Per request of another use.
I'm not actually removing parts in this HOW TO but I will direct you as to what to take apart to do so with pictures.
First thing first, the tools you will need.
1/2" Breaker Bar, Long 1/2" Ratchet, or 1/2" Impact Gun/
32mm Socket 1/2"
17mm Socket
Pliers
5lb Steel Hammer
Rubber Dead Blow Hammer (optional)
Punch
Small Pry Bar
Pickle Fork
Recommended Replacement parts:
New Cotter Pins
Ball Joint Boots (if you ripe the originals)
Tube of Grease (Take a wild guess, not for masturbastion)
Procedure:
Safety first, never get under a vehicle unless it is properly supported. I'm not talking about your cheap ass scissor jack either. A good set of jack stands (preferred), wooden blocks, etc. ...or and old wheel will work if your poor/broke.
Remove the wheel, set aside. You will need to remove the center axle nut. You can actually do this before you jack up the car if you can access the nut via a center cap, etc. In this case I already had the wheel removed You will need to use a punch and hammer to knock out the indented part of the axle nut so you can remove it. You will need to your impact, breaker bar or whatever and your 32mm socket now. use your dead blow hammer and smack the end of the CV shaft to break it loose for later removal. If it doesnt budge dont sweat it. Apply some lubricant and let it sit.
Next, you need to remove the lower ball joint nut. These nuts are called castle nuts because you use cotter pins to keep them from backing off over time. So use your pliers and remove the cotter. Now use your ratchet or impact plus 17mm socket to move the nut.
Once you have the nut removed you can use your pickle fork to break the ball joint loose from the lower control arm.
NOTE: During reassembly DO NOT use an impact to tighten this nut as your will more than likely strip it out.
This next step is not required but can make moving the spindle around much easier.
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut retaining the tie rod end. Remove castle nut and use your pickle fork again and set your tie rod to the side.
if it looks like mine you should replace the boot.
At this point you should have the knuckle loose. If you didn't get he axle to move back a little earlier try again now. At this point you should be able to remove the axle from the spindle. Set your spindle to the side.
Use your small pry bar (12" at least for leverage" and place it between the axle and transmission case. If its never been removed this might be a pain in the butt the first time around. Because there is a set ring on the axle shaft that locks it into the differential. Keep at it and it WILL eventually pop out.
if you are doing the drivers side axle and are only replacing the axle and not the intermediate shaft as well you can pop the axle out from the intermediate shaft here.
Now if you are replacing the entire drivers side CV shaft assembly as a whole (intermediate included) you will need to remove 3x 14mm bolts that are holding the intermediate shaft carrier bearing in place. This is easiest done with a 3/8" ratchet, 3" extension and 14mm socket.
Once the bolts are removed you can use your pry bar and pop out the axle. If your seal is leaking like mine is (apparently) then now is the prime opportunity to replace it.
OKAY re installation is exactly in reverse of these steps. Remember to not use your impact to tighten up the castle nuts. You will more than likely strip them out if you do. If the ball joint spins while you are trying to tighten the nut, apply pressure to the lower control arm with your jack and them tighten the nut. When you reinstall the axle nut ensure to indent the nut to lock it into place with the axle. This prevents it from back off.
Very importantly replace he cotter pins with new ones or reuse the old ones if they are still in good shape. Cotter pins are cheap people, get new ones.
Reinstall your wheel and torque to 80FT LBS.
I'm not actually removing parts in this HOW TO but I will direct you as to what to take apart to do so with pictures.
First thing first, the tools you will need.
1/2" Breaker Bar, Long 1/2" Ratchet, or 1/2" Impact Gun/
32mm Socket 1/2"
17mm Socket
Pliers
5lb Steel Hammer
Rubber Dead Blow Hammer (optional)
Punch
Small Pry Bar
Pickle Fork
Recommended Replacement parts:
New Cotter Pins
Ball Joint Boots (if you ripe the originals)
Tube of Grease (Take a wild guess, not for masturbastion)
Procedure:
Safety first, never get under a vehicle unless it is properly supported. I'm not talking about your cheap ass scissor jack either. A good set of jack stands (preferred), wooden blocks, etc. ...or and old wheel will work if your poor/broke.
Remove the wheel, set aside. You will need to remove the center axle nut. You can actually do this before you jack up the car if you can access the nut via a center cap, etc. In this case I already had the wheel removed You will need to use a punch and hammer to knock out the indented part of the axle nut so you can remove it. You will need to your impact, breaker bar or whatever and your 32mm socket now. use your dead blow hammer and smack the end of the CV shaft to break it loose for later removal. If it doesnt budge dont sweat it. Apply some lubricant and let it sit.
Next, you need to remove the lower ball joint nut. These nuts are called castle nuts because you use cotter pins to keep them from backing off over time. So use your pliers and remove the cotter. Now use your ratchet or impact plus 17mm socket to move the nut.
Once you have the nut removed you can use your pickle fork to break the ball joint loose from the lower control arm.
NOTE: During reassembly DO NOT use an impact to tighten this nut as your will more than likely strip it out.
This next step is not required but can make moving the spindle around much easier.
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut retaining the tie rod end. Remove castle nut and use your pickle fork again and set your tie rod to the side.
if it looks like mine you should replace the boot.
At this point you should have the knuckle loose. If you didn't get he axle to move back a little earlier try again now. At this point you should be able to remove the axle from the spindle. Set your spindle to the side.
Use your small pry bar (12" at least for leverage" and place it between the axle and transmission case. If its never been removed this might be a pain in the butt the first time around. Because there is a set ring on the axle shaft that locks it into the differential. Keep at it and it WILL eventually pop out.
if you are doing the drivers side axle and are only replacing the axle and not the intermediate shaft as well you can pop the axle out from the intermediate shaft here.
Now if you are replacing the entire drivers side CV shaft assembly as a whole (intermediate included) you will need to remove 3x 14mm bolts that are holding the intermediate shaft carrier bearing in place. This is easiest done with a 3/8" ratchet, 3" extension and 14mm socket.
Once the bolts are removed you can use your pry bar and pop out the axle. If your seal is leaking like mine is (apparently) then now is the prime opportunity to replace it.
OKAY re installation is exactly in reverse of these steps. Remember to not use your impact to tighten up the castle nuts. You will more than likely strip them out if you do. If the ball joint spins while you are trying to tighten the nut, apply pressure to the lower control arm with your jack and them tighten the nut. When you reinstall the axle nut ensure to indent the nut to lock it into place with the axle. This prevents it from back off.
Very importantly replace he cotter pins with new ones or reuse the old ones if they are still in good shape. Cotter pins are cheap people, get new ones.
Reinstall your wheel and torque to 80FT LBS.
