96 civic cx build b20b all motor nonvtec

khmernese

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Sup guys, first build thread I've ever done . So I apologize for future crappiness :p


Just Picked up a beat up hatch with a d15b7 . Not wired in or anything so it doesnt run. Damaged front end and rough paint.







Plans with this

Repaint to a candy purple or some sort
Us optional/ edm vti lips
Domani/el front end conversion
B20b p8r all motor
Gsr transmission
Lowered on coilovers
Wheels
Rear disc brakes

At final results( when I'm completely done investing in this ) I'm hoping to reach power goals in the 250s
So ordering many parts as we speak. Problem is no time to do it :/ but I will keep ya posted

Also if anyone knows where I could get a domani or el front in conversion for cheap let me know !
 

CHILD

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those image tage are jacked up.

can the stock p8r head even flow enough to reach those power goals?
 


khmernese

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yeahhhhh ill fix that

well i havent decided or researched enough to see how i would reach that goal. the flow is what had me worried. i figured i could get it ported enough with itb to get near it. it be great to reach 250, but i'd still be satisfied in 210s, i like to put out big goals :P

its gonna be a long slow build. probably looking at 2 years haha
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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yeahhhhh ill fix that

well i havent decided or researched enough to see how i would reach that goal. the flow is what had me worried. i figured i could get it ported enough with itb to get near it. it be great to reach 250, but i'd still be satisfied in 210s, i like to put out big goals :P

its gonna be a long slow build. probably looking at 2 years haha
Youre going to need some insane cams and compression, the only thing you have going for you is the vtec sized valves in the P8R head.
 


khmernese

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Yup I was aware of that. Hoping as I go through this someone with experiences or knowledge will shed some like on this. So my outlined plan is:
High comp pistons, 12.5
Crower cams 404/405 ( still small compared to vtec cams :( )
Shot peen rods w/ arp hardware
Crower valve train
Port n polish
Individual throttle bodies
And others but that's just what I've gotten off my head
 

khmernese

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Bought a used radiator support front bumper and fender today :p

Besides a drill bit, is there an easier and faster way to remove spot welds?
 

crash!

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Youre going to need some insane cams and compression, the only thing you have going for you is the vtec sized valves in the P8R head.
This. My buddy did a fully built high compression 2.0l ITR and he got some big ass cams and he may or may not reach 210 to the wheels.

Instead of candy purple, you should do dark amethyst pearl ;)

And I just wanna know, why are you doing an all motor NON-VTEC? What's your logic there?
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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This. My buddy did a fully built high compression 2.0l ITR and he got some big ass cams and he may or may not reach 210 to the wheels.

Instead of candy purple, you should do dark amethyst pearl ;)

And I just wanna know, why are you doing an all motor NON-VTEC? What's your logic there?
Everything being equal, I think I would do a non vtec head. VTEC just allows for two cam profiles, but in an all out race setup where the car never sees lower then 6k rpms during a run whats the point of having both?

But anything driven on the street (unless you like to run e85 or c16 all the time) then a VTEC setup is more practical, in the realm of making any serious power.
 

khmernese

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This. My buddy did a fully built high compression 2.0l ITR and he got some big ass cams and he may or may not reach 210 to the wheels.

Instead of candy purple, you should do dark amethyst pearl ;)

And I just wanna know, why are you doing an all motor NON-VTEC? What's your logic there?
I thought about doing DAP, but it i think it was too dark for me. DAP is an oem color anyways

Some reason for doing non vtec is because there is not many out there. Also, bloodshot was on the money. I don't plan on going over 6000/7000 rpm most of the time it probably won't even see past 6500 plus revving high wasn't my thing. Why do I have to go to vtec to make power? My aim is actually low end and mid range power. This reason would make it quite impossible for a Honda to achieve 250.
Then there's the tq. As I've seen in some builds , swapping on a vtec head loses some torque. May not be much to some. But torque is torque to me, id like to keep as much of it as possible. I know swapping vtec on would help me achieved goal. But my goals is near impossible, I just have a habit of setting unrealistic goals
. I may have to stroke this motor out.
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

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I thought about doing DAP, but it i think it was too dark for me. DAP is an oem color anyways

Some reason for doing non vtec is because there is not many out there. Also, bloodshot was on the money. I don't plan on going over 6000/7000 rpm most of the time it probably won't even see past 6500 plus revving high wasn't my thing. Why do I have to go to vtec to make power? My aim is actually low end and mid range power. This reason would make it quite impossible for a Honda to achieve 250.
Then there's the tq. As I've seen in some builds , swapping on a vtec head loses some torque. May not be much to some. But torque is torque to me, id like to keep as much of it as possible. I know swapping vtec on would help me achieved goal. But my goals is near impossible, I just have a habit of setting unrealistic goals
. I may have to stroke this motor out.
I'm always on the money :thumbs up

Except I meant what I said in the exact opposite sense.

Street/Moderate track car: VTEC
All out race : No vtec and I better be able to count each cylinder when it fires.
 

CHILD

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Why do I have to go to vtec to make power? My aim is actually low end and mid range power. This reason would make it quite impossible for a Honda to achieve 250.
Then there's the tq. As I've seen in some builds , swapping on a vtec head loses some torque. May not be much to some. But torque is torque to me, id like to keep as much of it as possible. I know swapping vtec on would help me achieved goal.
Just because you use a vtec head, doesn't mean you have to utilize the vtec function. The vtec heads flow more air. The loss of torque you've seen is from the intake manifold changes. The longer runners on the b20 intake manifold increase torque. You can also retain torque through your camshaft profiles.
 

crash!

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Just because you use a vtec head, doesn't mean you have to utilize the vtec function. The vtec heads flow more air. The loss of torque you've seen is from the intake manifold changes. The longer runners on the b20 intake manifold increase torque. You can also retain torque through your camshaft profiles.
This. You can always tweak things here and there to gain what you've lost. High end vs. torque and vice versa.
 

khmernese

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Just because you use a vtec head, doesn't mean you have to utilize the vtec function. The vtec heads flow more air. The loss of torque you've seen is from the intake manifold changes. The longer runners on the b20 intake manifold increase torque. You can also retain torque through your camshaft profiles.
This. You can always tweak things here and there to gain what you've lost. High end vs. torque and vice versa.
i can see what you mean there, i have considered this before, but then i began to think if i do this i might as well use the vtec? i mean ill be paying for vtec cams and not even using its vtec profile. also wouldnt swapping heads make this less reliable/durable because its not exactly design for it? i know if its done right and quality parts and blah blah but how can you be so sure?
i didnt think the intake manifold could make such a significant drop in torque. i honestly thought it had to do mostly because of the different size combustion chamber and some play from the IM,


yay longblock
 

CHILD

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i can see what you mean there, i have considered this before, but then i began to think if i do this i might as well use the vtec? i mean ill be paying for vtec cams and not even using its vtec profile. also wouldnt swapping heads make this less reliable/durable because its not exactly design for it? i know if its done right and quality parts and blah blah but how can you be so sure?
i didnt think the intake manifold could make such a significant drop in torque. i honestly thought it had to do mostly because of the different size combustion chamber and some play from the IM,
like blood was saying, using a vtec head gives you the option to utilize vtec or not. If you care about retaining some daily driving fuel economy, then use the vtec as intended and tune it for max power up top and tune for great A/F ratios on the low profile. If you want an all out race setup, tune the car to run on only the high cam profile throughout the rev range. VTEC killer cams were designed with this in mind.

The reliability aspect of swapping to a vtec head is just like you said, based on the quality of the build. The best way to be sure, is to do it yourself and check tolerances and torque specs, and check em again and then go. There are plenty of people who build them and they last a really long time. Plus the straight forward vtec conversion kits make it much easier than in the past
 

crash!

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There's a reason why LSVTECs and B20VTECs are everywhere. They can be just as reliable. As you said, just do it right and don't half ass it.
 

khmernese

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I figured they were everywhere because of the "bandwagon". Majority of them half-assed lol. At least where I'm from anyways.
Ok so thanks for the feedback definitely will add a vtec head later in the end. Again this build Is not happening all at once or within a few months or so. My plans are about a 2 year period. when I get my sti, final phases or build will begin. ;p
Reason for this is because my gf just traded in her car for a new Kia optima and I'm helping pay for it. Then I can get my sti, meanwhile I'll have my honda(also dd) to tinker with.
 


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