Bogging when punched

EFOptmst

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I have a 97 d16y8, with god knows how many miles. I thought I fixed this problem by replacing my MSD cap and wires, and new plugs but its back. When I go to punch my gas it boggs out, I can catch it from stallin completely but it doesnt help the fact that I cant put the rpms past 1k or accelerate fast at all. It idles fine. There is a leak in my header which I have been meaning to fix, there is a code that stays on and flashes when it gets really bad but it has been coming on and going off and it doesnt seem like it has to do with this current problem, and I will check em tommorrow, it does eat oil and when I rev it up and down it does smoke and backfire, then if I do bog it out to death my intake(also new) smokes too. It seems like the injectors are just sayin f**k you when I gun it or the fuel pump is shuttin off. I thought it had to do with my amp and sub because the combo seemed to take a s**t at the same time, perhaps too much drain or bad ground, or blown, but today I completely pulled em out and still, same problem. Any advice would be helpful, Im fairly crafty in these situations but now I'm just confused.
 

EFOptmst

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Okay well, I checked the plugs, they were carbon covered but dry, and it is idling fine when it can so Id say ignition is okay, however my new msd distributor cap terminals were beaten up and coroded more than I would have liked to see. I let it sit all day and started it and it seemed to be runnin fine. On my way to work about five minutes into the trip it started bogging out so bad, I couldnt push the gas down at all and it stalled on me coming to a stop at an offramp that I now had no choice but to take. I couldnt get it started so its sittin at the gas station, which I think is my problem, gas. Tommorrow I will replace the fuel pump(since it does it when its warm), and filter(just cause I should), and seafoam the car(cause it sounds like it works wonders).
 


EFOptmst

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ok checked a bunch of s**t. Bought fuel pump and filter, fuel pump is goin back its fine, filter is dirty, its stayin, movin forward. Dismantled fuel rail to check injectors, f**ked with soot, why?, cleaned em up with some carb cleaner, move to intake, destroyed, wet with soot, figurin my intakes the same way. Wanna take it apart but not yet. Figurin it was from the backfiring. How do I get that sick s**t outta my engine, it needs flushed or somethin, can I just hose it out somehow? Since I just had the whole thing apart anyhow, sparkplugs and all? What else could this s**t have f**ked up? I think this is a product of Seafoamin my car? Gonna go check my distributor again, somethins got me thinkin, I just replaced this s**t though, ugh
 

PhntmSk8r

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Seafoam + cats/o2 sensors = bad news.

A friend of mine had her car doing the exact same thing you're describing. It turned out to be a plugged to hell cat.

Id also look into replacing your o2 sensor, they can go bad without throwing a code of any kind.
 


EFOptmst

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Just ran the codes, pullin up 3-Map sensor, 7-Throttle position sensor, 10-Intake air temp sensor, 45-fuel system too rich too lean, and missin on every cylinder, whats the prognosis
 

EFOptmst

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By the way I dont have a cat just the resonator, dont need to where I live right now. No 02 sensors goin off though, odd cause only ones hooked up and the other is wrapped in tinfoil, ha
 

PhntmSk8r

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uhhh those 3 codes explain everything.

Id start with the small # code (IE: 3, mapsensor), fix it then go from there.

Sometimes the lower # codes (IE: 1,2,3 etc.) will cause codes higher in the 'food chain' to go off.
 

EFOptmst

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Gotcha, my boss said the same thing actually, that will probably be the first thing to replace, takin it to my shop guy today to get a final verdict. Im not goin all weekend without drivin. Any guess bout all the cylinders misfirin? Distributor, Timing?
 

EFOptmst

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Just got it back from the shop and they are just as baffled as I am. Compression is good still so thats a plus Dont know what to do now but take it to honda, I could spend hundreds of dollars in sensors, but I think its bigger than that
 

PhntmSk8r

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Dude... stop being an idiot lol

Go to the junkyard, or search online.

You can get a used OEM honda map sensor for cheap, like $20 online

If that doesnt fix your problem, look for a used TPS (50-60 at most)



If you replace all sensors, and it doesnt fix itself (which im sure its a map sensor, you're wasting your time/money having a shop tell you what you already know), then your harness is f**ked and you'll need to find where the wires are broke, or get a new harness (again, maybe $100 used online)
 

EFOptmst

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I dont feel so stupid now, cause I took it to Honda cause I needed it fixed quick, they couldn't even figure it out, and they supposedly have one of the top four mechanics in the country. By the way, I reset my ecu and now I am gettin code 14(IACV), a totally new code, and 72(missfire), the other ones dont even show up, and now its either missin like crazy or gettin intermittent fuel spurts
 

AllStockHatch

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Damn. You have a nasty problem there. Mine has been randomly bogging as well, but not as bad as yours.
45-fuel system too rich too lean, is one of the codes that mine is throwning. Let us know what the verdict is. Might help a few of us others with our bogging problems.
 

ragedeep

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so wait you reset the ecu and it came up with new codes? could th ecu itself be causing the problem? as in, there is a code, but its not giving you the right one, or its true that one of the previously mentioned sensors could have changed the codes you received before you reset the ecu. but tough break there
 

Ian123

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didnt read any of the posts besides the first one, but i had the same bogging problem and i replaced the fuel filter and it didnt happen anymore
 

PhntmSk8r

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didnt read any of the posts besides the first one, but i had the same bogging problem and i replaced the fuel filter and it didnt happen anymore
And you should of read the rest of the posts.

If the ECU was reset and it threw new codes, id say try a different ECU.
 

EFOptmst

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Update, car was still doin it. I work near my house so I would deal with it, until one day it wouldnt start at all, it turned over but wouldnt start, shipped it to Honda and they couldnt figure it out either, and didnt want to "waste my money" to figure it out, so now its back home but I dont trust it to drive it. After jumping it and numerous tries to get it started, it did, ran like crap. I also have a clear distributor cap and you can see the terminals sparking inside. I knowticed, that when its gassed hard my distributor and wires are not getting spark. So is this because of the coil? the alternator? Ive never heard of these symptoms from a bad alternator. Lost more than ever
 

ragedeep

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altenator shouldnt be a problem. but look into it to be safe, so honda gave up that easy? and didnt reccomend anything? hmmm, does it shake like crazy when starting? and you say when you raise the rpms the sparks arent flying anymore....hmm thats really strange, what codes are you getting again? i def agree that another ecu could be of use to verify the codes your getting. from there, work your way from the biggest and worst codes to the lowside ones. come back when you get another ecu to verify codes
 

Szady

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Take your tin foil off the o2 sensor. I wouldnt trust that. All the foil is doing is making the sensor hot, so it dosent throw a CEL. Its blocking the exhaust fumes from reaching the sensor, so the ECU is adding more fuel to compensate so it dosent detonate.

Excess fuel means its saturating the plugs, not letting them fire. Do a complete tune up (plugs, wires, filters, ect). Get a spark plug non-fouler, drill a 1/2" hole thru one, and put it over the o2 sensor, then put it in your exhaust.
 


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