Car only starts when hot outside (out of ideas)

ubberkid

New Member
So my car will start and work perfectly fine if it's light out, i live in las vegas so when its light out its pretty hot. But when the sun goes down, either my car will turn over and not start, or my car will start but at a really low rpm almost 0, and start bogging, and when i try and press the gas at all to rev it, it makes it die even faster and stalls. And when i do hold the gas down, it doesn't rev, starts bogging even more and makes a burping sound and dies. :shock:

I've replaced spark plugs, wires, and o2 sensor, i'm all out of ideas? Will post a video of what it sounds like if that helps?

thanks for any help, it's driving me nuts not being able to drive my car when it's dark.:cry:

EDIT: Here's a video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxUo1foKQpg
 
Last edited:

fronx

New Member
How does the distributer cap and rotor look inside there?
 


fronx

New Member
I dont know how damp it gets there But its a good thing to check and easy to do. Is your check engine light on?
 


ubberkid

New Member
It is but i scanned it and it was my o2 sensor, which i replaced like an hour ago cuz i ripped it out when i was putting in my headers. Not damp at all though aha. So the only code it's throwing is an emissions code.
 

fronx

New Member
did you reset your ecu? Check if your timing is on too. But i think it might be a distributer issue. Im also throwing a o2 sensor code and my car starts every time just runs like s*** in high rpm.

What kind of oil is in it?
 

ubberkid

New Member
Yeah I did and the timing is fine because it runs perfectly, just when it's hot outside ya know. Some high mileage s**t.
 

dkdontforget

New Member
Did you put too thick of oil in it? That could cause an issue. Or mix synthetic with regular?

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lethal6

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Synthetic and conventional oil is completely compatible. The only thing that would happen by mixing them would be partial degeneration of the synthetic's ability to coat and protect like it should. It would essentially turn the synthetic into regular oil or a slightly less version of it's "original" self.
 

dkdontforget

New Member
Synthetic and conventional oil is completely compatible. The only thing that would happen by mixing them would be partial degeneration of the synthetic's ability to coat and protect like it should. It would essentially turn the synthetic into regular oil or a slightly less version of it's "original" self.
Really? Did not know that, I read somewhere that it would foam up or form clots...or maybe that was mixing radiator fluids...

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98ej8

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Would the map sensor have anything to do with this? Or the air temp sensor on the intake?
 

lethal6

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Really? Did not know that, I read somewhere that it would foam up or form clots...or maybe that was mixing radiator fluids...
Wow. I don't know what you are reading or perhaps its a full comprehension thing. Mixing coolant wouldn't cause foaming either. However, if you mix different compounds (blue and green for instance) it will cause advanced corrosion within the passages in the cooling system which can cause a catastrophic failure in the near future.

Foaming of oil is generally caused by over filling.
 

dkdontforget

New Member
Wow. I don't know what you are reading or perhaps its a full comprehension thing. Mixing coolant wouldn't cause foaming either. However, if you mix different compounds (blue and green for instance) it will cause advanced corrosion within the passages in the cooling system which can cause a catastrophic failure in the near future.

Foaming of oil is generally caused by over filling.
Now youre just being rude, obviously mixing green with green wouldnt cause any issues, for exapmple green and orange

http://autos.aol.com/article/coolant-color/

Can I add the green coolant to the orange stuff?
As I stated above, the two chemicals of Ethylene Glycol (green) and Dexcool (orange) are not compatible. When mixed together they form a gel-like substance that stops coolant flow and consequently the engine overheats.
What exactly happens when these coolants are mixed?
The coolants chemically react and form a gel rather than a liquid. The coolant stops flowing through the system, clogs up coolant passageways and water jackets, radiators, and heater cores. The water pump overheats and fails due to a lack of lubricant in the coolant. Head gaskets blow, heads warp, and the engine suffers major damage.
There is a proper way to educate someone without being rude, people come to forms because they dont know and need help of other people who have the knowledge, not to be bashed because they are ignorant on a subject.
 

lethal6

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Now youre just being rude, obviously mixing green with green wouldnt cause any issues, for exapmple green and orange

http://autos.aol.com/article/coolant-color/



There is a proper way to educate someone without being rude, people come to forms because they dont know and need help of other people who have the knowledge, not to be bashed because they are ignorant on a subject.
Again with the comprehension. I never said anything about green and green. I said different compounds like green mixed with blue (if you don't know, which I am guessing by your response, that you don't blue is generally European coolant found in older vw's and even porsche and is still used for race applications).

Sorry if I come off as rude. That is the way it comes out when I am when typing and it is misinterpreted a lot.

Calm down. :lol:

Also, to be honest, if you don't know know the correct information about something (or are ignorant on a subject as you admit) you SHOULDN'T be giving advise on it. You risk giving incorrect advise which in some circumstances can be VERY hazardous. People don't know if you are ignorant on a subject, when you come on here giving advice they tend to believe what they read unless given a counter offer, hence my interaction here. Again, I apologize if I was/am rude. ;)
 

98ej8

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Oil wouldn't make a difference in the car being able to start. Unless you're using like gear oil.
 

ubberkid

New Member
Dont think it's the oil, just got an oil change at pepboys, doing the same s**t. Air temp sensor huh? it does make this weird burping sound out the intake when i try pressing on the gas. Ima gonna post a vid of my dash and sounds. Real quick.
 

Autoteck21

Si/Sir
So my car will start and work perfectly fine if it's light out, i live in las vegas so when its light out its pretty hot. But when the sun goes down, either my car will turn over and not start, or my car will start but at a really low rpm almost 0, and start bogging, and when i try and press the gas at all to rev it, it makes it die even faster and stalls. And when i do hold the gas down, it doesn't rev, starts bogging even more and makes a burping sound and dies. :shock:

I've replaced spark plugs, wires, and o2 sensor, i'm all out of ideas? Will post a video of what it sounds like if that helps?

thanks for any help, it's driving me nuts not being able to drive my car when it's dark.:cry:

EDIT: Here's a video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxUo1foKQpg
Hey what up, now because i don't have your car right in front of me you may just get lucky, but hate to say it that's about a 3-6% chance .
OK, this is some thing i have dealt with quite a bit, now you need to compression check each cyl. COLD! then after you have recorded all three test's on all four cyl you need to get the motor to normal operating temp and perform another compression check. 3 rotations per one test w/3 test's each cyl. record data and compere, are they different? if so your dealing w/1 of 2 or both problems.1- leaking valve('s) and or piston rings but only on 1 or 2 cylinders. on the other hand if you do get lucky its a temp sending unit for your ECU input reference signal. which is used to determine cold start injector duration or volume of fuel being delivered to each cyl. when cold your engine requires more fuel and advanced timing in order to ignite in the combustion chamber. its like trying to light a cold lighter either takes a bit or has a small flame.
 


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