Help in choosing internal actuator

[D16Y6]

Hi mate

I bought turbo kit from ebay long time and it was stock 7psi. Recently I have tryed to adjust the threaded rod so i can rise the boost but actually the rod is long a bit and I did some cutting and welding so i can get short rod. the work was good and i reached to 20 psi but here is my problem, the actuator become very tide and I need to rev until 4500 RPM so the boost can rise. by comparing before shorten the rod, the boost rise faster from 2500 RPM. What I have understand the actuator is been very tide and difficult to rise the boost because the rod of actuator is short.

I have seen in ebay diffrent brands and rod's lenght
How I choose the right actuator (soft to pull) which can reach to 20psi fastlly ?

 

[Jersey8]

20 psi stock?

 

[D16Y6]

20 psi stock?

did i say something wrong

 

[clopezEG]

Hes asking if u have stock internals? Cause if u r ur gonna blow ur motor pretty quik

 

[Blood_Shot]

When you f**k with the actuator rod it throws it all out of wack, lengthening tend to shorten boost response. Im not sure why it does that, maybe something to do with the the fact it has to travel a greater distance? Either way, why did you mess up a good actuator instead of just putting a boost controller on it?

 

[D16Y6]

Hes asking if u have stock internals? Cause if u r ur gonna blow ur motor pretty quik

no its not stock. upgraded block with vitara pistons, apr studs, metal gaskget.


Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

 

[D16Y6]

When you f**k with the actuator rod it throws it all out of wack, lengthening tend to shorten boost response. Im not sure why it does that, maybe something to do with the the fact it has to travel a greater distance? Either way, why did you mess up a good actuator instead of just putting a boost controller on it?

let me tell you why i did that. the stock actuator is cheap ebay item came with the kit. then it was messing the car playing up and down the boost. then i purchased garette actuator and shorten it at max thread but it gave me only 15 psi. for that reason i did the cutting and welding so i can gain more boost. i did used the boost controller but its useless for internal wastegate.

what i need is actuator which can pull boost 20 psi easly and fast. the one i have now is taking time to reach max boost which casue me loosing time between shifting the gears.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

 

[2NRSTV]

The actuator rod shouldn't be messed with. It's primary duty is to transmit movement from the diaphragm to the wastegate. The reason why it's threaded and can be adjusted is so that one actuator can be mounted on different combinations of turbos. Shortening the rod will put undesired stress on the actuator and the wastegate which may lead to cracks on the wastegate orifice and ultimately boost leak.

To get what you are looking for, you need to buy either a boost controller, which will hold pressure until it reaches the psi you dialed in and then send it to the actuator or a new actuator altogether. There's a company called Forge Motorsports that I know makes wastegate actuators that are capable of having the springs swapped.

 

[D16Y6]

The actuator rod shouldn't be messed with. It's primary duty is to transmit movement from the diaphragm to the wastegate. The reason why it's threaded and can be adjusted is so that one actuator can be mounted on different combinations of turbos. Shortening the rod will put undesired stress on the actuator and the wastegate which may lead to cracks on the wastegate orifice and ultimately boost leak.

To get what you are looking for, you need to buy either a boost controller, which will hold pressure until it reaches the psi you dialed in and then send it to the actuator or a new actuator altogether. There's a company called Forge Motorsports that I know makes wastegate actuators that are capable of having the springs swapped.

thank you for your input.

basicly what you tend to say is to i must use boost controller after geting new acuator.

but i have used two different controller and they not increasing the boost. have any reported this before or i did somthing wrong in installing the controller?

in case if i do everything correct, can it rise the boost to 20psi?
i want to clear everything before i make purchase


Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

 

[Jersey8]

let me tell you why i did that. the stock actuator is cheap ebay item came with the kit. then it was messing the car playing up and down the boost. then i purchased garette actuator and shorten it at max thread but it gave me only 15 psi. for that reason i did the cutting and welding so i can gain more boost. i did used the boost controller but its useless for internal wastegate.

what i need is actuator which can pull boost 20 psi easly and fast. the one i have now is taking time to reach max boost which casue me loosing time between shifting the gears.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

what turbo are you using?

 

[D16Y6]

what turbo are you using?

I dont really remeber, its not a brand but its similar to TD04. I think its custome made.
Even though its cheap but I cant deny the fact its good quality and its on my car since 2008 without problems except the actuator.

 

[Jersey8]

I dont really remeber, its not a brand but its similar to TD04. I think its custome made.
Even though its cheap but I cant deny the fact its good quality and its on my car since 2008 without problems except the actuator.

im not asking in regards to quality im asking in regards to size, which can be a determining factor on how fast it spools up, and to what psi. some turbos based on size may not be able to reach 20 psi and still perform

 

[D16Y6]

im not asking in regards to quality im asking in regards to size, which can be a determining factor on how fast it spools up, and to what psi. some turbos based on size may not be able to reach 20 psi and still perform

its custome made exact the size of TD04 turbo. i dont know the size this is far i can know. its claimed in the listing it reach 22psi.


Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

 

[Blood_Shot]

The actuator rod shouldn't be messed with. It's primary duty is to transmit movement from the diaphragm to the wastegate. The reason why it's threaded and can be adjusted is so that one actuator can be mounted on different combinations of turbos. Shortening the rod will put undesired stress on the actuator and the wastegate which may lead to cracks on the wastegate orifice and ultimately boost leak.

To get what you are looking for, you need to buy either a boost controller, which will hold pressure until it reaches the psi you dialed in and then send it to the actuator or a new actuator altogether. There's a company called Forge Motorsports that I know makes wastegate actuators that are capable of having the springs swapped.

He needs to just weld the flapper shut and go external instead of messing with all these actuators.

OP, you keep messing with these actuators and none of them were made to go with your "unknown" turbo, so it is going to be a huge PITA to find one that actually works correctly. Just go external youre going to have better control and probably save time/money in the end.

 

[XpL0d3r]

external wastegate ftw!

 

[D16Y6]

Sorry I want to ccorrect, the lable on the turbo is TD40.

I have my reasons why i prefer internal, its boost faster at 2500RPM than external one. great respone, cheaper and I dont need to buy new headers for external.

anway, I already purchased NXS boost control and I am searching now for the actuator. But I saw varity of acuators in lengths and cracking pressure.

my idea as i have concluded from your input, to buy actuator with length wich is not giving over pressure. what I mean is to buy one like stock, approx 6.2 inch rod+thred. But I need to get more knowledge about Cracking pressure(psi) and open actuator(psi) and rod move(mm)
I have quote this spec from an ebay listing for actuator

•Cracking pressure is at 7 PSI; opened at 10 PSI (rod moved 0.32mm distance point as Garrett standard)

can someone help to explain this in simple words?
what is the max boost can this actuator reach?

 

[Blood_Shot]

it means it starts to open at 7psi and be fully open at 10psi, which means you will be bouncing between 7-10psi

External wastegates are not slower when it comes to building boost, and they dont fluctuate like internal ones do, Im telling you and anyone will the external will be the better route and save you alot of headaches. I dont know what youre thinking is, it isnt faster and cheaper isnt better when it comes to this s**t. There are reasons why nice high HP builds dont run internal gates.

 

[D16Y6]

Thanks for clarifaing FAITHhasME

I have googled and found other turbo applications for example lancer evolution they can adjust the boost by controler to reach higher than 20psi with thier internal wastgate.
Guys please help me with that, I need actuator range from 7psi to 20psi or more

 

[Blood_Shot]

Im not sure about the evo's, the new ones (7,8,9,10) have twin scroll manifolds, I know they are internally gated, hell Im pretty sure you can almost get 20psi out of a 14b when the arm is shortened all the way. You said they used a boost controller probably an MBC. All a ball/spring MBS does if make the pressure go through a stronger spring (in the MBC) before going to the actuator on the turbine housing. So if the MBS is set at 20psi once it sees over 20psi it opens and say your actuator is at 8psi it opens instantly, so you will see 20psi. Even a simple MBC will help spool quicker.

 

[D16Y6]

I am starting to get confuse.

dear,lets assum you are in my place and you would take a decision to by an actuator.

You already bought boost control NXS MBC.
you have turbo TD40.
you want to reach 20psi without shorten the thread alot.
your actuator looks like this in below link
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/T3-T4-Universal-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-45D-10psi-4-Ro_W0QQitemZ380303320381QQcategoryZ33742QQvarZQQcmdZViewItem

what you will select and what you will do to reach 20psi without the problems i mentioned in the first post?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk