Car running like s**t

[Stephen staly]

So I have a 96 Honda Civic Dx non VTEC and when it is fully warmed up it runs rough and only at 500 rpms you can hear the shifter ratttle and stuff, so far I did plugs, wires, cap and rotor, I did the battery and altinator bc they were bad the only thing I didn't do was the fuel filter bc I can't get the bolt out and the coil that goes in the distributor. Also in 5th gear the shifter rattles over 50 mph so somebody please help

 

[ctag]

Rattling (or just loose) shifter -> replace the shift bushings. Is the whole car shaking? If so, then you're looking at a tire alignment.

I really hate the fuel filters on 6th gens.. You're going to want a 14mm(?) flare nut wrench. Remove the tube from the air box to the intake and you should have enough room to break that nut free.

When did the car start running poorly? Did you buy it in this condition? Could be water in the gas if this just started happening..

 

[Stephen staly]

Rattling (or just loose) shifter -> replace the shift bushings. Is the whole car shaking? If so, then you're looking at a tire alignment.

I really hate the fuel filters on 6th gens.. You're going to want a 14mm(?) flare nut wrench. Remove the tube from the air box to the intake and you should have enough room to break that nut free.

When did the car start running poorly? Did you buy it in this condition? Could be water in the gas if this just started happening..

Just the shifter shaking.
But I can't get the bolts out of the fuel filter there froze on I've used pb blaster for weeks now and that won't crack free and I really don't wanna break the bolts.
Also it's been getting worse the idle gets lower and lower over time and I've used water remover and fuel injection cleaner although I have not sea foamed it yet so idk what to do

 

[ctag]

If neither of those products have done anything, I don't think Seafoam will be a magic bullet.

If you have a little give to the fuel line going into the filter: you can probably get a flange tool rental at an auto parts store. Cut the fuel filter off right under the nut, reflange the new end of the line and then install into the new filter. I haven't tried this method, and I don't know how you'd cut the line while guaranteeing no sparks/fire.

You've got a good list going for troubleshooting already. Add to it: check the idle adjust screw (I know it's dumb, but worth looking at), check compression in the cylinders (I borrow a friend's tool, but again you can probably rent it). Clear all of the low hanging fruit first, then move up to pulling the fuel rail and looking at the injectors. You can wire them to an electronics test bench and manually activate them to make sure they click brightly.

Also, I only just learned this from someone else on this site, but you can have CEL codes set without the warning light coming on. Have it scanned?

 

[lethal6]

If neither of those products have done anything, I don't think Seafoam will be a magic bullet.

If you have a little give to the fuel line going into the filter: you can probably get a flange tool rental at an auto parts store. Cut the fuel filter off right under the nut, reflange the new end of the line and then install into the new filter. I haven't tried this method, and I don't know how you'd cut the line while guaranteeing no sparks/fire.

You've got a good list going for troubleshooting already. Add to it: check the idle adjust screw (I know it's dumb, but worth looking at), check compression in the cylinders (I borrow a friend's tool, but again you can probably rent it). Clear all of the low hanging fruit first, then move up to pulling the fuel rail and looking at the injectors. You can wire them to an electronics test bench and manually activate them to make sure they click brightly.

Also, I only just learned this from someone else on this site, but you can have CEL codes set without the warning light coming on. Have it scanned?

To be specific, your light does come on but not stay on. Depends on the ecu. My car has stored faults for minor misfires to bulbs being out, to control units not communicating properly. The CEL doesn't actually flash or stay on most of the time. Depends on the fault I believe. The most important ones stay lit or flash. Or if the fault is intermittent it will not stay on long if the reason for the fault goes away from time to time. Could have came on for a short couple of seconds and you didn't notice?

 

[98civex]

Please clarify, it runs rough as in drives rough or idles low and that low idling makes it seem "rough" and causes the shifter to shake?

 

[daperez13]

You definitely have to perform a full tune up - oil/oil filter/spark plugs/spark plug wires/fuel filter/distributor cap and rotor/air filter.

Check: Spark plug gap, valve lash, compression, fuel injectors.

Regarding the fuel filter bolt, if you have not stripped it yet - relieve the fuel pressure in the system. Use the proper sized wrench and utilize either another wrench (bigger in size that you can interlock) or a hollowed metal tube for leverage. If you have access to a pneumatic impact wrench, this would be optimum and easier than doing it by hand.

Regarding the phillips screw in the distributor, use an impact driver (with an extension if necessary). Sometimes, they have threadlock and are tuff to remove. The vibration and hammer action from the impact driver should get this guy out. Make sure you apply enough pressure so that the impact driver does not bounce away from the screw and strip it.

How many miles are on the car?
How long have you had the car?
Do you performed regular maintenance on it?
Do you have a check engine light or stored codes?

 

[Joe Mason]

Don't try to remove the fuel filter bolt with only one wrench. You have to use two, one on the bolt and one on the top of the filter. I think it's 17mm. I would not recommend using any pneumatic tools for this process. It is on tight but you can get the torque needed by using two wrenches.

 

[HeX]

Don't try to remove the fuel filter bolt with only one wrench. You have to use two, one on the bolt and one on the top of the filter. I think it's 17mm. I would not recommend using any pneumatic tools for this process. It is on tight but you can get the torque needed by using two wrenches.

He's correct. The fuel filter is designed to be taken off using two tools.