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How To : Install TEIN EDFC

Discussion in 'Wheels / Tires / Brakes / Suspension DIY How-To's' started by nd4sped, Apr 11, 2005.



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  1. nd4sped

    nd4sped Banned

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2003
    Messages:
    3,232
    Location:
    East Coast.
    For some reason this thread dissapeared. Im sure it was due to the last hack incident. But I did find it on another forum I posted it on.

    Ok guys here is how you install the TEIN EDFC.

    NOTE: If you have a strut tower bar you will either have to buy a new one to clear the motors or modify the bar. If you have a stock strut bar you can cut the flange peice to clear the motor. Thats what Im gonna do for now. Im gonna actually fabricate my own strut tower bar at school. Ill do a HOW TO on that when it comes.

    To have this have to have either the Type Flex or SS w/ UPM.

    This takes a couple of hours if you are doing it alone.

    First disconnect the Negative Battery Termianl to avoid shorting out the EDFC or any other elitrical component.
    [​IMG]

    Now remove rubber boot then the Click Adjuster with the supplied wrench.
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    Next remove the black screw with the supplied allen key.
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    Save all the parts you remove. Just put them in the baggy that the gold screws come in.
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    Use the supplied Grease and apply grease onto (Picture is quite blurry.)
    [​IMG]

    Now screw the gold screw down into the psiton shaft. Make sure that it is flush with the top of the shaft.
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    Remove the rubber boots on the motors.
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    Apply the supplied Thread Lock on the piston shaft threads.
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    Place the motor shaft into the gold screw. It will have a matching hex head to fit the screw. Hold the motor or it will fall out and possibly damage it. The motors are very delicate.
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    Now before screwing the motor onto the piston shaft you have to turn the motor 3 complete times CLOCKWISE.

    Then you can screw the motor onto the shaft until it stops.

    Now make 2 more complete turns on the motor with the flat head screwdriver.

    Then you can torque it down (3 Nm / Hand Tight). Then turn the motor with the screwdriver 1 complete turn counterclockwise and back just to make sure that the motor turns.
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    Now you can replace the boot. Make sure the boot is snug on the motor and you will have 1 done & 3 to go.

    Just repeat the steps 3 more times and you will have them all done.
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    This is what the front will look like when you finish. The motors wont line up exactly so dont be like "WTF".
    [​IMG]

    Now comes the fun part. Routing the cables and splicing the power wires.

    Remove the vacuum bottle to the power sterring to access the hole in the firewall easier to route the cables into the cabin.
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    There is the hole your going to use to route the cables into the cabin. There is another hole on the other side of the firewall but on the inside its block by the A/C/Heating ducting.
    [​IMG]

    Use the radio harness to splice in the Power, Accesory & Illumination wires. There is also a Ground wire. I used a bolt under the center console since the ground wire isnt that long. Plus when you ground you need to groudn to the chassis. Not a subframe peice.
    If you have a aftermarket stereo in then the splicing will be easy. Since you can just splice then wires into the existing splices.
    [​IMG]

    Here it is wired up and it works. WOOT!
    [​IMG]

    Here is the permanent spot.
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    Here are the 3 different settings I saved for when ever am racing or if my family is riding with me. You can change the settings at the touch of a button.
    Setting P1.
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    Setting P2.
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    Setting P3.
    [​IMG]

    Well shes all done. Hope you all enjoy'd.

    P.S. Wont need this anymore. No more manual tuning.
    [​IMG]
     


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