'93 ex coupe with d15b non vtec ?????

Dirttypretty

New Member
Ok so I've had this car sitting there for about 8 months. Before that I had replaced the fuel pump,fuel filter,battery,alternator,distributor,spark plugs,and main relay. It ran for a while but out of no where the fuel pump stopped priming. It would just prime when it wanted. Wondering what year of engine I have so I can gap the plugs and also wondering what else it may be that's causing the fuel pump to not prime anymore even though the engine is turning over etc. which ecu should I have with it?? Any help would be great.
 

5SpeedEJ6

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I guess my first question is why replace all of that, and then let the car sit for so long?
 


Dirttypretty

New Member
5SpeedEJ6 said:
I guess my first question is why replace all of that, and then let the car sit for so long?
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because my other car was in the shop so I wanted the 93 to run good and kind of be my weekday ride. But one day it was running fine,tried to start it and the fuel pump didn't prime. started replacing all that stuff and it would work then finally just couldn't hear the pump prime then my other car got fixed. No idea where to go from here

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx said:
How do we know what year engine it is, you haven't given us any numbers off of it. Why do you think it isn't the original?
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Off the engine block? It's d15b 3035944. I don't think it's the original because a few people had owned it before me and one time some guy stopped by and said they had switched the engine 1-2 times. I should look up the vehicle vin and see what kind of engine and all it takes and if it doesn't match then go from there.
 


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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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The date stamp is on the front of the engine just above the header, it will be a couple circle looking things with the month and year on it, that is if it is the original head. It won't matter anyway, d series use 99% of the same components within the same OBD vintage.
 

Dirttypretty

New Member
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx said:
The date stamp is on the front of the engine just above the header, it will be a couple circle looking things with the month and year on it, that is if it is the original head. It won't matter anyway, d series use 99% of the same components within the same OBD vintage.
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So I should be ok if it's all obd1 and what not? Sorry if that's a stupid question,don't know too much about cars. Obviously.
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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As far as the ancillary things, yeah you should be fine, but you should still find out exactly which engine you have. That stamp is on the head as well, usually starts with a P (example p28, pm7 etc). That will tell you exactly what engine you have and what ecu to run. I don't think that is your issue, it sounds like you have an issue in the relay to the pump somewhere or your pump is dying.
 

Dirttypretty

New Member
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx said:
As far as the ancillary things, yeah you should be fine, but you should still find out exactly which engine you have. That stamp is on the head as well, usually starts with a P (example p28, pm7 etc). That will tell you exactly what engine you have and what ecu to run. I don't think that is your issue, it sounds like you have an issue in the relay to the pump somewhere or your pump is dying.
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Ok thanks. So from the pump to relay,how would I check that exactly?
 

Dirttypretty

New Member
I did. Closest thing I came up with was a 96 engine. So I'll just go with that. Didn't find anything with the 96 stamp but the other part yes. Checked wires and everything was fine. Ran the pump to ground and it primed but car still didn't start.
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
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D16y4 engine, probably the same as our D16y7. Are you sure there is fuel going to the rail? Not to mention you car is running an OBD2 enging in an OBD1 chassis.
 

Dirttypretty

New Member
saabguy said:
Had the same issue turned out it was the main relay again and the PCM.

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That's what I was thinking. The relay is new. Bought it the car ran for a month and since then it's been parked. Heard the fuel pump prime but still won't turn over. Hopefully I can find one for cheap to see if that's what it is.
 

CaptainJochem

Respected
If you did replace all of those parts (main relay, filters, etc.) and it still isn't firing it could possibly be your crank angle sensor. It is quite possible that it is clogged or closed due to a fault and therefore 'tricks' the ECU which disables more fuel to be pumped. If you did change the main relay, and it is working then this seems to be a possibility to me. You can learn more about how the main relay works via this link, useful stuff!

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/
 

Dirttypretty

New Member
CaptainJochem said:
If you did replace all of those parts (main relay, filters, etc.) and it still isn't firing it could possibly be your crank angle sensor. It is quite possible that it is clogged or closed due to a fault and therefore 'tricks' the ECU which disables more fuel to be pumped. If you did change the main relay, and it is working then this seems to be a possibility to me. You can learn more about how the main relay works via this link, useful stuff!

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/
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Ok thanks. It's a 93 civic with a 96 engine. So I'm not sure if that sensor would be in distributor or by the timing belt.

Dirttypretty said:
Ok thanks. It's a 93 civic with a 96 engine. So I'm not sure if that sensor would be in distributor or by the timing belt.
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I tried pulling codes yesterday and the cel light just stayed on.
 
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CaptainJochem

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Hmmm... That's something you'd have to look in the forums for, I can't give a definite answer on that one. But it is still a D series engine and I don't think Honda would have changed that engine up too much for the 6th gen. Civic. Maybe try to ask about this sensor and the symptoms in the 6th gen. forums?
 

XpL0d3r

I had a Civic once.
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Is the CEL on even when you don't have the service connector jumped? Or only when it is? I ask because if it's always on, you have code 0
 

Diana Nam

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the crank angle sensor is only needed for obd2 chassis car/obd2 ecu. you have obd2 engine in a obd1 chassis and most have likely been converted to obd1 and use obd1 ecu

code 0 would be bad ecu/ecm
 
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