Help with crank no start!!

[gantt]

I pulled the head on my 1.5 liter. Had low compression on numbers 3 and 4. Thought I had a timing issue. Belt was approximately 4 teeth off on cam gear. I bought car not running. Took the head to be inspected and had bad seats. No bent valves. So I think this was more of an overheating issue. Head was rebuilt. Engine is in time. I have fuel pressure, spark. Will not fire up. Tried some ether, no luck. Going to re do the compression check now. I don't see any wires loose. Hoses tight. Please give me some help! I put my money in this car and I don't have a back door plan.

OK compression test.
1, 175 psi
2, 165 psi
3, 180 psi
4, 180 psi.
Going to recheck valve lash. I thought maybe I had installed the distributor 180 degrees off, but seems it only fits one way. So I have spark, compression and fuel. It has to be a timing issue. Either camshaft or ignition timing. Timing is on mark. What am I missing here?

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

I haven't pulled a distributor on a d series in a few years, but I swear someone on here had the same issue and swore up and down the dizzy only went in one way. Then they came back and said it was on incorrectly. I don't remember if it was an OEM dizzy or aftermarket.

It could be several other things like a bad ground, bad main relay, bad igniter etc. Sadly enough these things go bad when you do something like a HG replacement 90% of the time. Probably from sitting in one spot for 20 years and being moved around suddenly.

If you are 100% on fuel and ignition, then I would redo the timing and check ignition timing. Then dive into the other potential issues.

 

[gantt]

I redid timing. It could have been one tooth off. Possibly. Pulled the plugs and found the center insulator broken on three plugs. Near the electrode and ground strap. Not sure if it was like that before. Don't remember either way. Picked up a set of basic NGK and will see what's up.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

I would like to see a pic of those old plugs.

 

[gantt]

OK. Will post a few. So engine is wanting to start. Getting a little combustion. Doesn't sound like the firing order is correct. 1342 right?? I can't find a diagram of the plug wire location on the distributor anywhere. Google, mitchell on demand. No where. I got the engine on tdc for number one and marked the rotor location. Should be where number one wire goes. Still acts like its out of ignition time.

I see everything for 1.6 liter. Went and checked my other civic. Wasn't sure if it was the same or not for the different engines.

. These are Bosch iridium's. Around 30,000 miles on the set.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

The firing order is the same for 1.5 and 1.6l d series.

Is the ground electrode pushed down onto the center electrode? It looks like there is no plug gap there dude.

 

[gantt]

I probably dropped that plug. I just pulled the new plugs to check and gap is good on all four. I have the firing order right. Still no go. This thing is killing me. I'm a ford diesel tech. I'm no fool around cars. But damn this is beating my ass.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

If fuel, timing and ignition are 100% then it has to be those other things I mentioned earlier in post #3.

 

[gantt]

Sound like my iacv is humming with ignition on. Never noticed that before on another engine.

 

[gantt]

I don't get it. Nothing is unplugged. Nothing plugged in wrong location. Its getting cold here. Trying to get my winter ride ready. I currently only have a motorcycle. My wife drives our only car.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Did you check everything else I told you?

 

[gantt]

If he ignition module was bad, would I still be getting spark? Grounds are good. If the main relay was bad, I don't think I would be getting spark and fuel. Correct?

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Yeah that s**t is crazy. And no CELS or anything?

http://techauto.tripod.com/

food for thought I guess

 

[gantt]

It doesn't show any codes. My scanner doesn't do the import obd1 I jumped the wires but no codes. I looked it over last night. Looks OK. I think I'm going to mark the belt and gear wheel and move it one tooth both ways and see how it does. The crank pulley I know is in the correct spot. But the cam wheel is not as exact. It looks OK but could possibly be off one tooth. Now my wife's civic started misfiring this morning. Have to look at it on my lunch break. I think I need to stop working on the big trucks and work at a Honda dealer. At least I will get training on Hondas. Then I might be able to keep my ragtag fleet running most of the time.

Thanks for the link. The only reason I feel like the ignition system is OK, is I'm getting spark through the wires. After reading the link you sent me, my tach is inop. Doesn't measure any rpm during crank. I think I need to find a way to test the components. I don't like to throw parts at something without a definite fail or pass. That gets expensive trying to guess.
Any suggestions ??

 

[gantt]

Tested the coil. I'm getting spark directly from the coil. And to all four wires. So its not the coil, cap or button. ICM is OK because I'm getting spark. I tried to move timing forward and backwards one tooth in each direction. Still won't fire off. I'm assuming the PCM is OK, because I'm getting spark and fuel. It would be cutting out one or the other. Or both. Damn I'm ready for this thing to light off!!

 

[gantt]

Isn't there a tone ring of some sorts on the crankshaft behind the crank pulley?? Is it visible from the outside or do I have to remove the lower cover? I am pretty sure I put it back, and I don't see it anywhere. I'm just grasping at anything at this point.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

No idea what you mean by tone ring. Try a new igniter, next thing would be to replace the whole dizzy. Leave the cam timing where it is suppose to be no matter what.

Well, what I would first try...

New Ignitor
Try a different ecu
Try a different dizzy

 

[gantt]

This engine has a crank sensor in the distributor. Obd2 has it on the crank. A tone ring spins with crank and the sensor
Picks up the signal from the ring. I really don't want to trow parts at it. But it looks like a may end up doing just that. I'm going to take the ICM in and have it tested at the parts store. I'm going to bring my dmm home and spec out the coil. Maybe its weak.

 

[Osiris19]

Crank sensor is in the dizzy. The sensor on the oil pump is the CKF, crankshaft fluctuation sensor, which yes, is on OBDII vehicles.
CKF won't cause a no start, it'll just run rough.

 

[gantt]

OK so coil tests 11.30 ohms. A little lower than spec at 12.8 to 19.2. But it seems as if I had a weak coil I would have higher Resistance, thus high ohms measured. Correct? I did notice the wires coming to and from the ICM and coil have cracks in the insulation. I would think this would cause a misfire. I'm getting spark to the wires. Weather it is as strong as it needs to be is unclear.