HX 2000: Need advice on buying oxygen sensor and replacing...

[RonJ]

Thanks for that info. If my CEL still comes up after my new o2 sensor, then I'll go buy a test light. Do you recommend any brands/models? Any opinions on this one Equus 3420 Smart Test Light(link)?

The unit at your link is way overpriced. Check at a local Walmart, Sears, Harbor Freight Tools, etc. You should be able to find a basic test light for a fraction of the cost. For the cost of the unit at your link, you could buy an excellent low impedance digital multimeter. Do some comparison shopping at the stores I listed.

And you missed the logic of testing fuse 15. Don't buy the O2 sensor until you are absolutely sure that 7.5A fuse 15 is not blown. Otherwise, you could potentially purchase an expensive sensor unnecessarily. P0135 indicates a problem with the heater element of the sensor, and fuse 15 protects the circuit for the heater element.

 

[RonJ]

After much searching, I found this wiring diagram. This was from a forum post(link)
http://img453.imageshack.us/i/pg2313pgmfikv1.png/

So, for HX CVT(automatic), the o2 sensor is the normal 4 wire version
whereas
for HX Manual the o2 sensor is a wideband 5 wire version.

That should clear up all the confusion.

Correct, except that the HX manual primary O2 sensor is actually a 7-wire sensor.

P0135/P0141 indicates that you have the 4-wire sensor. You would get P1166/P1167 for a 7-wire sensor.

 

[99civiclx]

If you want to test your old sensor, then get an ohm meter and measure between the two black wires on the o2 sensor. If sensor is good should be between 10-40. oxygensensors.com has great deals. I had the same code. I recommend Denso since that is the original equipment.

 

[JulioS]

If you want to test your old sensor, then get an ohm meter and measure between the two black wires on the o2 sensor. If sensor is good should be between 10-40. oxygensensors.com has great deals. I had the same code. I recommend Denso since that is the original equipment.

Thanks for the info. I'm following the steps in the honda service manual pdf.

I unplugged the o2 sensor from the car wire. Taking the plug from the o2 sensor side, I checked the resistance between the two black wires. I did also for the white and green wires(manual says they are supposed to be yellow and white). Both times, the resistance was off the scale. So, it looks like my o2 sensor is definitely busted.

another question, if the ohms were between 10-40, the 2nd step the shop manuals says to test for is continuity between terminals 3 and ground. Repeat for terminals 4 and ground. How does one do this? I'm thinking you take the ohm meter and put one lead on ground and the other ohm meter lead and connect to terminal 3. But that doesn't seem to make much sense to me. Why would there be a continuity between the terminals and ground? I'm guessing they are thinking the terminal 3 or 4 has been damaged and there is no insulation between the inside of the sensor and ground. well, that's probably it.

 

[JulioS]

any tips on removing the o2 sensor?

Got my o2 sensor from amazon today. Disconnected the battery via fuse under the hood. Then Removed the exhaust manifold cover. then attempted to remove the o2 sensor. No luck. Either that or I'm really puny.

I tried for like 1 hour removing it via an adjustable wrench. Length is like 8 inches.

Then busted out some liquid wrench penetrating liquid oil and sprayed the area. Could this stuff damage my o2 sensor? (should I try to wash it off with water, or can I leave it on the 4 way pipe)

Tried again with a 2 handed wrench, its about 1.5 feet in length. still no luck.

I've decided to buy this tool(link)? any other recommendations for an o2 removal tool?

edit: also, how does one use these tools. From the pic, these seem to fit over the o2 sensor. Then I would assume you would place a lever bar on it and turn. But I don't see a lever bar in the product image.

 

[RonJ]

Why did you remove the exhaust manifold? Leaving it in the engine gives you the leverage to break the sensor loose with a breaker bar and sensor socket. You do want to soak the sensor in PB Blaster before trying to break it loose. Just avoid getting the lubricant on any of the new O2 sensor wires.

 

[RonJ]

I unplugged the o2 sensor from the car wire. Taking the plug from the o2 sensor side, I checked the resistance between the two black wires....the resistance was off the scale. So, it looks like my o2 sensor is definitely busted.

What scale of resistance was your multimeter set at? By off scale, do you mean infinite resistance or no resistance?

By the way, you can use your multimeter to test voltage at the two test tabs of 7.5A dash fuse 15.

 

[JulioS]

Why did you remove the exhaust manifold?

I removed the cover. The one that has 2 bolts/nuts on it. I didn't see how one could reach the hex nut without removing it.

Leaving it in the engine gives you the leverage to break the sensor loose with a breaker bar and sensor socket. You do want to soak the sensor in PB Blaster before trying to break it loose. Just avoid getting the lubricant on any of the new O2 sensor wires.

Do I need to remove the liquid wrench or PB blaster oil with water after I'm done with it? Is it ok to leave it on the 4 to 1 flow merger pipes? I'm thinking having an extra layer of oil on these pipes might cause some inefficiency in heat dissipation on these pipes. I don't know if that matters or not.

What scale of resistance was your multimeter set at? By off scale, do you mean infinite resistance or no resistance?
By the way, you can use your multimeter to test voltage at the two test tabs of 7.5A dash fuse 15.

I used the 20M and 2M settings. I got 1.3 for the 20M setting and .8 for the 2M settings. So, I guess the resistance measurements are 1,300,000 ohms and 800,000 ohms.

 

[RonJ]

I removed the cover. The one that has 2 bolts/nuts on it. I didn't see how one could reach the hex nut without removing it.

Haha...my misread. I thought you removed the entire exhaust manifold.

Do I need to remove the liquid wrench or PB blaster oil with water after I'm done with it? Is it ok to leave it on the 4 to 1 flow merger pipes? I'm thinking having an extra layer of oil on these pipes might cause some inefficiency in heat dissipation on these pipes. I don't know if that matters or not.

Just wipe any excess oil away with a clean rag. It won't cause any problems.

I used the 20M and 2M settings. I got 1.3 for the 20M setting and .8 for the 2M settings. So, I guess the resistance measurements are 1,300,000 ohms and 800,000 ohms.

That extremely high resistance is surely the cause of P0135.

 

[CIVIC_VTEC]

Hello all,

I got a check engine light. Went to autozone and bought the $65 OBD-2 scanner. Plugged it in and got error code p0135. This means that something is wrong with either the wiring or the actual oxygen sensor itself that goes before the catalytic converter.

My plan of attack is to...
- Simply reset/erase the code using my $65 scanner and see if the problem goes away. If not....

then

- Buy an oxygen sensor and install it myself or with some inexpensive non-dealer mechanic.

So, my questions are.
1. is there a way to figure out the factory version model/part number of the o2 sensor without looking at the underbelly of the car? This is the one I'd like to get. But if not....

2. Is there any specific brand & models that I should go for? Denso, Replacement, Bosch?

3. Is there any specific features I need to look for in a oxygen sensor. I 'm reading about some sensors requiring splicing. To me, that is too hard. I don't know how to splice wire. I just want to screw/unscrew or plug/unplug stuff. I see some titled "universal", some that are way more expensive than others. Take a look at these
a. Amazon denso $71

and

b. Amazon denso $37

From description they look completely identical. What makes up for the price difference?

What do you think is a fair price to have someone take my amazon purchased o2 sensor and install it.
$50 - $100? I'd imagine they have to lift my car up, remove exhaust manifold heat shield, unscrew/unplug old o2 sensor, rescrew/replug new o2 sensor, install shield, etc....Maybe like 1 hour at most of work.

Thanks. I'm based in San Diego.

if so its the o2 sensor, then 30-50 buck, im a mechanic and it doesnt take long at all, maybe 15- 30 mins. depends on what all you did to the car, like mod wise.

 

[onesikEJ8]

www.oxygensensors.com ... amazing prices, amazing customer service, and amazing shipping

 

[JulioS]

alrighty!

First, thank you to all(RonJ, etc..) who read and replied to this thread. Everything was a success!

No CEL anymore!

my steps I took
1. disconnected battery via fuse under the hood
2. unhooked the wiring of the old o2 sensor
3. removed exhaust manifold cover
4. used 22mm ( 3/4 inches ) o2 sensor removal socket ($9.99 at autozone) with 2 foot breaker arm (rented with $100 deposit at autozone) to remove the o2 sensor. It was still tough. I guess I really do need to work out.
5. pasted some of the included anti-sieve paste on the threads of the new o2 sensor. Got a little bit of this stuff on the sensor part. Did the best I could to remove the anti-sieve from the sensor. Hopefully, this won't affect the life of my o2 sensor.
6. plugged the new o2 sensor back in.
7. Did all the previous steps in reverse.
8. Turned on my car, and WA-LA! No check engine light. I ran the motor for like several minutes just to make sure.


one last question, how does one know when to stop turning? That 2 foot breaker bar gives one a lot of power, I wasn't sure when to stop turning, I didn't want to destroy the threading of the o2 sensor/manifold. So, I probably went 180 degrees past the point where one could turn using your hands. I think that's enough, what do you guys think?

 

[RonJ]

one last question, how does one know when to stop turning? That 2 foot breaker bar gives one a lot of power, I wasn't sure when to stop turning, I didn't want to destroy the threading of the o2 sensor/manifold. So, I probably went 180 degrees past the point where one could turn using your hands. I think that's enough, what do you guys think?

You are probably just fine. Otherwise, you would torque the sensor to 33 lb-ft with a torque wrench.

 

[JulioS]

Sounds good!!!

Ronj, Thanks for all help!!!

 

[Skatefrench]

Correct, except that the HX manual primary O2 sensor is actually a 7-wire sensor.

P0135/P0141 indicates that you have the 4-wire sensor. You would get P1166/P1167 for a 7-wire sensor.

I just wanted to chime in here- I have an 01 Civic HX, manual transmission. The Primary (Upstream) O2 sensor is 4 wire, wideband Lambda sensor, and I just got a P1166 and P1167 code. So it isn't just tied to a 7 wire sensor. It might be tied to having a wideband vs narrow band sensor though?

I know it's an old thread, but I ran across this as I was looking for answers, and just wanted to help anyone who is doing the same.