brakes

AliasNeo

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hey, i just replaced my drum breaks today with the cheap duralast lol... well i need to bleed the system so im going to just run it thru with new stuff... but my real concern is that when i hold the e break on it doesnt stop the car type of thing... and when i try to do a burn out in them the car roles while spinning front tires... then when the front grips it just drags the car... what should i do about this???

i tried to adjust the little rod thing inside the drum but only worked a bit...
 

Mr.Luder

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u cant bleed ur drums!! and its called BRAKES!!! u gotta adjust ur rear drums for ur e brake to work better
 


Mr.Luder

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oh and just to let you know holdin the ebrake while gasing isn't such a good idea!! probably one of the reasons ur ebrake aint workin
 

AliasNeo

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well i know i spelled brakes wrong lol didnt feel like re adjusting the spelling, but yes i tried to adjust the pads but i dunno...
with the stock ones i could sit there and do a burn out with these new ones the car just drags... got them today
 


Mr.Luder

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did u let them break in? ur talking about the rear drums and new shoes right?
 

AliasNeo

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well i just got shoes
and no i put them on and tried the stuff listed above
haha
 

henkz0r

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AliasNeo said:
well i just got shoes
and no i put them on and tried the stuff listed above
haha
A lot of people have misconceptions about new pads/shoes. They think they will instantly have superior braking power. This is only true if you turn your rotors/drums. Basically, your rotor/drum is not a flat smooth surface. It has grooves and channels cut into it. Your old pad/shoe has the same matching grooves and channels. They fit right in and increase braking surface. You put a nice flat new pad/shoe on that grooved out rotor/drum, and it's only going to make contact with the crowns of the grooves, which cripples your contact surface.

You need to let your pads break in by following the break-in procedure.

Stoptech's Brake Myths

^^^ Very good reading.

Kitcarbooks

^^^ More goodness.
 

Bangin' HB

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on the back of the dust plate you will see a hardline going into the wheel cylinder as well as a bleeder screw. the screw is a dif size than the fronts (i forget off the top of my head, but i know ive mentioned the sizes in another thread). and you turn the star-adjuster to a slight drag on the drum. your ebrake will feel a lot better when adjusted. general rule of thumb is 3-5 clicks should lock the brakes.
 


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