RonJ
Banned
See post #55. The LED is built into the ECU itself. Disconnect the middle connector (B) attached to the ECU.I don't know where the ECU is, hence the question. lol
See post #55. The LED is built into the ECU itself. Disconnect the middle connector (B) attached to the ECU.I don't know where the ECU is, hence the question. lol
Got it. The CEL doesn't come on at all with connector B disconnected.See post #55. The LED is built into the ECU itself. Disconnect the middle connector (B) attached to the ECU.
I was afraid you might say that. So basically I need to buy a new ECU? I don't exactly have a spare laying around....The ECU may be bad. Swap in a known good one to see whether the problem goes away.
the toyota dealership i use to work for got there parts from napa and half the mechanics were retarded there pre owned certification consisted of walking around the car and kicking the the tires. so dealerships can be just as bad as any hack job mechanic.We charge $110 per hour at the Toyota dealership. And honestly, I really do recommend dealership work. After my experience with both independent shops and dealerships, the dealers really do turn out some of the best work. I usually do my own work (perks of working where I do) but i almost always buy OEM parts for my Honda :-)
Are you f**king dense man? $300 is not PROFIT. That $300 in labor from doing your fuel pump and main relay is not a direct bottom line. It's not like the guy working on your car pocketed fifteen crisp $20 bills. Take into consideration the following:I don't have the tools to work on my car. Nor the experience. Nor have I ever had a father or an older male influence to teach me anything about cars, sports, etc... Not a sob story, just sayin...
What about the $300 I'm giving them in labor? How much more profit do they want?
I'm a math teacher, not a car junkie. We all have our areas of expertise...
What part about no name calling in the forum did you miss?Are you f**king dense man? $300 is not PROFIT. That $300 in labor from doing your fuel pump and main relay is not a direct bottom line. It's not like the guy working on your car pocketed fifteen crisp $20 bills. Take into consideration the following:
Rent
Insurance
Utilities
Shop Materials
Worker's Salaries / Piece Meal Wages
Licensing
Disposal Fees / Hazmat
Etc, etc etc. It's not a guy standing in a field that used his mind to change your parts. There's a lot of pieces to the puzzle.
And f**k you for playing the 'father figure' card. I lost my dad when I was six years old, and saw him once every other weekend from when I was two years old. That is, if he wasn't drunk. If he was, I wouldn't see him, and I stayed with my grandmother.
And you know what? I can work on cars, pretty well actually. I learned by doing, and I learned by reading. Cars are not some magical mystery. They're straight forward and have instructions. Everything has a specific order and exact measurement -- much like the math you claim you teach.
So suck it up and pick up a wrench next time. On your car, I can probably do a fuel pump and main relay in 30-40 minutes, including the time it takes me to scratch my balls and drink a beer. And pee on the side of the garage.
f**k you're a b***h.
My students have me to teach them how to do it. Yes, they learn by doing, but they also have someone to show them.Uhhh ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh............
I do kind of agree though. My parents got divorced when I was 9, saw my father once a week. He didnt have the money to teach me much of anything about cars. My interest was sparked by my friends. And I learned by doing......how else are you going to learn? When you teach you students a new formula, you walk them through the steps. They are learning by doing. Same thing with your car.
And also doing pretty well at it for someone with little experience.And if you kept reading you'd see I'm troubleshooting my own CEL...right now.
What all has to match up when you buy a replacement ECU? I'm pretty sure the part number is the best bet, but apparently my ECU is rare and expensive haha... Was gonna check first to see how likely a different ECU is to work... I drive an 89 Civic hatch with a 1.5L engine and manual transmission.What can I say? That's where your troubleshooting has taken you. Junk yard? ebay? Parts Wanmted thread?
The type of ECU in your Civic should be printed on it. It will say something like PM5 or PW0, and possibly some other numbers. Post those numbers. You need to get the same ECU for a manual transmission not an automatic transmission.What all has to match up when you buy a replacement ECU? I'm pretty sure the part number is the best bet, but apparently my ECU is rare and expensive haha... Was gonna check first to see how likely a different ECU is to work... I drive an 89 Civic hatch with a 1.5L engine and manual transmission.
PM5 A180The type of ECU in your Civic should be printed on it. It will say something like PM5 or PW0, and possibly some other numbers. Post those numbers. You need to get the same ECU for a manual transmission not an automatic transmission.
That's exactly the ECU you want to shop for. Below is one eBay listing, though I would scout junk yards first.PM5 A180
I actually put a bid in on that one just before you posted that... He accepted... Hope this fixes my issues.That's exactly the ECU you want to shop for. Below is one eBay listing, though I would scout junk yards first.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-91-Honda-Civic-CRX-ECU-EEM-Computer-37820-PM5-A180-/150416769542?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230589c206
Me, too...good luck with the new ECU. Hope that solves the code problem.