darian_hagen_9
New Member
hey guys I hope I posted this in the right section, but anyways here we go..
first off ill post the specs of my car
98 acura EL
ran a D16y8 since i had it..
swapped in a fresh rebuilt B18a1 with stage 3 clutch and unknown hydro trans (no stickers or labels on it)
used an OBD2A engine harness from the D16Y8, and an OBD2a P75 5 speed LS computer
wired the dizzy and injector plugs from the obd1 harness onto the obd2a harness
got a code for the vss when we plugged the scanner in
car is in limp mode
battery light comes on (we figure bad alternator regulator, i will be putting another obd2 alternator on it)
speedo is either reading zero, or going all over the place and wrapping itself around
odometer is constantly racking up kms at a steady pace
tach is the same as the speedo, just going crazy
so upon completing the swap, car wouldnt start and had to fix a bad ground, which allowed the car to run upon fixing it, ignition timing was off so we lined that back up to factory specs, which did make it run a little smoother, but the idle is still a little lopey.
tps and map are not switched, i did try switching them to see if it ran better, but when you hit the gas it would bog out and die so i switched it back
the car has been in limp mode since it was first started, rev limiter is at 3500 rpm.
i did try the CKF bypass trick as well but that doesnt seem to make any kind of difference at all..
here are the links to the bypass trick and distributor wiring that i used, and the injector plugs wires were just color matched to the harness
distributor wiring
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd2to1distributor.jpg
(i was told by a honda technician to cut the blue tach signal wire, havent tried it yet)
ckf bypass
http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm
i did also try doing what is highlighted in red, which doesnt make sense to me because if you de-pin it from the ecu, then isnt there no signal being read at all? and wouldnt that have the same effect as not doing the bypass at all?
just looking for anything that may get my car back on the road, it is driveable, but at the same time unbearable and i dont want to hurt the car by driving it in its current state, any help is much appreciated and thanks in advance guys!
first off ill post the specs of my car
98 acura EL
ran a D16y8 since i had it..
swapped in a fresh rebuilt B18a1 with stage 3 clutch and unknown hydro trans (no stickers or labels on it)
used an OBD2A engine harness from the D16Y8, and an OBD2a P75 5 speed LS computer
wired the dizzy and injector plugs from the obd1 harness onto the obd2a harness
got a code for the vss when we plugged the scanner in
car is in limp mode
battery light comes on (we figure bad alternator regulator, i will be putting another obd2 alternator on it)
speedo is either reading zero, or going all over the place and wrapping itself around
odometer is constantly racking up kms at a steady pace
tach is the same as the speedo, just going crazy
so upon completing the swap, car wouldnt start and had to fix a bad ground, which allowed the car to run upon fixing it, ignition timing was off so we lined that back up to factory specs, which did make it run a little smoother, but the idle is still a little lopey.
tps and map are not switched, i did try switching them to see if it ran better, but when you hit the gas it would bog out and die so i switched it back
the car has been in limp mode since it was first started, rev limiter is at 3500 rpm.
i did try the CKF bypass trick as well but that doesnt seem to make any kind of difference at all..
here are the links to the bypass trick and distributor wiring that i used, and the injector plugs wires were just color matched to the harness
distributor wiring
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd2to1distributor.jpg
(i was told by a honda technician to cut the blue tach signal wire, havent tried it yet)
ckf bypass
http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm
i did also try doing what is highlighted in red, which doesnt make sense to me because if you de-pin it from the ecu, then isnt there no signal being read at all? and wouldnt that have the same effect as not doing the bypass at all?
just looking for anything that may get my car back on the road, it is driveable, but at the same time unbearable and i dont want to hurt the car by driving it in its current state, any help is much appreciated and thanks in advance guys!
