Built Tubro Motor...without turbo??

[StreetEuro99]

All,

If I install a built turbo motor, but lack a turbo kit at this time, will running the low compression pistons without the extra boost from the turbo be overly detrimental. When I say this, I am not just refering to wear on the motor, but in the form of gas mileage as well. My current motor is nearing its life span. I have been planning to go turbo, however I do not feel that I will have the money at this time to afford my block, head and turbo kit all together. I think I can afford the entire bottom end, fully built/printed, and maybe the head... maybe. I know many will say to just wait till I can afford it all, however, this is my daily driver and I need it every week. Best scenario, my motor lasts and I don't have to worry, but I would rather be prepared.

 

[jason_guy_yeah]

There's nothing wrong with having a built motor, you have to break in the motor in at least 500 miles before you'll be able to tune it. But, when you say low c/p; how low?

 

[Szady]

You can run a low comp. motor no problem. You have absolutely no power, tho.

 

[Billy.]

its going to feel like a compression leak in all cylinders, but it shouldnt hurt anything


*edit*
make sure you properly break in the piston rings. since you are running lower comp, i.e. less cylinder pressure, the break in process may need to be increased a little

 

[stealthy]

to those saying you wont have power and whatnot. UNTRUE.

i had a completely stock gsr with 168k miles on it. it ran GREAT. i built the bottom end with 9:1cr and it ran just as good if not a little better than before. to say you will have absolutely no power at all is complete bullshit and i applaud you for your spreading of misinformation.


and mugenkid, surely you know that rings seat completely in less than 20 miles, right? read my link below

and to the original poster...heres a link to how i recommend breaking in a motor:
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=112132&highlight=motoman

 

[Winki]

ls motors are low compression you will be fine

 

[StreetEuro99]

ls motors are low compression you will be fine

This won't be a LS motor, it will be a B16 stroked to 1.9, running around a 9:0:1 CR, although that is still up in the air while I research the CR potential of other setups.

Thanks for the input, it reinforces what I was already thinking.

 

[jason_guy_yeah]

The "break in hard" method is the best way to toast a motor. My motor is proof, because the wrist pins, tight bearing clearance and high spots... My motor (I didn't break it in, a kid before me did this way); the wrist pins have flat spots, score marks, pistons and cylinders are scored, and so are all my rod and main bearings. The traditional way of "granning it" allows oil to cushion and minimize damage from metal shavings.

 

[AlexM]

A b16 with lower comp pistons will affect your overall hp a bit. There's no harm in doing it at all, you might feel a bit sluggish though.

 

[Billy.]

to those saying you wont have power and whatnot. UNTRUE.

i had a completely stock gsr with 168k miles on it. it ran GREAT. i built the bottom end with 9:1cr and it ran just as good if not a little better than before. to say you will have absolutely no power at all is complete bullshit and i applaud you for your spreading of misinformation.


and mugenkid, surely you know that rings seat completely in less than 20 miles, right? read my link below

and to the original poster...heres a link to how i recommend breaking in a motor:
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=112132&highlight=motoman

This is a very controversial topic !!
that's the first line on the "break in secrets" link posted on that thread. the break in procedure varies from motor to motor depending on oil weight, compression ratio, stroke length, bore diameter, boost pressure, CFM, fuel ratio, ignition timing, among several other variables. but with that said, yes the first miles on a motor are the most crucial, and i believe a motor with less compression needs a longer break in. (and how can you overlook the fact that "20miles" at 1500rpm is a whole lot different than at 4000rpm............). dont say an engine is completely broken in after 20 miles please.

the OP did not say what his CR will be but it is a mathematical FACT that a lower compression engine will run significantly less hp than one of equal displacement and higher compression. (you can read this trustingly because i am a mechanical engineering major and have already taken my thermodynamics course on the otto, wankel and diesel cycles). noone said it will have no power, but it will have significantly less power which is indisputable. a engine with a CR of 8:1 has about a 50% effieciency rating while an engine of 10:1 has a 65% effieciency rating. youre talking 30hp on a typically 200hp motor...........

 

[stealthy]

The "break in hard" method is the best way to toast a motor. My motor is proof, because the wrist pins, tight bearing clearance and high spots... My motor (I didn't break it in, a kid before me did this way); the wrist pins have flat spots, score marks, pistons and cylinders are scored, and so are all my rod and main bearings. The traditional way of "granning it" allows oil to cushion and minimize damage from metal shavings.

oh really, thats why i have about 8k miles on my 15 month old built gsr sounds to me like your motor wasnt built real great and had intolerable tolerances set. so if you want to go on and make break in excuses for your piece taking a s**t on you, go right ahead. all i can will say is this hard break in procedure that i used has been nothing shy of magic.

This is a very controversial topic !!
that's the first line on the "break in secrets" link posted on that thread. the break in procedure varies from motor to motor depending on oil weight, compression ratio, stroke length, bore diameter, boost pressure, CFM, fuel ratio, ignition timing, among several other variables. but with that said, yes the first miles on a motor are the most crucial, and i believe a motor with less compression needs a longer break in. (and how can you overlook the fact that "20miles" at 1500rpm is a whole lot different than at 4000rpm............). dont say an engine is completely broken in after 20 miles please.

the OP did not say what his CR will be but it is a mathematical FACT that a lower compression engine will run significantly less hp than one of equal displacement and higher compression. (you can read this trustingly because i am a mechanical engineering major and have already taken my thermodynamics course on the otto, wankel and diesel cycles). noone said it will have no power, but it will have significantly less power which is indisputable. a engine with a CR of 8:1 has about a 50% effieciency rating while an engine of 10:1 has a 65% effieciency rating. youre talking 30hp on a typically 200hp motor...........

yes, it is very controversial, which is why im not even going to further defend either point . the whole 20 miles at 1500/4000 rpms is irrelevant because im a firm believer in fluctuating the rpms and engine breaking.

but by the way, just for the record, someone DID say it will have no power....actually they said " absolutely no power."

You can run a low comp. motor no problem. You have absolutely no power, tho.

 

[toneekay]

i think you guys should race it out