car problems need help

[twitch49k]

i drive a 1994 honda civic. it has a d15 motor. it keeps bogging out while im driving it and it seems like its not getting gas. i already changed the fuel filter. it seems like it acts up a lot more when its hot outside cuz it runs a lot better in the morning. i was wondering if a fuel pump or new injectors would be a good next step towards fixing my problem. or if anyone knows a way to better diagnose my problem. any help is appreciated thank you

 

[Mugen DC5]

Do a full tune up, spark plugs, filter the whole 9 yards and see where you're at.

 

[purpej1]

check the wires and plugs thats my 0.02

 

[RonJ]

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition timing.

Any CEL codes?

Mechanical timing off by a tooth?

 

[twitch49k]

havent been able to get the codes for the cel. been meaning to borrow my friends scanner thing but been busy. and also the cel doesnt really stay on long enough to scan it. it turns on for 30 seconds give or take and shuts back off. same with the car, it will bog out and shut off and will turn right back on after 30 seconds to a minute. but ill do a full tune up and see if it helps. i appreciate the advice and will let post the results. thanks again guys

 

[RonJ]

For your car, you don't use a code reader. You jump the service connector and watch the code blink from the CEL. Click CEL link in my signature.

Next time the CEL turns on, pull over and, with the engine still running, jump the service connector. This will ensure that you recover the code.

 

[vjf915]

Any CEL codes?

Welcome back!!!

Anyway, this. Anytime there is something wrong with your car.....go for the CEL first. Throwing money at it will likely cost you more than is necessary.

 

[twitch49k]

changed the spark plugs, wires, oil, battery, and air filter just because i just bought the car and needed to anyways, but still having the same problem. i jumped it and its throwing a code 15 (ignition output signal). what im wondering now is would i be better off changing out the whole distributor? or changing the rotor, ignitor and ignition coil

 

[RonJ]

Have the igniter unit inside the distributor tested.

 

[twitch49k]

just took the coil and the ignitor out of the distributor so i could have them tested and noticed that one of the wires from the ignitor was exposed a little between the head of the wire the plugs onto the pron and the actual wire itself.... meaning, there was regular closed wire from the sensor of the distributor, then 1/4 inch of exposed wire, then the little head thats crimped on the plugs onto the actual pron. i have some tubing stuff that shrinks when heated its some type of insulation tubing i think, but i put some on the wire and sealed it up, but anyways, what im wondering now is could that have been my problem this whole time? or do you think i should still get the ignitor and the coil tested while i have it out of the car?

 

[RonJ]

Shrink wrap the wire then go from there.

 

[twitch49k]

i shrinkwrapped the wire and put the distributor back together and still having the same problem. so now im assuming either the ignitor or the coil is bad...?? im gonna have them checked at an auto parts store today and if either is bad i will replace. now just hoping that will solve my problem. if not, where else could my ignition output signal code be coming from

 

[twitch49k]

so I had the coil tested and it tested fine and I changed the ignitor and the cars been running fine ever since. The new ignitor is all black as to the old one was metal and brown but the prons are all in the same place as the old one. I hope there's not a difference between the two cuz at one auto parts store there was a metal and brown one like the original one but it was $120.00 as to the black one that I got from another store was only $50....

 

[93Civicspeed]

so I had the coil tested and it tested fine and I changed the ignitor and the cars been running fine ever since. The new ignitor is all black as to the old one was metal and brown but the prons are all in the same place as the old one. I hope there's not a difference between the two cuz at one auto parts store there was a metal and brown one like the original one but it was $120.00 as to the black one that I got from another store was only $50....

Might have been just worn hence the metal and the brown might have been either just the color of the plastic or whatever material it was made out of, it could have just been burnt as it was a spark causing implement