock without any kinds of modification, even has the cassette radio.
My electrical troubles all started a few weeks ago when I noticed that when I activated the wipers, my radio sound would fade, like I lost signal. It would come back as soon the wiper finished it cycle. Didn't really think much of it.
Then last week on my way home from work while driving down the road, the radio started to crackle a little, then I heard a little "pop" followed by my speedometer needle plunging to zero and check engine light coming on. Other than that the car ran fine, or so I thought. When I pulled into the parking lot when getting home I noticed that my power windows went down OK but were painfully slow going up. My wipers traveled very slow across the windshield (and rear window) at any setting. Also the car was at times idling at 250rpm. Once I gave it gas there was no stutter and cruising speed is fine.
That popping sound I heard turned out to be the alternator/speedo fuse.
I replaced it and the next day drove back to work. The speedo worked the entire way there, but I still had the slow wipers, windows and crappy idle (stalling sometimes at a stop). It idles fine at start up. Then when I left work just after I started the car I heard that "pop" again and sure enough the fuse was blown.
WIth no more fuses left I went to work the next day without speedo. As I drove I realized that my tach needle would intermittently drop to zero then spring back up. I noticed that when I tapped on the wipers the tach needle would drop to zero then spring back up after the wiper cycle was over. I would get the same results if I turned my headlights of and on.

I am guessing that there is a short somewhere, but would help if some one could point me in the right direction?
By the way I get the following CEL codes : 41, 17, 65, 92
I checked the C115 connector by the air intake bracket and that seems to be OK.
I will also add that it had been extremely rainy and humid here (more than usual). Could this lead to a short somewhere where water may have a tendency to collect?

THanks for any help or suggestions!:D
 

RonJ

Banned
What work was done a few months ago?

After installing a new fuse 15, how quickly after starting the engine before fuse 15 blows? Will the fuse blow if you turn the key to ON(II) without starting the engine?
 


gt6

New Member
What work was done a few months ago?

After installing a new fuse 15, how quickly after starting the engine before fuse 15 blows? Will the fuse blow if you turn the key to ON(II) without starting the engine?
The work done was only an oil change. I will replace the fuse this evening and report back. I have also noticed that each time I start the car it struggles more and more like a dying battery ( it is only 1yr old). I suppose that the short is draining my battery? Or can the blown fuse have something to do with it?
 

Wreckless Hype

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
Places like advanced auto or autozone will generally check batteries for free, they'll hook them up and make sure they charge properly or if the cells are dead.
 

RonJ

Banned
I have also noticed that each time I start the car it struggles more and more like a dying battery ( it is only 1yr old). I suppose that the short is draining my battery? Or can the blown fuse have something to do with it?
It's the blown fuse 15. One of the components protected by fuse 15 is the voltage regulator in the alternator. For now, just charge the battery.
 

gt6

New Member
I put a new fuse in this afternoon before heading home (about a 45 min drive). Of course murphy's law would have it that the fuse did not blow! So I cannot report back.
Everything worked fine on the drive back except when I pulled off the highway, my idle was still a little shaky at times. But noticeably better than before.

Since the fuse did not blow, would that mean that at least my battery got a recharge from the alternator? I don't have battery charger at home, so right now I have no way to charge it.
This weekend I will try to check the wiring around the O2 sensors just to see.

Thanks for the tech support Ron.
I will keep you posted.
 

RonJ

Banned
Since the fuse did not blow, would that mean that at least my battery got a recharge from the alternator?
Yep

This weekend I will try to check the wiring around the O2 sensors just to see.

Thanks for the tech support Ron.
:thumbs up

The O2 sensor heater elements, the voltage regulator in the alternator, and the corresponding power wires are common causes for blowing fuse 15.
 

gt6

New Member
Well crappy weather last weekend prevented me from doing any further trouble shooting. I don't have a garage.
So the fuse still hasn't blown after a week of driving which is a good thing and a bad thing at the same time I guess. This morning the check engine light went out after start up. Up until then the light has been on the whole time since the first fuse blew.

I though that the light would remain lit until the errors were cleared from the ECM memory?

Sorry for the noob questions, but the only computer in my last car was the driver. :D
 


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