They told me that they changed the fuel pump and the car started for a bit, but the relay was overheating still and they had to change it too... And they changed the filter because the warranty on the pump wasn't good unless they did... It's over and done with now... Nothing I can do really to change it... Already paid for and the car is back in my possession... Needless to say, I'll never take my car there again... And hopefully, I won't ever have to take my car ANYWHERE.
This is a perfect example of why you want to remain a Club Civic member and visit here often. In retrospect, had you posted your problem here when it happened, nearly any experienced member would have recognized this as a main relay problem. I don't want to make you feel bad, but the actual fix involves buying no new car parts. Instead, the fix is to resolder the main relay. Click here. The job is relatively easy and requires an inexpensive soldering gun and a small amount of solder. This problem is one of the most common for 4th and 5th gen Civics and is caused by a defect in manufacturing. If you ever have another problem, pay us a visit quickly before you start spending more money than you have.
Start here. With the engine off, go to the main fuse box in the engine bay and remove 10A fuse #34 (see below) for about three minutes. This clears codes from the ECU. Then reinsert the fuse and drive the car to see whether the CEL turns on, and if so, whether code 16 repeats. Post the results and also mention whether the engine is experiencing any performance problems.
The fuel pump sends the fuel from the tank through the lines to the injectors. The injectors are what sprays the fuel into the motor.
yeah i know that. but if you think about it in the eyes of a shop wanting to make money they will charge at least 30 mintues for every little thing, especially if they can't get a bolt/screw off/out. plus what if they didn't know it was accessible from the interior? then they would drop the tank like idiots. even if they didn't they probably just tallied up so much extra un-needed things. and i agree those parts are wayyy over priced.
If you look at the contracts, most shops have a minimum charge. ANOTHER thing that one should make sure to look at before having work done.
I see nothing wrong with what you posted. All places buy parts, and then mark them up a certain percentage to make a profit. Did they not give you an estimate?
Did what you said twice... The CEL comes on the second you turn on the car, but now the LED is completely blank. Dunno what that means. The car drives fine, though. The idle seems off, but I might just be overanalyzing.Start here. With the engine off, go to the main fuse box in the engine bay and remove 10A fuse #34 (see below) for about three minutes. This clears codes from the ECU. Then reinsert the fuse and drive the car to see whether the CEL turns on, and if so, whether code 16 repeats. Post the results and also mention whether the engine is experiencing any performance problems.
what LED?
The one that blinks out the code to tell you why the CEL is on...
Just want to make sure I understand what you are saying. The CEL remains on steady while driving but when you look at the LED on the ECU, the LED is off, right? And code 16 is now gone, right?
The OBD0 ECU of 4th generation Civics has an LED that blinks the CEL codes automatically without jumping a service connector or hooking up a scan tool. I don't know why Honda abandoned this convenient system. For later model Civics, I guess they wanted customers to bring their cars to the dealer for diagnosis ($$$).
That's right. CEL stays on when the car is on... Code 16 is gone...
The same one I was pulling to reset the ECU? It's not blown.Start by checking whether the 10A Hazard fuse #34 is blown.
If the fuse is fine, turn the key to ON(II) and check whether the CEL turns on and then off after 2 seconds, or whether it remains on steady. If it remains on steady, then disconnect ECU connector B (middle ECU connector below) and repeat the ON(II) test. Does the CEL still remain on steady?
