I use Go-Jo hand cleaner and a parts brush.. it will clean anything!
Can anyone help? Starting to mod Civic
- Thread starter Projectpat1807
- Start date
oh really. all you gotta do is be careful and cover up the alternator, remove the battery and cover up the fuse box. pressure washin way quicker and makes the bay look way cleaner
Let's not turn this guy's project thread into a b***h bicker. Pressure washing works if you know what you're doing (but there lots of room for disaster if you don't know what your doing). Since your new, your safest bet would be to get a bunch of microfiber rags (because no dust) and any of the cleaning products suggest and a lot of patience. Do it right the first time so all you have to do in the future is a quick wipe down. I highly second the opinion of getting the manual. You can download it a bunch of places for free. This will be your best friend. As for the seafoam, you won't need the second can until a few years from now. Go with the 1/3rd rule. Equal amounts in the gas tank, engine (via oil cap), and vac line. Pre-measure your thirds to be safe. Let it run and take it out on the highway. Try doing it at night so your cloud is less visible. Then change your spark plugs and oil. As for the guy who's oil started leaking, the synthetic oil will make your engine last longer and it maintains power longer. Your oil "leaked" because you had a spot for it to leak from. Maybe what happened was you were burning oil because you mistreated your engine all these years. Anyone who knows slightly anything about the way a motor works will tell you that synhetic works better than conventional. When it doubt, look at professional race teams. Name ONE that runs on conventional. Think with your dipstick.
Wow, my bad on the English, it's late and I'm too lazy to proofread. But you get the idurr.
Sorry i ddnt respond sooner guys, i ddnt know that the replies continued on the second page until i saw the number 2 button highlighted. Ok...im gonna do the seafoam treatment today but at night, cuz i can see my neighbors bitching about the smoke. And as far as changing the spark plugs after the seafoam treatment, wont that be a little expensive? Is changing ur spark plugs something u really have to do after that. Im not doubting ur intelligence, im just asking to make sure. I ran out of oil yesterday so i need to refill my oil tank anyway, but if u say that synthetic is better ill just go out and get some. Do i need to change the oil if i switch oil brands? Also back to the topic about cleaning the engine, im sure if i pressure washd it id mess something up, but most of u said to use Simple Green right? I still need to switch my Manifold and catalytic converter to the one i just got, cuz the one on my car now is so corroded that the bolts are fused with the holes ( i dont think WD 40 will help me wit that lmao). But heres all the questions i have, should i wait till before or after the seafoam treatment to change my manifold and catalytic converter. Secondly, what cleaner should i buy to clean the engine and everything around it. Third, what oil do u recommend and should i do an oil change. And lastly, wen i do the seafoam treatment is changing all my sparkplugs absolutely necessary? I wanna thank all of u for helping me out with modding my ciivic, it'll take me awhile till im even close to finishing but thank u all for ur help and ill continue to update u on the progress.
lol true true. didnt wanna quote the first one cause it was too long. just sayin thats what ive done and its a bit quicker but i know what you mean since its def better to be over precautious cause if water gets somewhere where it shouldnt be it could wreak havoc. it just seems like it would take hrs to clean out an engine bay by hand gettin every nook and cranny
to the op: good luck with the cleanin
so why doesn't Honda put synthetic in all their new cars from the start especially if they are going to warranty them for 100k miles? wait i know, because it's completely unnecessary in a stock civic because it isnt a race car. it doesnt have 14:1 compression, it doesnt rev to 12k+ rpms, it doesn't spend 95% of its life in WOT, it isnt running on alcohol or methanol or race gas. professional race teams use synthetic oils b/c their engines cost upwards of $20k and have extremely strict tolerances and run under extreme conditions constantly. a lowly d16 just plain does not need synthetic oil to have a long life..
ok sooo what oil should i use then guys?
Stick to conventional.
alright, what about the answers to those other questions??
First, formatting is FTW. It's kinda hard to read everything and find all the questions when it's in a block.Sorry i ddnt respond sooner guys, i ddnt know that the replies continued on the second page until i saw the number 2 button highlighted. Ok...im gonna do the seafoam treatment today but at night, cuz i can see my neighbors bitching about the smoke. And as far as changing the spark plugs after the seafoam treatment, wont that be a little expensive? Is changing ur spark plugs something u really have to do after that. Im not doubting ur intelligence, im just asking to make sure. I ran out of oil yesterday so i need to refill my oil tank anyway, but if u say that synthetic is better ill just go out and get some. Do i need to change the oil if i switch oil brands? Also back to the topic about cleaning the engine, im sure if i pressure washd it id mess something up, but most of u said to use Simple Green right? I still need to switch my Manifold and catalytic converter to the one i just got, cuz the one on my car now is so corroded that the bolts are fused with the holes ( i dont think WD 40 will help me wit that lmao). But heres all the questions i have, should i wait till before or after the seafoam treatment to change my manifold and catalytic converter. Secondly, what cleaner should i buy to clean the engine and everything around it. Third, what oil do u recommend and should i do an oil change. And lastly, wen i do the seafoam treatment is changing all my sparkplugs absolutely necessary? I wanna thank all of u for helping me out with modding my ciivic, it'll take me awhile till im even close to finishing but thank u all for ur help and ill continue to update u on the progress.
Ran out of oil?
That sounds like an issue all in itself.I don't think it matters, but you might as well do the seafoam treatment after switching the manifold and cat. You might as well clean once you have on your car the parts you're going to be using.
The brand of the oil isn't too important, and as others have said, conventional is fine.
As others have said, Simple Green will be fine to clean the engine bay. You won't even need it for a lot of the engine bay (water would work) but it helps to get the grease and heavy dirt off.
Spark plugs are cheap. Don't bother with iridium, they're not necessary. I think they're like $3 each for some decent NGKs, that means $12 total. After doing the seafoam, change them. Better safe than sorry.
By the way, just wanna point out, what you're doing right now isn't modding, it's just maintenance.
uh Yea I Know My Writing Is Confusing And Annoying But Im In A Hurry Most Of The Time. Secondly, Yea I Know Its Not Modding Cuz I Havent Started It Yet, But My Car Has A Few Corroded Spots Including The Man And Cat And I Gotta Get Those Fixed. Thanks For Ur Input Tho, Im Guessing To Get The Right Spark Plugs I Just Have To Take It To Autozone Or Sumthin And They'll Give Me The Same Ones. Later Today Ill Have All Day To Finish My Maintenance On My Car. Ill Show U Guys Before And After Pics And Then We Can Start Talking About Real Mods
no no no. engine, suspension, exhaust, then paint or whatever else. its better to have a fast(er) car that handles well that a shiny car that dont got much giddyup. plus dont get exhaust before engine work because catback exhaust dont make your car go any faster
Not true you should stick with clean new oem parts some after market here and there plus it seems like you are not going to track or race the car so maybe a few bolt ons and just lowering springs. then some really nice wheels some interior cosmetics if the headlights are hazed over polishing doesn't always work and it seems like your a true noob from reading your posts (no offense) just get some blacked out headlights from ebay (cheapest and I have good experience) also some hids 6000k or lower. Some fog lights you could go oem style (ebay) or walmart fogs work great. then fix all the dents and scratches possible if you need to replace a fender or hood etc call a junk sometimes they can get parts that are new and ready for paint for cheap. Then paint the car and get the exterior fixed up.
On the engine you can swap/rebuild or rebuild the motor you have now jus depends what you want to do with it. I f you want to track it then swap it and rebuild that motor but if you want this as a strict dd then just get the .motor rebuilt and maintain it
On the engine you can swap/rebuild or rebuild the motor you have now jus depends what you want to do with it. I f you want to track it then swap it and rebuild that motor but if you want this as a strict dd then just get the .motor rebuilt and maintain it
People are just saying that paint is very expensive and is almost completely cosmetic, so it should be saved for when you've done all the more important things you want to do.
i completely agree. unless of course you use fender covers. even with those theres a high chance of messin up the paint or just puttin a dent in. and dont get ebay headlights even if theyre "good" quality. just do a diy on your oem ones and paint the chrome piece black to make em look like ctr headlights. then get a cleaning kit for the headlight cover. theres some diy's on here so just do a search and youll find some
well I posted the ebay headlights since he is a noob and would prolly be scared to stick his headlights in the oven but its completely up to him. And they make a good point I thought of that after my post but I mean any serious and good mechanic would avoid f**king up a car's paint especially if its just been done.
whoa whoa whoa, back to the oil business, I never said you needed synthetic, I said it was better. And for the dude that threw a bitchfit about it, conventional oil is cheaper than synthetic (I'm sure you know this). You see Honda is a company, and although they do make cars, making money is their true business. If a plastic washer did the same job as an aluminum washer, but cost 1/2 a cent less, Honda and any other successful company would choose the washer. Is the aluminum tougher? Yes, but the plastic does the job. Bottom line, it's cheaper to sell cars with conventional oil, just as many other companies do. You can run any engine on conventional oil, but when an oil company (like mobil) wants to team up with another company (like infinity) and make some extra cash, the manufacturer might tell you that you HAVE to run on synthetic. Otherwise conventional with more frequent oil changes will do. Torture test identical engines with synthetic vs. conventional. The synthetic will always win, and that's not the Castrol commercial talking. Our engines are not brand new, better lube will make them last longer: race applications or not. If you get lazy on the oil changes, you are more likely to cause engine damage by running the conventional a little longer as opposed to running the synthetic a little longer.
Good brands that I've used:
Mobil 1. Castrol Syntec, Penzoil Platinum (loses power noticeably sooner, probably due to cleaning agents)
If you don't trust my opinion, do some outside research.
Good brands that I've used:
Mobil 1. Castrol Syntec, Penzoil Platinum (loses power noticeably sooner, probably due to cleaning agents)
If you don't trust my opinion, do some outside research.