Everything GT said, and if you spun and melted the bearing and are hearing the clack of the rod end on the crank you probably damaged the crank somewhat. Another thing that could have happened is you may have produced enough free play at the crank to allow piston to head contact or piston to valve contact, so check for damage there as well. After you pull the pan, you can bolt up a flywheel/flex-plate stop and do leak-down tests one cylinder at a time to check valve seal. Might pay to have someone with a cylinder inspection camera some money to check the valve condition even if the leak-down is good. Otherwise you may fix it and a weakened valve may break or burn soon after. Really the best action is for the motor to come apart altogether with either a rod bearing or rod throw. You probably have plenty of metal everywhere inside the engine and it all has to get cleaned out before it runs again.
3 minutes is a bit of an exaggeration, I know on my engine the exhaust has to come apart in two places to create enough clearance to remove the pan. Sometimes, exhausts don't want to come apart. It shouldn't take you longer than 10 minutes max though, with weasel piss (penetrant) and a decent impact or long breaker bar.
