Coolant Leaking Issue. 99 Civic EX

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
D16Y8 All stock!

Bought this Civic early 2011, brought it home, drove it around, no issues. Then my heat would not kick on. It started strong when I got it but got a lot weaker... So I go and buy a new thermostat from Autozone I believe. Throw it in, get it filled back up with anti-freeze. Still no luck. So I'm just like, screw it. I don't care. It's not too bad. Then this s*** happens...

Few weeks go by and I notice that I have no coolant in my system. So I top it off and the next time I check it, the coolant has sprayed all over the top of my motor/air intake box/radiator/fan housing. I wipe it down, try again. Perhaps just a fluke? Nope. Did it again.

I had another civic laying around with a seized crank, so I pulled the radiator and hoses off of that civic. Same f***ing thing!

Replaced Radiator cap (cheapest possible fix). No luck. Not spraying as bad (Still doing it, just not as bad) but still leaking quite badly.

I have noticed a build up on the top of my radiator and fan housing also.

The car is not running hot, but it is becoming a pain in my ass.

What do I need to do to not have to worry about this damned coolant!?

I just don't want to spend a lot of money and it NOT fix the issue.

FWIW : The thermostat was installed correctly. The issue with the heat (which is now fixed) is that the knob for the heat was not moving the arm to open the valve. WD-40 put that b**** arm in check.

Also, just for the record. I am putting the antifreeze into the white reservoir next to the radiator and am only filling it to the "MIN" marking. Sometimes a little more, but never to "MAX".

Please help!

Thanks,
-Jared

Also, if anyone knows how to wire up a coolant level gauge (ghetto rigged of course) from something along these lines : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Sunpro-2-1-16-in-240-Ohm-empty-33-Ohm-full-black-face-electric-fuel-level-gauge/_/N-26ar?counter=25&itemIdentifier=87622_0_0_

It would be greatly appreciated.
 

RonJ

Banned
When the engine is cool, add coolant directly to the radiator and then fill the reservoir to a level midway between max and min. Then bleed the cooling system:

This may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The heater valve on the firewall must be fully open during the bleed, so if the heater cable does not work, manually open the valve. This could also explain why the heater doesn't work.
 


Gunner

New Member
Registered VIP
When you check your level you are checking the radiator yes?? It could be your water pump but usually that would cause overheating...you can do a pressure test on the cooling system and that will identify the leak for you. Also do you find puddles or anything on the ground..coolant on the bottom of motor in the back or is it all just up top?? Any smoke from the car?

some links to check out if interested.

http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htm

http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG7mdMGMRNTVwAT9RXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE1dDc5NDlxBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNgRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA0FDQlkwMl8xNDY-/SIG=120t15nec/EXP=1304718508/**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgxbPHX-W_M
 

Gunner

New Member
Registered VIP
^ yeah that too...posted while i was typing i guess. Good luck let us know how it goes.
 


JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
RonJ said:
When the engine is cool, add coolant directly to the radiator and then fill the reservoir to a level midway between max and min. Then bleed the cooling system:

This may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/knob to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The heater valve on the firewall must be fully open during the bleed, so if the heater cable does not work, manually open the valve. This could also explain why the heater doesn't work.
Click to expand...
I'll have to do this ASAP today. So, not bleeding the system can cause coolant leaks and my heater to not work?

Gunner said:
When you check your level you are checking the radiator yes?? It could be your water pump but usually that would cause overheating...you can do a pressure test on the cooling system and that will identify the leak for you. Also do you find puddles or anything on the ground..coolant on the bottom of motor in the back or is it all just up top?? Any smoke from the car?

some links to check out if interested.

http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htm

http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG7mdMGMRNTVwAT9RXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE1dDc5NDlxBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNgRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA0FDQlkwMl8xNDY-/SIG=120t15nec/EXP=1304718508/**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgxbPHX-W_M
Click to expand...
Actually, no. I don't usually check the radiator itself. >_> Don't know a lot about the coolant system. It's not running hot at all, and no. No puddles on the ground. The biggest puddle I've found thus far is on to top of my fan housing. No smoke from the car either. From what I can tell it's all up top.
 

RonJ

Banned
Air trapped in the cooling system is a common problem. It's best to rule that out before considering other causes for your problem.
 

Gunner

New Member
Registered VIP
you did say you got a new cap..i would have to look it up but make sure it is rated for the right pressure too..if its to low it may cause it to spit out some coolant...but like Ron said you could have air in the system...most of the other problems i am talking about will lead to bigger issues..
 

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
Question : How much higher does the front need to be for this to work? Like, If I use a jack (no driveway to use that has an incline) should I just take it up high enough to take the front wheels off the ground or what?
 

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
Okay. Made an attempt to bleed the system tonight, just now.

Couldn't get the car on stands as they were being used. So I just let the car sit level, my friend said it would be fine. I attempted to protest but he insisted that it would be fine.

Took the cap off. Coolant was already at the top of the radiator. Started the car. Turned on max heat. Let it run for roughly 30 minutes. Came back. Coolant on the ground (quite a bit) and still at the top of the radiator, over flowing even.

Looked like this :



Currently letting the car sit to see if the level goes back down or not. Is this right? Coolant does not look oily at all.

Thanks,
Jared


Update : coolant level did go back down but only to the bottom of the cap. Will post pics when I get back to my house.
 

2slo4u

wait4me
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Maybe you just need a new radiator..
 

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
2slo4u said:
Maybe you just need a new radiator..
Click to expand...
My friend was thinking the same thing, but I find it hard to believe that 2 radiators can have the same issue back to back out of two different cars. Strange to me I guess.

Then again, it could have been because we didn't bleed the system on the first one, and the second one is messed up. But the radiator that's in the car now was not acting up at all when I had it in my other car.

I dunno. Any other suggestions to try?

Thanks,
-Jared
 

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
Update : Just went out and took a look at the car. Coolant in the radiator was a bit low. I topped it off. Resiviore was not low, but under MIN, so I put that about half way between MIN and MAX. Drove to my local gas station (1 mile round trip, no s**t.). When I got back I popped the hood to see what was going on.

Still doing it. Not too bad tho. Most of it was on the under side of the hood and the core support. Wiped those down. Letting it cool down so I can check the level in the radiator.
 

Gunner

New Member
Registered VIP
Currently letting the car sit to see if the level goes back down or not. Is this right?

I would say yes.. you let it run for 30 mins..car got more than just warm...that resevour is an overflow tank as well...when it gets hot it pushes the coolant into the resevour...you had your cap off so it just dumped it on the ground instead... if the bleed didnt work i would try pressure testing it..
 

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
Gunner said:
Currently letting the car sit to see if the level goes back down or not. Is this right?

I would say yes.. you let it run for 30 mins..car got more than just warm...that resevour is an overflow tank as well...when it gets hot it pushes the coolant into the resevour...you had your cap off so it just dumped it on the ground instead... if the bleed didnt work i would try pressure testing it..
Click to expand...
How do I go about doing this?

Someone said that my hose from the filler neck and the tank may be leaking so I took the one off the same donor car as before to see if it may fix this. I dunno what else to try.
 

RonJ

Banned
1) Drive the car and warm it up to cause the coolant leak.

2) Quickly wipe engine clean of coolant spray with a rag.

3) Have a buddy start the engine and rev it to 3000 rpm while you watch where the coolant first appears.

4) Fix leak.
 

JaredB

New Member
5+ Year Member
Will try this in the next few days. In the process of packing so not a lot of time on my hands.
 

Gunner

New Member
Registered VIP
Rons way is a good way to test it, since it leaks as bad as you say. If that doesn't work and you have more time check the links in the first post i put up in this thread #3 step by step and pictures should be there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Top