CEL Idle Control Malfunction...HELP

[T!mmy]

I'm getting a check engine light on my 98 Honda Civic EX and I still cannot get rid of it. The cel comes on when I stop at a red light or stop for a couple of seconds. I can drive on the highway and if I never had to stop it would never come on. Although I do start noticing the characteristics of the way the engine acts after the cel comes on while driving. When the CEL comes on the car's idle goes up to around 1500 and runs very erratically and rough. When idling the cars rpms just go up and down between around 1300-1500 but when the car is driving if you begin to accelerate it feels like you've punched the gas and the car will lunge forward, but if you let off the gas it feels as if you punched the brake real quick. And then of course to fix this I disconnect the battery for a lil bit to reset the computer and then the car runs fine after I reset it but the second the CEL comes back on it starts again.

PLEASE HELP!

 

[T!mmy]

Also I've replaced the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) and the PCV valve

 

[RaYrAy]

why don't you find out what code it's throwing... so you can at least narrow down the problem...

 

[T!mmy]

Idle control malfunction is the code it gives off...error code 14 I believe

 

[T!mmy]

anyone else?

 

[RaYrAy]

Idle control malfunction is the code it gives off...error code 14 I believe

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=916064

 

[P0gKai]

sounds like a vaccum leak.
I'm running with the same problem, but on monday I'll try to buy a new IACV.

 

[T!mmy]

how can I check for a vaccum leak? Trying to learn...

 

[P0gKai]

how can I check for a vaccum leak? Trying to learn...

check all of your hoses that goes in your throttle body and intake manifold.

 

[T!mmy]

Alright...took a look...overlooked something VERY simple...the connector that connects to the map sensor is cracked and what I think is going on is that it's not making a good connection. If I reset the computer and disconnect this connector the CEL comes on immediately and acts the same way. Is there a way I can bypass this sensor? if it is this sensor I guess I'll go to a junkyard and get the connector and just splice in.

Thanks for all the help, dont know where I'd be without cc.com

 

[T!mmy]

Alright got an even better question for ya'll...I was checking the IACV and it seemed as if I was getting a bad negative wire because I was only getting aorund 3 volts through the wire...so I stuck a pin on the same wire at the computer and then i stuck a pin at the connector by the IACV and connected the two pins with wire. Because we were getting 12 volts at the computer so I just figured there was a problem/break/etc in the line and so I was just going to 'make a new wire'. It was the same setup, went to the same place, same positive wire was used through the connector, the only thing we did was added a negative wire, although we didnt cut the negative wire on the connecter.

Ok now that you know what I did here's my question...when i did this and I started my carup, immediately the rpms started rising fast and just keep rising. Why did the rpms do this since I didnt change anything. The only thing I really did was add a second negative wire which shouldnt change anything.

It was also the black/blue wire (negative) that I messed with.

 

[boosted_si]

Did you bleed your coolant lines? If there's air bubbles, it'll make the IACV throw a code. Might want to check that out.

 

[CIVIC12345]

hey gang got a nice code and looking for help checked with obd2 scanner thru a code po505 IDLE CONTROL MALFUNCTION any help would be appreciated

 

[ashtrey634]

damn this thread is almost 3 years old, bringing it back from the dead

 

[Suanico]

damn this thread is almost 3 years old, bringing it back from the dead

for reals i doubt he even has that car anymore

 

[CIVIC12345]

yeah i still do boys and girls if any any help would be appreciated