I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX coupe, the check engine light is on. I've been to Auto Zone and they have tested it for me and told me it was the alternator. While Im driving, and stepping on the brakes, the lights on my dash and the headlights dim, its quite noticable. Every so often, my motor wants to shut off but doesnt. Or it'll idle really low. Can anyone tell me if it is the alternator that is bad? I've also had the battery checked, it was fully charged. All the wiring is good to. Someone please help me, I want this fixed before it just stops working. I really need my car!
Alternator, random misfire, running lean, and clacking noise
- Thread starter janedoe
- Start date
X2 there are a ton of kids on here who ask the same questions man nobody is talking s**t, whether it's slight criticism or an attitude, it's to help. Change your alternator I would suggest a new one but if you don't have the few hundred I have one for cheap or get a junkyard one. But if the alt is bad then the battery will eventually die due to lack of charge then you ( which by your recent remarks) will not know your battery is dead and crank your starter for twenty mins trying to start it and kill your starter solenoid. Start from what you know. Then work your way out.
RonJ
Banned
Don't think about replacing the alternator until you check 7.5A fuse 15 under the dash and pull the CEL codes. The problem detailed in the TSB I posted is very common, so chase this possibility before doing anything else. See diagram for fuse location.
RonJ
Banned
Autozone and even mechanics can get a diagnosis wrong. It's like going to a doctor who says you may die in 6 months. Are you going to accept this diagnosis or look for a second opinion?
I used to work at autozone as a part-time gig and we have a special machine to test the alternator so there's no guess work. Also from my experience the people who had bad alternators didn't even show cel's. So there may be two problems here. You need to go back to autozone have them check the alternator one more time to make sure it is bad and also have them pull up your cel codes. Just ask them to give you a print out of the codes.
RonJ
Banned
Just because the alternator tests bad doesn't necessarily mean the alternator needs to be replaced. In the OP's case, a blown 7.5A fuse 15, which is the alternator fuse, will also cause a charge system problem. However, the fix is not to replace the alternator but to install a good fuse and fix the short that caused the fuse to blow. Read the TSB that I posted. This also explains the connection between CEL codes and a blown fuse 15.
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Considering a fuse is going to be 100-1000 times cheaper to replace than an alternator, I think it is well worth the while to spend the 30 seconds (three minutes, if you don't know what you're doing) to check or replace the fuse.
Thanks a bunch Ron J, I'll have them check it again tomorrow and I'll post the CEL codes aswell. I really apprectiate the advice!Don't think about replacing the alternator until you check 7.5A fuse 15 under the dash and pull the CEL codes. The problem detailed in the TSB I posted is very common, so chase this possibility before doing anything else. See diagram for fuse location.
RonJ
Banned
By the way, there is also a way to pull CEL codes at home using the jumper wire method.
Well I just got backk from Auto Zone, and I got the codes. This is where I start to get really scared!
P1300
aa1- check ignition system for faults
aa2- check for rich or lean air fuel ratio
aa3- check for mechanical condition
P0303
aa1- vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
aa2- ignition system concern
aa3- blocked/faulty fuel injector
aa4- engine mechanical condition
P0171
aa1- large vacuum leak
aa2- fuel system concern
aa3- igntion system concern
aa4- MAF sensor faulty
aa5- HO2S/AF ratio sensor fault
This is what the guy there printed out for me. I hope this isnt a big budget for me!
P1300
aa1- check ignition system for faults
aa2- check for rich or lean air fuel ratio
aa3- check for mechanical condition
P0303
aa1- vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
aa2- ignition system concern
aa3- blocked/faulty fuel injector
aa4- engine mechanical condition
P0171
aa1- large vacuum leak
aa2- fuel system concern
aa3- igntion system concern
aa4- MAF sensor faulty
aa5- HO2S/AF ratio sensor fault
This is what the guy there printed out for me. I hope this isnt a big budget for me!
RonJ
Banned
None of these CEL codes is associated with the TSB I posted. Nevertheless, still check whether fuse 15 is blown. If not, then the alternator may need to be replaced.
P1300 is the most serious code and indicates random misfires. Start by checking the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. If the latter items are old, replacing them may solve the random misfire problem, as well as eliminate codes P0303 and P0171. This relatively simple work could be done yourself to save money.
How would I know if any of them are bad? Would the spark plugs be broken or something? And which is the rotor? Is this inside the distributer cap? I'll check for the fuse and the items you've posted tomorrow. I'll let you know Ron J, thanks a million!
RonJ
Banned
How old are these key ignition system components? If you don't know, remove them and post clear pictures of the tips of the plugs, the inside of the cap, and the contact area on the side of the rotor. Yes, the rotor is inside the distributor. Also post a picture of the distributor with the cap removed. If you don't know how old the plug wires are, just replace them.
How would I know if any of them are bad? Would the spark plugs be broken or something? And which is the rotor? Is this inside the distributer cap? I'll check for the fuse and the items you've posted tomorrow. I'll let you know Ron J, thanks a million!
lethal6
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To be completely honest, all of the things RonJ said to check are really cheap. I personally wouldn't even bother and would just out right replace them. I do a tune up on EVERY used car I buy. Usually before it even sees the road again. You can't trust people to do the maintenance and you would be surprised at how lazy others are when it comes to simple items like those mentioned. A high percentage of auto owners don't do ANYTHING to a car until it is to late.
These hondas can run for an extremely long time and can be very reliable. All it takes to to keep up on the maintenance which most don't seem to want to do. Unless you knew the original owner of the car and how they took care of it, you have to expect the worst. At least that is what I do.
These hondas can run for an extremely long time and can be very reliable. All it takes to to keep up on the maintenance which most don't seem to want to do. Unless you knew the original owner of the car and how they took care of it, you have to expect the worst. At least that is what I do.
How old are these key ignition system components? If you don't know, remove them and post clear pictures of the tips of the plugs, the inside of the cap, and the contact area on the side of the rotor. Yes, the rotor is inside the distributor. Also post a picture of the distributor with the cap removed. If you don't know how old the plug wires are, just replace them.
I'll have those things checked in the morning, and I'll post the pics if my sister has and lets me use her camera. Thank you both for the tips! I'll let ya'll know tomorrow.
